Raptor 3 salvage
- Thread starter Thepaetsguy
- Start date
The carburetor was worked over by someone who knew what they were doing and knew how they wanted it. Hogged out with a good bit of epoxy work.
No throttle blade screw is puzzling. And that billet reach around knob on the mixture adjustment screw is neat.
I installed the carburetor onto a new tank and salvaged the redneck sticker also for the new tank because I couldn‘t find a duplicate.
No throttle blade screw is puzzling. And that billet reach around knob on the mixture adjustment screw is neat.
I installed the carburetor onto a new tank and salvaged the redneck sticker also for the new tank because I couldn‘t find a duplicate.
The 3hp clements flywheel hits 4 non drilled/tapped posts sticking off the engine block itself. I need to grind these posts flush to the block tomorrow and install the flywheel coil etc..
I started bolting stuff together in a haste to clean up and organize not loose bolts and such. Do people still wake up at 5AM?? I was gonna say good night but two hours... I guess I should say good morning.
I started bolting stuff together in a haste to clean up and organize not loose bolts and such. Do people still wake up at 5AM?? I was gonna say good night but two hours... I guess I should say good morning.
I’m gonna finish up this one and use it for a second engine on the kart.
If either engine gives me problem‘s I’ll take them both off the kart and start searching around for a couple kohlers to swap on.
Even with upgraded hardware and some kind of lock thread keeping things from vibrating loose from a 5hp tiller block is tough for me..
No matter what setup I end up with I always have this feeling somethings gonna vibrate loose and fall off the block and cause problems. More often then not I’m right... It’s getting frustrating. It’s 5hp Briggs specifically.. Never any trouble with the kohlers.
If either engine gives me problem‘s I’ll take them both off the kart and start searching around for a couple kohlers to swap on.
Even with upgraded hardware and some kind of lock thread keeping things from vibrating loose from a 5hp tiller block is tough for me..
No matter what setup I end up with I always have this feeling somethings gonna vibrate loose and fall off the block and cause problems. More often then not I’m right... It’s getting frustrating. It’s 5hp Briggs specifically.. Never any trouble with the kohlers.
Briggs listened to racers having problems and I guess the raptor was there answer.
They beefed up the lifter bores and made the block thicker. the 3 bolt head and all the threads were steel insert. 4 different brackets on top of all that to keep it from shaking loose. That’s of course using the eBay safety wire bolts.
I don’t think the balance was part of it. They just brute forced there way into having a racing 5hp that doesn’t vibrate apart. Dang worn out tiller blocks with already failing bolt threads are HORRIBLE..
They beefed up the lifter bores and made the block thicker. the 3 bolt head and all the threads were steel insert. 4 different brackets on top of all that to keep it from shaking loose. That’s of course using the eBay safety wire bolts.
I don’t think the balance was part of it. They just brute forced there way into having a racing 5hp that doesn’t vibrate apart. Dang worn out tiller blocks with already failing bolt threads are HORRIBLE..
Before I put the 3hp clements flywheel on the engine this thread is about I mocked it up on the duel bearing engine.
4.5 rod and Horstman cam matching piston.
I was able to have the duel bearing block repaired local. I have a clements head and flywheel. Now i’m on the hunt for one of his sidecovers to make a triple bearing block.
4.5 rod and Horstman cam matching piston.
I was able to have the duel bearing block repaired local. I have a clements head and flywheel. Now i’m on the hunt for one of his sidecovers to make a triple bearing block.
I don’t know actually. Maybe I’m wrong but I believe you can buy actual stroker cranks for 5hp’s from ARC
I found while assembling everything the wiseco piston is for a shorter rod. I had milled the block eyebrows before I figured that out. The top compression ring nearly leaves the bore entirely near the eyebrow area. I know next time not to mill till I measure some stuff beforehand. But no trouble so far
If I had somehow got ahold of an actual stroker crank I for sure would of needed a shorter piston or rod. The piston hit the head without a gasket installed. Didn’t hit with one installed. If any of the 5hp’s I use give me trouble I’m giving up on them.. The kohlers just don’t die..
I found while assembling everything the wiseco piston is for a shorter rod. I had milled the block eyebrows before I figured that out. The top compression ring nearly leaves the bore entirely near the eyebrow area. I know next time not to mill till I measure some stuff beforehand. But no trouble so far
If I had somehow got ahold of an actual stroker crank I for sure would of needed a shorter piston or rod. The piston hit the head without a gasket installed. Didn’t hit with one installed. If any of the 5hp’s I use give me trouble I’m giving up on them.. The kohlers just don’t die..
Two small posts on the ignition coil body need ground off to fit the bracket.
Non tapped posts need cut from the block to clear the some 3hp flywheels. The exhausts I used have a file to fit bolt pattern.
A lot of work and it shakes the tank loose.. The exhaust falls off. Then the threads in the block are trashed.. raptors used steel insert threads and brackets but used a crap rod that breaks and wrecks the block. They failed that task successfully.
Non tapped posts need cut from the block to clear the some 3hp flywheels. The exhausts I used have a file to fit bolt pattern.
A lot of work and it shakes the tank loose.. The exhaust falls off. Then the threads in the block are trashed.. raptors used steel insert threads and brackets but used a crap rod that breaks and wrecks the block. They failed that task successfully.