Torque Converter Help

#1
Hi all - I put up a video of my torque converter for my Speedway Shrike - can you take a look at comment here or on YT to tell me if it looks like everything is complete with the tc and any other insights you have on it. I know the belt has a rip in it and I hear you can't get these belts. The diameter of the driven pulley is 5", not 6" and I know Speedway did not use Comet. Any help is greatly appreciated! Here is link to video:
 
#2
I know its a DynaTorque 400 set up and it's like you can't find anything or any parts for them. I'd love to run the original set up, really need the right belt.
 

joshua. c.

Well-Known Member
#3
that looks like a 5/8ths wide symmetrical the web site go kart supply carry's belts for that size. just measure the center to center distances of your clutches and check they're belt sizes page. They should have something close enough to work as long as the driven is a 6 inch. if not wallow the motor mount holes out to move the engine enough to make a size they have work.
 
#4
that looks like a 5/8ths wide symmetrical the web site go kart supply carry's belts for that size. just measure the center to center distances of your clutches and check they're belt sizes page. They should have something close enough to work as long as the driven is a 6 inch. if not wallow the motor mount holes out to move the engine enough to make a size they have work.
Thanks. Driven is unfortunately a 5" Does anyone make anything to fit that?
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#6
There are no good replacements belts on Speedways with original torque converters and 5" drivens 5/8" wide. This is why I always move to a more conventional (and easy to get parts) 6" driven comet system with a 3/4" belt. it does require some work, but it's is SO worth it. The larger the driven unit, the more efficient the power goes to the wheels. It is a huge difference running a 6" driven Comet system over the original 5" driven system. Also the 3/4" wide belt really helps too. Personally I use the comet clone system, which is pretty economical.

You can read up on this at www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/speedwayinfo.htm#repair

I had a Shrike with a 6" comet clone system and a Tecumseh h35 engine. and frankly, it kicked pretty good! I mean you can mess around with that 5" system, but you will just never get any performance from it. And parts, forget it. Better off starting over with a 6" comet system. That's been my experience at least. And that link above on the GoKartSupply web page DOES NOT work for 5" driven units! the 5" units use a completely different and shorter belt than 6" or 7" systems (which is what is documented on that above GoKartSupply web page.) So none of those center-to-center measurements will work on a 5" driven Cat99 system.

http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedway_shrike14.jpg
 
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#7
There are no good replacements belts on Speedways with original torque converters and 5" drivens 5/8" wide. This is why I always move to a more conventional (and easy to get parts) 6" driven comet system with a 3/4" belt. it does require some work,
Thanks so much - that was my fear, actually, as I'm trying to keep this stock. At 240 lbs I don't think anything is going to propel me too fast. The old belt measures about 25" long, outside circumference. I wonder if there are any belts for other purposes that may work.

Aside from that, the set up I have appears to be complete, no?
 
#9
before I new were to get proper belts for my go kart I just went to an automotive store and bought generic green automotive belts of the correct width and length. they did work but wore out more quickly then a proper belt.
That's what I've been thinking. The original belt measures about 25" or so in length, outside circumference. Here's an interesting question - how easy or hard is it to get the belt on the driven shaft?
 

joshua. c.

Well-Known Member
#10
since its built in I'd say you would need to partly disassemble the jackshaft and pull it out of the way to install it. see if you can pull the snap ring on the converter side and slide the shaft out the other side a bit. you just need enough room to get the belt threw. if that doesn't work you may have to pull the clutch off.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#11
Taking off/apart an original Speedway jackshaft/driven TC unit is a nightmare. AGAIN, i'm telling you, abandon this unit. I make a new jackshaft and use a comet clone driven with a new 3/4" belt. I can actually service and disassembly the entire assembly in minutes. and the increase in performance is genuine. you're wasting your time trying to use the original assembly.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#13
the stock 5" system is just bad and you can't get parts, or even a belt. if you want to ride this bike, you need to update it to the 6" comet (clone). i have a hell of a time getting original jackshaft/driven units off speedways. most of the time i end up just cutting them off unfortunately. but i will say in the few times i have gotten the originals off, i have saved them... and traded them to Lam for other parts! ha! but seriously who wants parts for system that you can't buy a new belt? and a system that really barely works anyway.

The belt situation is the major buzz kill. i guess you could change to a 6" comet driven and use the original speedway drive. but then you have to modify the comet to use a 5/8" belt. with a 6" driven you can get a Cat99 (5/8") belt. but to me not worth it, so i got comet for the drive and driven with a 3/4" belt.
 
#14
the stock 5" system is just bad and you can't get parts, or even a belt. if you want to ride this bike, you need to update it to the 6" comet (clone). i have a hell of a time getting original jackshaft/driven units off speedways. most of the time i end up just cutting them off unfortunately. but i will say in the few times i have gotten the originals off, i have saved them... and traded them to Lam for other parts! ha! but seriously who wants parts for system that you can't buy a new belt? and a system that really barely works anyway.

The belt situation is the major buzz kill. i guess you could change to a 6" comet driven and use the original speedway drive. but then you have to modify the comet to use a 5/8" belt. with a 6" driven you can get a Cat99 (5/8") belt. but to me not worth it, so i got comet for the drive and driven with a 3/4" belt.
I hear and appreciate what you're saying. Here's a few questions:

1. The very nice and informational pinterest repair page says you need to do some cutting on the engine mount plate to account for the move to a 6" - is that true, because, if so, then that's a permanent change.

2. Also, it looks like the bearings are secured with a set screw, or is that a pin that needs to be drilled out?

3. I assume the nice chrome cover still fits over the comet pulley on the engine shaft?

4. One other question - I have the 6" set up that Speedway went to on their pricier models - a whole thing with the jackshaft, the bearings, everything, so I do have a ready to go 6" driven system I can use.
 
#15
since its built in I'd say you would need to partly disassemble the jackshaft and pull it out of the way to install it. see if you can pull the snap ring on the converter side and slide the shaft out the other side a bit. you just need enough room to get the belt threw. if that doesn't work you may have to pull the clutch off.
Thanks. If I put a 1/2" wide belt that has the right length as opposed to a 5/8"belt that fits, will the converter still work?
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#16
If you install a 1/2 inch belt the engagement will be really high rpm. You’ll have no low end power. And basically the bike will suck. Will it work? Kind of

and yes you will have to do some gentle caressing to get a comet 6 inch driven to work. The stock clutch guard will fit, no problem there. The good news is the slight cutting to the motor plate you can’t even see because it’s more or less underneath the motor. See my picture below
C457F240-81B9-4CB9-91A2-8C559EEE46D3.jpeg
 
#17
If you install a 1/2 inch belt the engagement will be really high rpm. You’ll have no low end power. And basically the bike will suck. Will it work? Kind of

and yes you will have to do some gentle caressing to get a comet 6 inch driven to work. The stock clutch guard will fit, no problem there. The good news is the slight cutting to the motor plate you can’t even see because it’s more or less underneath the motor. See my picture below
Thanks for all your help. I see what you mean, it would have to rev really high before it engages, I get it. Since I have all the parts I guess I should do it. Or, should I say, pay someone who knows what they are doing help me make the conversion. The driven shaft I have now has the 6" pulley on a shaft with all the fixins, including the correct size bearings, provided the pricier models that used the 6" have a similar plate width, which I believe they do.
 
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