I thought I had purchased an HS50, its was clean, ran good as new, no smoke, and had a 5/8 shaft. My clutch fits right on, but for some reason fills the MTD frame, and hangs out on the right side a long ways. So I looked and its an H60. I cant seem to find the correct 2 stroke Tecumseh, and I think this one probably has more power, but my question is RPM. does anyone know what RPM the original 2 stroke hit full torque, and do I need to adjust the weights to accommodate the lower rpm range of the 4 stroke? I think I may need to change the front sprocket, as this giant rear sprocket may not allow for any top speed. I don't have any clues of the rpm ranges of either, but I am willing to bet the h60 is max torqued at 1800 rpm, while the 2 stroke is likely only hitting the power band at 2500 plus. Any place to find the specs for these engines?
You have a Tec H60 with a 5/8 crank??? 
Ohhhhh lets say it's a correct clutch that came on a two stroke minibike engine..
It may be supposedly set at a higher rpm engage speed, but if it is, you probably won't notice much.. If ya crank the motor on real slow you may be able to say, the kind of a high idle, and yet I'm not moving.. But it won't be long before ya DO start moving..
I used one of those clutches on the jackshaft of a minibike, that came from a SNOW BLOWER, .. It was geared one to one with the motor, and it was a big ole Tec 8 horse..
and it worked fine... :shrug: The clutch HATED IT as it's not meant for all that, but it worked like you'd expect it to.. :shrug:
If they go together, run em.. :shrug:
The gears might be a little low, but it's probably not much lower than any other minibike.. The two stroke bikes just go faster top end.. :laugh: It might be the lower minibike gears, but it is minibike gears, not tractor gears, ya know? Try it and see how ya like it..
Ohhhhh lets say it's a correct clutch that came on a two stroke minibike engine..
It may be supposedly set at a higher rpm engage speed, but if it is, you probably won't notice much.. If ya crank the motor on real slow you may be able to say, the kind of a high idle, and yet I'm not moving.. But it won't be long before ya DO start moving..
I used one of those clutches on the jackshaft of a minibike, that came from a SNOW BLOWER, .. It was geared one to one with the motor, and it was a big ole Tec 8 horse..
and it worked fine... :shrug: The clutch HATED IT as it's not meant for all that, but it worked like you'd expect it to.. :shrug:
If they go together, run em.. :shrug:
The gears might be a little low, but it's probably not much lower than any other minibike.. The two stroke bikes just go faster top end.. :laugh: It might be the lower minibike gears, but it is minibike gears, not tractor gears, ya know? Try it and see how ya like it..
Well its really a torque convertor, not a clutch and yes I was shocked to see the reduced crank on this H60. the crank is why I bought it, my convertor fit. I would expect a 1 inch crank. It may actually be a 3/4, I never measured it, I just thought all the 5hp used the same 5/8 shaft. My belt cover bolted right on, and all I need to do is make the stock exhaust work on the 6 hp 4 stroke. I would love to find the original engine.
the h60 is probably governed at around 1800 rpm, and I am sure that 2 stroke closer to 6000. I know for a fact this 4 stroke will not spin that torque convertor closed at 1800 rpm, as there is no way on earth that 2 stroke is near full power at 1800. I would almost guarantee the bike will not go more then 10 mph. We rode it with a 5 hp briggs on it, and we could not get near 10 mph. So there it sets. Even if I doctored the front clutch, the rear is road speed dependent, and its not possible to spin it fast enough. Yes the 5 hp ran rough due to carb issues, but it was still a dog. sometimes it ran good, and it was around walking speed.
I will hook the cable up and try it I guess.
I will hook the cable up and try it I guess.
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The H60 should turn 3,600 So should the briggs.. 6,000 is like everything in the world those little AH engines are even GOOD FOR.. they make they're power like 4,000.. The rest is ringy-dingy rpms...
Those clutches are supposed to move smoothly.. If they are working rite, and you turn that driver clutch 3,600 rpms.. Something should VERY WELL BETTER happen...ut:
ESPECIALLY 3,600 backed by and 8 pound iron flywheel.. :doah:
The rear clutch has springs.. If the front clutch is spun to speed, the rear clutch HAS NO CHOICE but to open... :shrug:
If you have and engine that runs like shit, at 1,800 rpms.. it doesn't have enough POWER to get the system in motion..
When the driver starts to tighten.. IT WILL start pulling and start tightening..
A worn belt will cause chatter and no speed..
a lack of any rpms and power will cause you to not get moving... :shrug:
AT THE VERY WORST you just have to buy lower speed springs for your driver clutch...They are all the same clutches.. :shrug:
If you have 12 or 15 inch wheels, a tav system, and Tec big block, going 10 MPH, you are doing it wrong..
So should the briggs.. 6,000 is like everything in the world those little AH engines are even GOOD FOR.. they make they're power like 4,000.. The rest is ringy-dingy rpms... Those clutches are supposed to move smoothly.. If they are working rite, and you turn that driver clutch 3,600 rpms.. Something should VERY WELL BETTER happen...
ut:ESPECIALLY 3,600 backed by and 8 pound iron flywheel.. :doah:
The rear clutch has springs.. If the front clutch is spun to speed, the rear clutch HAS NO CHOICE but to open... :shrug:
If you have and engine that runs like shit, at 1,800 rpms.. it doesn't have enough POWER to get the system in motion..
When the driver starts to tighten.. IT WILL start pulling and start tightening..
A worn belt will cause chatter and no speed..
a lack of any rpms and power will cause you to not get moving... :shrug:
AT THE VERY WORST you just have to buy lower speed springs for your driver clutch...They are all the same clutches.. :shrug:
If you have 12 or 15 inch wheels, a tav system, and Tec big block, going 10 MPH, you are doing it wrong..