Tecumseh Timing

[Ruppster81]

How are you guy's timing your tecumseh engines? I have the tecumseh handbook and it look's like you need some special tool's to do it. Any easier way's to go about it? I should also note the "timing" info I need is for the coil/stator assembly not the cam timing.

 

[joshhoward]

Hey Ruppster

Is this an old points system? If so there should be marks Ware the bolts where. And just put it back in the same place. Thats what i do. But you can do some trial and error there isnt much adjustment. Brandt will have a better answer.


Josh

 

[minibikekid]

I know for 5hp briggs the timing should be set at 8 thousands of an inch between the coil and the flywheel. If tecumseh isnt the same it should be really close. You use a filler gauge to do this. Its a really inexpensive tool and handy for doing this. Not sure if this helps but i hope it does!

 

[Ruppster81]

joshhoward - I'll have to go look at the old coil and see if the marks are there, I hope! :thumbsup:

minibikekid - Your correct on the briggs part but the older tecumseh has the coil assembly underneath the flywheel on a pivot.

 

[RuppParts]

Ruppster.........what engine are you timing? is a going to have stock carb and muffler? Many things contribute to what timing an engine will run best at.........exhaust, load, induction, gearing etc. You do have an engine with points???

 

[Ruppster81]

Ruppster.........what engine are you timing? is a going to have stock carb and muffler? Many things contribute to what timing an engine will run best at.........exhaust, load, induction, gearing etc. You do have an engine with points???

It's going on my roadster 2 which will be stock exhaust and carb/intake setup. It is a point/cond ignition but I am putting an electronic module in it's place. The engine is a early to mid 70's? tecumseh HS40.

 

[RuppParts]

if your going to use the module..........timing is not req'd.........be prepared for running problems with the modules..........I have heard more BAD than good about them. Timing is CRITICAL and with the module, you have no timing adjustments. Points and condensor are so simple..don't create yourself a headache with that module. The module will NOT increase spark......no matter what you have read or been told, spark is created by the ignition coil which you will reuse. New genuine Tecumseh points and condensors are cheaper than those troublesome modules too. So many point ignition systems have been talked bad about due to using inferior aftermarket parts. Your engine/bike/project will only be as good as the parts you use.

 

[philip metzner]

im with brandt on this one. dont make a problem you dont need at least untill you have the engine running like its supposed to and you have a base line to go by. there are alot of timing differences between modules, and you wont have control over it. on your magnito it can be rotated to change timing, but, there is a thing called edge distance. edge distance is the relationship between the nagneto and the flywheel magnets. if you were to advance the timeing by rotating the mag, then the edge distance is screwed up and your spark can be week or not at all. if you cant set it back where it was, then there is a procedure useing a dial indicator and degree wheel. i had it in a book but i cant find it. what you want to do is set a new set of points real accuratly, then time the mag so that the points break at the proper distance before top center of piston travel.-phil

 

[Ruppster81]

Great info on the modules! I had used them on brigg's with no problems but this isn't a briggs lol.

Now that the module is out of the question I'm back to the original question.... if I put new points and condenser in how do I get everything timed correctly? I have no doubt with a bit of adjusting I can get the motor to run and time it by ear?

 

[RuppParts]

Ruppster, adjust your points to .020 then........rotate engine backwards from TDC. Measure piston to deck surface. The distance you want is .035. Once there, rotate the mag until points break, tighten mag....reassemble and go ride!

 

[Bushman]

I learned a trick a long time ago. I tear 2 pieces from a standard business card. I then place a piece between each arm of the coil and the magnet on the flywheel. I tighten the coil bolts and rotate the flywheel to remove the pieces of paper. I have never had an engine fail to start. This has always worked with a stock engine. If I remember correctly a business card is about .020 thick. I suppose if working with a high performance engine you might want to more precise with your air gap.