PMR Jackshaft kit for the Warrior

[noseoil]

Look at the Hot Rod Minibike web page & look at what's available. They make them for different models & are really helpful when explaining how things are set up. Their web page is pretty good at showing what you can get.
Jackshaft Systems

 

[delray]

getting closer.........:thumbsup:
what was the distance to get to 60mph. had to be quite abit.
don't forget to repack them bearings soon. i notes when i was buiding my briggs baja bike the factory bearing had very little grease in them....... might need a helmet.

 

[noseoil]

Delray, the speed run was done for about a little more than 1/2 mile I guess. I use the same stretch of road each time & then duck into the desert at a different gate, to get back on state trust land again. It's a road leading to an airport, out a ways from civilization so there isn't too much traffic ever & I have the pavement to myself usually. Only real problem is the posted 50 mph speed limit, which isn't quite enough at this point. I do ride with a helmet & jacket on this stuff.

Appreciate the tip on wheel bearings. When I took things apart yesterday to change the jackshaft to a lower gear, I noticed the rear axle was a bit loose (nuts were loose on both sides?), so I'm wondering if I have fried bearings, or if I can just repack them. They spin well enough, but I don't know how long the axle was loose since, I've ridden a fair amount at this position on the rear wheel, been over a month I think. The PMR jackshaft is very good for changing gear ratios, fairly quick & easy. I got the "black" spring installed yesterday on the max torque clutch along with the 20t sprocket, so it's time to do more testing on jetting & see how it feels this way. Should be a better pull now with slightly less top end, which is fine with me. Spring's rated at 3000-3100 rpm, which should be much better.

Does anyone know if there are "better" bearings out there for these axles, or is it some bastard metric size which has to come over on a slow boat from China? Might be a good idea to just replace them at some point, if I can find some that are better at high speeds. I haven't had them out ever, so not even sure if they can be repacked or not. Are they automotive bearings, or just the sealed type?

 

[FOMOGO]

Appreciate the tip on wheel bearings. When I took things apart yesterday to change the jackshaft to a lower gear, I noticed the rear axle was a bit loose (nuts were loose on both sides?), so I'm wondering if I have fried bearings, or if I can just repack them. They spin well enough, but I don't know how long the axle was loose since, I've ridden a fair amount at this position on the rear wheel, been over a month I think.

Does anyone know if there are "better" bearings out there for these axles, or is it some bastard metric size which has to come over on a slow boat from China? Might be a good idea to just replace them at some point, if I can find some that are better at high speeds. I haven't had them out ever, so not even sure if they can be repacked or not. Are they automotive bearings, or just the sealed type?

The wheel bearings are sealed. You cant pack them. But you can replace them with a better bearing. I bought these for mine.

SKF Bearings #6202 2RSJEM https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr....TRS4&_nkw=SKF+,Bearings#6202+2RSJEM&_sacat=0

As far as play goes the assembly is a stack up. Between the bearings is a solid spacer that is just a tube. It is a snug fit between the bearings when they are installed. Then outside the bearings are the spacers and then the frame. You should have the axle nuts tight enough that there is zero end play. The load is carried by the bearings inner race. So effectively this becomes a solid piece between the frame. IF you have play it should be the bearing that is loose and allows the wheel to rock side to side. If the axle is properly tightened then there should be no play. If you have play it has to be the bearings.

So make sure your axle is correctly tightened and then check the wheel for play. That should get you back on the road.

Doug

 

[noseoil]

Thanks Doug, I've ordered new bearings just to be sure, but didn't go with the C3 type, just the normal SKF sealed bearings. The C3 bearings are for added heat, so I figured I didn't need the extra "slop" they are made with for a high heat environment. It's Tucson, but not Death Valley, so the tolerances don't need to be that loose. The normal ones will take the load & relatively light rpms a mini bike tire turns & should be ok to use.

Did you use a drift pin to get them out & a socket to tap the new ones back in place? Thinking that's all I will really need to do to put in a new set.

 

[FOMOGO]

I pressed mine in. I used a piece of 3/8'' round rod to lever the bearing spacer to the side just enough to use the same rod to drive the opposite bearing out. Not a lot of press fit to them. Just enough to hold them in place.

Doug

>>>The extra play is worth a full mph on the big end<<<< :anon.sml:

 

[delray]

FOMOGO

The wheel bearings are sealed. You cant pack them

actually you can with a small pointed tool or a dental tool. once you get under the seal you can work it loose and then pop it off and repack it with some good automotive bearing gease. but for noseoil bike ,maybe what he is getting will be better for the long haul.....

 

[FOMOGO]

FOMOGO
actually you can with a small pointed tool or a dental tool. once you get under the seal you can work it loose and then pop it off and repack it with some good automotive bearing gease. but for noseoil bike ,maybe what he is getting will be better for the long haul.....

Oh I know what you mean Delray but to me if its out I would rather put back a USA made bearing and not look back.

Doug

 

[delray]

I would rather put back a USA made bearing and not look back.

yes i am with you....:thumbsup:
i remember years ago seeing small taper bearing(repack/grease) on the front wheels of a old go kart. but i can't remember if they where on a 5/8 shaft or 3/4.........?

 

[noseoil]

Decided 60 mph was "too much" of a good thing, so I changed the gearing a bit (20t at the jackshaft now) & slowed it down a bit. It's fun to ride, but 60 on the dirt & pavement is more than I needed. Topping out now at about 55, but I don't have too many places to go that fast. It's pulling very well now & broken in where it seems to be running plenty strong. The Mikuni was a PITA at first, but it's running well enough now that it's dialed in. Still lots to learn, but having a good time with it.

Here's something I saw out in the desert yesterday on my ride, a new build & beautiful job by Skip. About 800 hp & 2500 pounds, fairly insane ride in the dirt...