Oil Drain Hose

T

Tug

Member
#1
#1
The “Drainzit” drain hoses are a great idea but shouldn’t cost $20.

I have googled until I’m blind but can’t seem to find a barbed hose fitting with M10x1.25 threads for the oil drains in Hondas/Clones.

Source, anyone?

Thanks,
Don
 
S

SAT

#5
#5
Metal lathe, a M10x1.25 die and a chunk of hex rod. You might be close to $20 in the die and material, depending if you had to pay shipping as well.
 
EVOL Tweety Bird

EVOL Tweety Bird

Active Member
#6
#6
Could do like we do on our race car. Remove drain plug, drill hole through it. Then either tap for a fitting, or weld a bung to it.

Add a piece of rubber tubing, and a cheap lawn mower in line fuel shut off and you have a quick drain.
 
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H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#7
#7
EVOL Tweety Bird said:
Could do like we do on our race car. Remove drain plug, drill hole through it. Then either tap for a fitting, or weld a bung to it.
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10mm too small to tap and adapt for oil drain. Might as well drill and tap for larger NPT, and use a hardware store adapter down to 1/4" barbed fitting. About a five minute job.

Your comment reminded me of 100% chance of failure of banjo fitting threads on SR20DET turbo oil line if you remove it. Bad place to run a helicoil with engine installed. On subsequent engine swaps, we just went ahead and replaced the threads before installing the engine.
 
T

Tug

Member
#8
#8
Havasu Dave said:
Drill and tap for SAE?

Also, copper tubing/parts are available in that size, (brake line parts) but you might as well spring for the $25 system.

Here is the only barbed fitting I could find, and it's in Great Britain and with shipping is about $20, which again makes the $25 system look pretty good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M10x1-25-M...IL-Straight-Oil-Fitting-Adapter-/272049995006
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You’re a stud for having tried to assist in the search, and I thank you. I also saw that very part on eBay and came to the same conclusions.
 
T

Tug

Member
#9
#9
EVOL Tweety Bird said:
Could do like we do on our race car. Remove drain plug, drill hole through it. Then either tap for a fitting, or weld a bung to it.

Add a piece of rubber tubing, and a cheap lawn mower in line fuel shut off and you have a quick drain.
Click to expand...
Thought about drilling it like u mention. May end up there. Thanks for the assist.


Also, there are M10x1.25 threaded fuel on/off valves available, but I figured they would drain pretty slowly.
 
T

Tug

Member
#10
#10
Havasu Dave said:
10mm too small to tap and adapt for oil drain. Might as well drill and tap for larger NPT, and use a hardware store adapter down to 1/4" barbed fitting. About a five minute job.

Your comment reminded me of 100% chance of failure of banjo fitting threads on SR20DET turbo oil line if you remove it. Bad place to run a helicoil with engine installed. On subsequent engine swaps, we just went ahead and replaced the threads before installing the engine.
Click to expand...
Seems like drilling and tapping the case would introduce metal internally, and I’d rather not open the case. Too much trouble at this point. Thanks for the idea though.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#11
#11
Tug said:
Seems like drilling and tapping the case would introduce metal internally, and I’d rather not open the case. Too much trouble at this point. Thanks for the idea though.
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Did you see the link to the M10X1.25 fitting I posted?

In the example I cited above, the engine was in place where a helicoil was required. I used axle grease and a shop vac and went slow. This pulled out the shavings. In your case, from what I just read in another post about modifying these engines, they come from the factory with metal shavings, so the savvy builder has to first wash out the crank case with soap and water anyway. Just saying.
 
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T

Tug

Member
#14
#14
Thanks.

I guess that’s an option, but the exit hole is gonna be mighty small by that point. There are 10x1.25 fuel shutoffs that might work with similar exit hole dia...considering that as an option as well but it has the same issue. Not a total show stopper, its a consideration.
 
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