oil in head

W

wbilotta

New Member
#1
#1
I noticed today some oil was accumulating around the head gasket and the exhaust gasket so I pulled the head and found oil. It looks like the head gasket (.025 aluminum) is not sealing a small area near the valve area. So now I'm trying to determine if the valve guides are the problem or the rings are letting the oil get into the head. There is oil around the perimeter of the cylinder bore and when I rotate the piston up an down the rings are pushing the accumlated oil to the top of the bore and then the oil slowly starts sliding back down.

I examined the valve stems and both are dry. I'm guessing the exhaust valve stem would always be dry since the exhaust would burn off any oil that was leaking past the valve guide ?

When the valves are open there is some play side to side. I'm not sure how tight they should be. Could the guides be the culprit ? Is there a way to check to see if the rings are the problem without pulling the piston out ?

The engine is a briggs 5hp #130202.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
TT

TT

#2
#2
I am no Briggs expert. However, it's two posibilities.

Rings or valve guides.

Put a feeler guage in between the piston and the bore and give us a reading?
How many thousanths?

Then buy both, guides and rings and a gasket, you good to go. Search briggs gasket set.... or go to lawn mower shop and replace all three items. $20.00 guess..

TT


hfguierhgohregheroghroghorgriohgoreiejgoirjgo;rjgrqjgiorjgoijrgiojrigjrigjriojgroi :doah:
 
bandit 40

bandit 40

Active Member
#3
#3
wbilotta said:
I noticed today some oil was accumulating around the head gasket and the exhaust gasket so I pulled the head and found oil. It looks like the head gasket (.025 aluminum) is not sealing a small area near the valve area. So now I'm trying to determine if the valve guides are the problem or the rings are letting the oil get into the head. There is oil around the perimeter of the cylinder bore and when I rotate the piston up an down the rings are pushing the accumlated oil to the top of the bore and then the oil slowly starts sliding back down.

I examined the valve stems and both are dry. I'm guessing the exhaust valve stem would always be dry since the exhaust would burn off any oil that was leaking past the valve guide ?

When the valves are open there is some play side to side. I'm not sure how tight they should be. Could the guides be the culprit ? Is there a way to check to see if the rings are the problem without pulling the piston out ?

The engine is a briggs 5hp #130202.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Click to expand...
You could put on a head gasket and get a compression check, but if you have oil in the top half your most likely gonna need rings for sure, did this engine smoke ?? that is a good sign of bad rings, pull the piston , lightly hone the cylinder , re ring the piston,pull clean and lap the valves or replace them....:smile:
 
S

stubbysteve

Member
#4
#4
I would have to say rings too.... but instead of having the cyclinder bored, get a set of 5 or 10 thousandths over rings and file them to fit the cyclinder.
saves you from having the cyclinder bored.
 
W

wbilotta

New Member
#5
#5
Since this is an aluminum bore I read that I have to use chrome ring sets and do not deglaze the cylinder ? I've found oversized std. rings but not chrome.

How do I know if the rings are worn out or if the cylinder is ? I'm new to working on engines so pardon the newbie questions.
 
Last edited:
bandit 40

bandit 40

Active Member
#6
#6
wbilotta said:
Since this is an aluminum bore I read that I have to use chrome ring sets and do not deglaze the cylinder ? I've found oversized std. rings but not chrome.

How do I know if the rings are worn out or if the cylinder is ? I'm new to working on engines so pardon the newbie questions.
Click to expand...
Well you mentioned that there was oil up top, already that's a sign, and if its an older engine with regular ware and tear and lots of hours check to see if there is piston slop meaning side to side movement . And as long as there is no deep scratches that can catch your finger nail, you might like I previously mentioned be able to lightly hone out the cylinder ,without boring.With all that a factor You still might get away with std rings, depending on the wear.:smile:
 
W

wbilotta

New Member
#7
#7
bandit 40 said:
Well you mentioned that there was oil up top, already that's a sign, and if its an older engine with regular ware and tear and lots of hours check to see if there is piston slop meaning side to side movement . And as long as there is no deep scratches that can catch your finger nail, you might like I previously mentioned be able to lightly hone out the cylinder ,without boring.With all that a factor You still might get away with std rings, depending on the wear.:smile:
Click to expand...
I checked the piston slop and it's tight, no play that I can feel. I think I'm gonna give the std. chrome rings a shot. The book says they're good for .005 overbore so we'll see what happens. Worst case, I'm out $15.00 and the engine has new rings.
 
TT

TT

#8
#8
If there is no piston slop and a 5 thousants feeler gauge will not fit it's the valve guides for sure, the exaust can be replaced as well, then it;s tiem for calve seating or lapping..
 
J

jimh

#9
#9
But this is a flathed, so you would think there would have to be a lot of blow-by in the cylinder to pressure the crank case enough to force oil up through the valve guides. On OHV engines it can just run down through worn guides. It's always a good idea pull the valves to check the slop in the guides when doing a ring job anyway though.
 
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