My “New” Rupp Enduro

#1
Hi folks. I recently bought a (I think) 1970 Rupp Enduro from a friend. It’s pretty complete, but it is missing the seat and does need some work. He bought a lighting coil/flywheel for the Tecumseh HS40 it has, so I will likely run lights; and a bunch of small parts, like brake levers, grips, etc. It does run, but only on starting fluid, as some carb parts haven’t come in yet. It has a Tecumseh diaphragm carb on it.

Unfortunately I can’t post pictures at the moment, I will try later.
 
#8
Cool find.

If you plan to restore it, check out Rick Cattens: Windber 20th anniversary Reunion build. @chatten63

Rick describes how he was able to clean up the Rupp sticker, to like new condition, and reapply it.
 
#10
Cool find.

If you plan to restore it, check out Rick Cattens: Windber 20th anniversary Reunion build. @chatten63

Rick describes how he was able to clean up the Rupp sticker, to like new condition, and reapply it.
Hey again...not sure why it won't let me edit my previous post...but I misspelled Rick's last name...it is spelled Chatten.
 
#13
Does anyone know what the output for the lighting coil should be? I’m only getting 2.4 volts under throttle and a little over 1 at idle. And yes, I am using the AC setting on my multimeter, hooking up a working 12v bulb only gave my a very dim glow under throttle.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#14
2000rpm 6v
3000 8v
3600 10v

you need a good ground on the engine and that is going to be the voltage at each lead coming off the charge coils (2 of the three wires are powered separately the third is the kill wire on that era engine.
 
#15
Ok, thanks. I took the lighting coil off to inspect it and didn’t see anything obviously wrong, so I’ll bolt it back up and test each lead individually, he suggested the two stator coils are out of phase and are canceling each other out. If I get half the suggested voltage from each lead then his theory is correct. The lighting coil is a rebuilt unit, by the way, so it is plausible the rebuilder switched the polarity of the windings not knowing it could have an effect.
 
#17
So testing between each individual lead to ground, I got 5.6 volts! So one of the stator coils are out of phase. Just waiting on the seller to reply to my friend so I can hopefully get this remedied.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#18
So testing between each individual lead to ground, I got 5.6 volts! So one of the stator coils are out of phase. Just waiting on the seller to reply to my friend so I can hopefully get this remedied.
your not hooking the wires together are you? they are both power out and you ground to the bike frame (or engine block) can sorta kinda see that in this vid I did of a test run of a lighted HS40 from a fox I rebuilt. Ground to block and midway I am switching the + lead to test both outputs. Typically one went to the headlight/running light and one went to the brake light on MB application.

 
#19
your not hooking the wires together are you? they are both power out and you ground to the bike frame (or engine block) can sorta kinda see that in this vid I did of a test run of a lighted HS40 from a fox I rebuilt. Ground to block and midway I am switching the + lead to test both outputs. Typically one went to the headlight/running light and one went to the brake light on MB application.

Oh. Well durp. I guess that means it’s working correctly. Yeah, I thought both wires were supposed to be connected.
 
#20
Thanks for the video and explanation. I was used to both the wires having AC output between them like my Kohler-equipped minibike. Everything’s working fine, then!
 

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