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Steve73

Active Member
#4
I guess my question is what’s the plug for? Kill switch maybe? Thank you..
Nevermind I think its for a light. I have no experience with these higher hp tecumseh engines only the smaller ones. So its a learning curve. Well its time to resurrect the old dune cycle build I guess. Lol.. Thank you.
 

Cuda54

Active Member
#10
I have one in my TRI-ROD but I need to get a battery mount on it to use the electric start. Nice find I bought mine new many years ago for about $400.
 

Cuda54

Active Member
#13
You need the battery one if you are riding and shut it off. There may not be any where to use the wall plug one. I save the starter switch out of a old lawn tractor that had a Tech motor in it. And I kept the starter solenoid too. It is not hard to hook the switch up to them. And I have a wheel chair deep cycle battery in my Harley I has a 93 Stroker kit. I want to use one of them in my TRI-ROD as it small and is a gel cell so no acid to spill. Steve73 you will be happier with the battery one jump on anywhere and hit the key and go and no cords. I saw a guy blowing snow and he had the extension cord still plugged in trailing behind it. The blower would plug and he would shut it off to clean it out then start it and go again.
 

Steve73

Active Member
#14
You need the battery one if you are riding and shut it off. There may not be any where to use the wall plug one. I save the starter switch out of a old lawn tractor that had a Tech motor in it. And I kept the starter solenoid too. It is not hard to hook the switch up to them. And I have a wheel chair deep cycle battery in my Harley I has a 93 Stroker kit. I want to use one of them in my TRI-ROD as it small and is a gel cell so no acid to spill. Steve73 you will be happier with the battery one jump on anywhere and hit the key and go and no cords. I saw a guy blowing snow and he had the extension cord still plugged in trailing behind it. The blower would plug and he would shut it off to clean it out then start it and go again.
I will listen and go with the battery. I was look in my service manual and matching the power out plug I think the engine I picked up might already have dc out. Instead of a.c.? I guess I could just check on my meter.. Duh.
 

Steve73

Active Member
#15
looking at the engine wires coming out is both red and green. anyone have experience knowing what these mean?
20200627_205109.jpg
looking at these color codes its easy to figure out.
tecumseh engine wires.PNG
Just wondering if anyone has experience building a charging system for these? New experience for me with this one.. Thank you for any help.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#16
That should be a #611113 3 amp DC alternator with that plug. but to verify I would use you engines model number and look up the alternator to be positive. At the plug is should put out at min 8v @2500rpm-11.5 v (DC) @3600rpm on the red wire and green is the ground to the coil. If you pull back the casing and test before the diode that drops it and converts it from AC to DC it should be about 18v @2500-26v @3600rpms (AC) They were intended to go to 12v battery without a regulator, that setup wasnt really used for lighting, it was just intended to keep the start battery up and charged.
 

Steve73

Active Member
#17
That should be a #611113 3 amp DC alternator with that plug. but to verify I would use you engines model number and look up the alternator to be positive. At the plug is should put out at min 8v @2500rpm-11.5 v (DC) @3600rpm on the red wire and green is the ground to the coil. If you pull back the casing and test before the diode that drops it and converts it from AC to DC it should be about 18v @2500-26v @3600rpms (AC) They were intended to go to 12v battery without a regulator, that setup wasnt really used for lighting, it was just intended to keep the start battery up and charged.
That's very helpful thank you. I will look up the model number today. I would like to keep the start battery charged while running and 1 light hopefully...
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#18
That's very helpful thank you. I will look up the model number today. I would like to keep the start battery charged while running and 1 light hopefully...
I think if you have a strong enough battery and a using a light thats not pulling much juice that is not in use all the time you can probably pull it off......you have the recoil to fall back on at least. for ones with lighting but no rectifier or regulator in the system they would use a 611104 alternator, wich was a 3 amp DC (for the charging, and a 5amp AC wire for the lighting. but from what I have seen they were usually always paired with a 5 magnet flywheel and yours is probably only 3 magnets so not a strong a field.

I have basically the same 3amp DC alternator/flywheel/ and 12v starter sitting here right now that you have on yours. I just pulled it all off a 10hp craftsman/murray 30" rider mower that was getting scrapped, was planning on stealing the magnets and alternator for a smaller engine conversion, but I have spare magnets and parts right now already.
 

Steve73

Active Member
#19
I think if you have a strong enough battery and a using a light thats not pulling much juice that is not in use all the time you can probably pull it off......you have the recoil to fall back on at least. for ones with lighting but no rectifier or regulator in the system they would use a 611104 alternator, wich was a 3 amp DC (for the charging, and a 5amp AC wire for the lighting. but from what I have seen they were usually always paired with a 5 magnet flywheel and yours is probably only 3 magnets so not a strong a field.

I have basically the same 3amp DC alternator/flywheel/ and 12v starter sitting here right now that you have on yours. I just pulled it all off a 10hp craftsman/murray 30" rider mower that was getting scrapped, was planning on stealing the magnets and alternator for a smaller engine conversion, but I have spare magnets and parts right now already.
I have a small led light that operates within a range of 10 to 24v dc that I'm going to use. I went out to see my engines model number this is what I found.
20200628_105846.jpg
I'm not very experienced in decoding these numbers...
20200628_110215.jpg
20200628_110132.jpg
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#20
So with those numbers it shows as being a 7 amp regulator (under shroud unit), So that will make things really simple! So it was intended to run light and charge battery. Most of the time the regulator was external on these so these newer versions can get confusing ust dont blow it out, they show as NLA regulators!!!! heres the intended wiring schematic

IMG_2083.JPG
 

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