RLV OK to weld with 6018 or 7018?

[FatBuddyCat]

Have a 1 inch silencer and a pipe but no clamp. A couple hose clamps to squeeze it and weld it? I'm running a 200 Amp dc stick on 110. I can lay down 6013 or 7018. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks guys.

 

[desert rat]

6013 is a dig rod/ fast freeze (gap fill). 7018 is a fill rod. 60,000 pound first pass 70,000 pound second pass. that's how we did it in the construction field. If you have cad plating you want to use the 13 rod , stay out of the smoke.

 

[DaddyJohn]

I'd think a stick would burn through an exhaust pipe, being that they're usually pretty thin wall.

If the ID of the silencer slips over the pipe, maybe cut a couple slots 180 degrees from each other and clamp it there.
Welding a mounting tab on the silencer to bolt it to the chassis and keep it from rocking would help too, if feasible.

You also might consider a t-bolt clamp instead of a worm gear clamp, as you should be able to get a bit more squeeze.

 

[FatBuddyCat]

I'd think a stick would burn through an exhaust pipe, being that they're usually pretty thin wall.

If the ID of the silencer slips over the pipe, maybe cut a couple slots 180 degrees from each other and clamp it there.
Welding a mounting tab on the silencer to bolt it to the chassis and keep it from rocking would help too, if feasible.

You also might consider a t-bolt clamp instead of a worm gear clamp, as you should be able to get a bit more squeeze.

I welded it on using 6013 DCEP roots and 7018 fillets. I'm running that Amico 200 Pro with hot start at 80 amps 110. It blew threw the muffler material in one little spot but 7018 covered it right up. I'm just glad I didn't go full retard with 6011 and melt the thing!