Predator exhaust pipe for a Murray

#1
All,

I've been searching on here extensively and haven't really found a solution..? I have just installed a Predator 212 on my Murray and I can not find an exhaust pipe that will fit without some modification ( i.e. BENDING the Tube) I tried to make a couple of exhaust pipes fit that I have but I'm unable to get them to bend significantly to clear the Seat Shock and Frame.

Honestly I have never tried to bend 1" tubing like this before and I'm having zero luck. Anyone have any suggestions..?

If I buy the tubing and the flange I could try and make a custom one...but I don't have a tube bender....???? So...I'm looking for any DIY help I can get.

Thanks
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#3
All,

I've been searching on here extensively and haven't really found a solution..? I have just installed a Predator 212 on my Murray and I can not find an exhaust pipe that will fit without some modification ( i.e. BENDING the Tube) I tried to make a couple of exhaust pipes fit that I have but I'm unable to get them to bend significantly to clear the Seat Shock and Frame.

Honestly I have never tried to bend 1" tubing like this before and I'm having zero luck. Anyone have any suggestions..?

If I buy the tubing and the flange I could try and make a custom one...but I don't have a tube bender....???? So...I'm looking for any DIY help I can get.

Thanks
I' am retired Mechanic/ fabricator /welder.
I have taken pipes in the past & packed them ''real good'' with sand, & then plug off the ends.
Make sure the flange is clamped in a vise solid, then heat the area, areas in question with a Rose bud torch tip, past where you want to modify a bend, or bends.
You have to be ''very careful'' not to put to much force with doing this, just steady pressure while running the heat back & forth ect. & take your time...
Let the pipe cool naturally also.
Ian
 
#4
Buy one or more mandrel bends, cut the header you have and add bent sections to piece together something that works for you. A couple of 45 degree bends should jog the pipe over to clear, but to minimize cost, you could buy one 180 degree bend and cut multiple sections from it to snake the pipe around however you want. If you are not equipped to weld it together, mock it up, mark the joints in alignment, take it to a welder, have it tacked together, install header to be sure it's what you want, then have it welded. Mocking it up would be the tricky part if you can't tack as you go; one solution would be epoxy putty (KBS Coatings sells the best epoxy putty I've ever used); stick 3 evenly spaced blobs of putty on first joint and allow it to cure, move to second joint and repeat, etc. When all joints are done, they can be tack welded between the blobs of epoxy (keep the epoxy blobs small to allow space for tacking). After tacking, the epoxy can be sanded off and the joints finish welded.

Here is one source for mandrel bent tubing sections; there are many others.
Mild Steel - 16 Gauge Mandrel Bends
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#5
Have you tried the JTW Fabrication ones sold off of that famous auction site?

It’s a simple side pipe; an elbow design but he can add a 3/4” NPT adapter to handle the ubiquitous sausage muffler.

I have one and need to buy a few more. Great quality.
 
#6
OldMiniBikes 8" under seat header works perfect but you will have to heat and take some bend out and it will easily clear the shock on the right side !
 
#7
It can be a bit of a pain making a pipe fit. On my T Bird/Predator swap I took a stock header, cut into I think 5 or 6 pieces to get the correct fit, taped the pieces together and marked them for alignment. Stopped at the local cycle shop and had them weld it back together.
hemi evol tweety bird.jpg
 
Top