Paint info?

#1
I'm not looking for a professional paint job for my minibike. I want to do it at home, but I have a question or two about it. What is the best way to strip the old paint off? Is there a certain product or procedure that would do this the best way? Also, is it a general practice to use clear coat on minibikes after painting? What is the best paint to use?

Thanks,

Joe
 

Hent

New Member
#2
Wilby,

I hate stripping paint (ask viki, she hates it too!) - Depending on how many coats, how much time you have and money you want to spend there are a few options.

You can get it sand blasted (check your area for prices), which is probably the cleanest and easiest way. You bring it there with crappy paint, and pick it up nice and clean with no paint!

Or, if you have the room/time/money you could buy your own sandblaster (i bought a pressurized one from harbor freight for about $80? + the media, i forget how much - but I also did a go-kart with it).

Another option is to buy actual paint stripper - this is more wallet friendly, but time consuming and a pain in the ass, to say the least. It does work, but you'll probably have to wire wheel some of the paint/rust off.

Brandt (RuppParts) suggested dousing it in gas and lighting it on fire, haven't tried that one yet but will on the next one! Sounds like a lot of fun, actually...

As far as the clear coat goes, I think that depends on what kind of finish you want, and what kind of painter you are. Most people go for the powder coating option as it's not too expensive, looks good and lasts long.

I spray bombed my columbia bike with Rustoleum professional cans, and two people thought that I had it powder coated... I didn't use a clear coat on it either. Just sprayed it really wet!

When we painted Viki's go-kart, someone had suggested using a arcylic urethane paint - (Westhane) and I think it turned out pretty well. It was a two-part deal, and I think the quart of it was $40 and maybe another $40 for the activator (which is good for up to a gallon so I still have some left.

You do need to spray it really wet again to get a nice finish, and there is no clear cloat needed. It has a pretty tought finish to it so it doesn't chip as easily.

I'm sure some other people can help decide which direction for you to go in with this project, but this is just my two cents :)

 
#3
I have a sandblaster at work AND furnaces to bake the paint on if I choose to. Also, I can put it in one of the furnaces to bake the paint off and then wire brush it to get the excess off of it. I am weighing my options as to what I am going to do. I do appreciate your input, Hent! :)

Joe
 
#5
Paint update

I got all of the paint off and down to bare metal today! I took it to work and baked it in the furnace @ 500* for 45 minutes and then put it in the wheelabrator to smooth the metal. It looks good. The only rust on the bike came off in the wheelabrator. There wasn't any deep-down rust. I was amazed to see the metal spot free when I brought it out of the furnace.

More to come,

Joe
 
#8
You will want to sand the bare metal with a 80 to 180 gritt paper for good adhesision before priming. 80 if you are using a primer filler, a little finer gritt if you are using a straight primer.
 
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