Rear wheel locked up while riding

Mini Bike & Go-Kart Parts

#1
I was riding today and bike was jerking and then the rear wheel locked up. I had to put in suv to take it back. I cannot even walk the bike. The wheel moves an inch and then it is totally locked up. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be wrong?

I am suspecting it is either chain, sprocket, or a brake.

For sprocket what is the number of a tooth required?
 

Steve73

Active Member
#2
I was riding today and bike was jerking and then the rear wheel locked up. I had to put in suv to take it back. I cannot even walk the bike. The wheel moves an inch and then it is totally locked up. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be wrong?

I am suspecting it is either chain, sprocket, or a brake.

For sprocket what is the number of a tooth required?
Did you check your wheel bearings yet?
 
#3
Will do it today or later? Will have to raise the bike and check.

btw like your quote when life throws a wrench, you tighten your nuts.
 
#8
It was the belt stuck.
I wonder if that is just a freak occurence, or is it a quality issue, or maybe an issue with fitment?
At least you know what the problem is now.

Edit to add...Routine maintenance to my TC shows my included belt is starting to fray as well, I'll take this thread as a warning.
I must note that I need to realign my flat plates, because I switched around the spacer for the chain drive gear, I may have to either add a spacer to the driver pulley to match alignment to the driven, or switch the spacer of the driven back and live with a chain that is not centered on the wheel sprocket.
 
Last edited:
#9
I wonder if that is just a freak occurence, or is it a quality issue, or maybe an issue with fitment?
At least you know what the problem is now.

Edit to add...Routine maintenance to my TC shows my included belt is starting to fray as well, I'll take this thread as a warning.
I ......................
Seems I have to buy some additional shim washers for the driver and a lower profile lock nut for the driven.
I think that maybe the fraying is due to your flat plates not in alignment?
 

Harquebus

Active Member
#11
Are you guys running USA-made TAVs with USA-made belts or Chinesium/Chinesium?

I've heard the former is good to go in every respect of course (GO USA!) and the latter is a gamble.
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#12
Are you guys running USA-made TAVs with USA-made belts or Chinesium/Chinesium?

I've heard the former is good to go in every respect of course (GO USA!) and the latter is a gamble.
I'm running both. I have 3 comet units running. 2 Chinese. I've seen no reason to pay extra for the comet units. I have 2 branded black horse racing. Paid 89.00 for 2 kits off Amazon. They have been flawless.

Everyone I've talked to that had trouble with the Chinese made tavs have no idea what they are doing. They post pictures wondering why their belt shredded and the sheaves are a 1/2" out of alignment.

I do get better life using real comet belts. My Chinese belt went about 50 hours. I'm past that now with the comet belt.
 

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