Slotting the engine mounting plate

[Aircooled]

Hi guys,

Just have a quick question. I'm getting ready to mount a Predator 212 to my bike. Of course it will entail drilling 4-holes in the plate...or the other option would be the aluminum adapter plate...but would like to save a few scheckles. I'd like to keep the engine mounting adjustable.

What method would be the best for cutting slots into the mounting plate? I don't own a plasma cutter. I'd like to do it as clean and neatly as possible. Cutoff wheel perhaps? Rotary burrs?
I'd like to hear what method(s) you guys used, or suggest.

Thank you! Love this forum.

Jack

 

[jeffe]

I drilled holes where I wanted the ends of the slots and used a .040 cutting wheel join the holes. My cutting wheel was pretty worn out (smaller diameter ) so maybe it was easier to control. Turned out nice.

 

[Aircooled]

Thanks Jeff,
That seems like the easiest and most sensible way to do.
Thank you, I appreciate your input.

 

[chipper]

Also you can drill 3-4 3/8" holes in a row and use a bur bit on a,20000rpm Dewalt and vlean them up rather easily too !

 

[jeep2003]

Yeah I drill the two ends and a dremel cut off wheel to connect them and clean it up with a file. If you want them longer you can do 3 holes and connect them but make sure they are far enough apart or your drill bit will bind up and you will end up having to grind it all. Burr bits work good too but they dont turn out quite as nice

 

[Aircooled]

Thank you guys!
I appreciate your suggestions and valued input.
Now to make sure I have a decent drill bit to carry out the task....and some new grinding stones to clean things up.

 

[jdogg]

I've used a metal blade on a jig saw to join the holes before.

 

[Raskin]

Hey..just be careful lining up chain..engine squared .. I would probably spray paint or use qtip to mark where first holes to be drilled ..good luck

 

[creia]

Yeah I drill the two ends and a dremel cut off wheel to connect them and clean it up with a file. If you want them longer you can do 3 holes and connect them but make sure they are far enough apart or your drill bit will bind up and you will end up having to grind it all. Burr bits work good too but they dont turn out quite as nice

This is the technique my son and I use. Take your time and you can end up with a nice job.
Michael

 

[Aircooled]

Once again, thank you gentlemen for all your great ideas. I'll probably end up using a combination of all your ideas. I don't know why I hadn't thought of some of them...again I truly appreciate all your input. Two heads are better than one...the more heads the better.

Muchas gracias, senors. :smile:

 

[Taco Loco Joe]

I suggest you do a couple practice slots on some scrap metal and see what works the best. I would use a Unibit (step drill) then join the 2 holes with a jig saw.

 

[Aircooled]

I suggest you do a couple practice slots on some scrap metal and see what works the best. I would use a Unibit (step drill) then join the 2 holes with a jig saw.

Thanks Loco Joe,
I was actually thinking about getting a Unibit drill. I agree, practicing on a piece of scrap metal is a good idea.
Thanks again for your suggestion.

 

[JKautoFab]

I skipped the slotted holes when i installed an OHH tecumseh on a DB30. just used a chain tensioner instead. its a cop out sure but no loosening engine to adjust chain!

 

[Aircooled]

I skipped the slotted holes when i installed an OHH tecumseh on a DB30. just used a chain tensioner instead. its a cop out sure but no loosening engine to adjust chain!

Hey, it's not a cop out at all. You just wanted to keep it simple...nothing wrong with that method. I like to be able to have some adjustment flexibility between the slotted, or elongated holes, and the chain tensioner. First thing is to make sure the sprockets are aligned...then start drilling holes...:thumbsup: