Where to start on new project

ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#1
#1
I traded for this Heathkit Boonie Bike. And I got a couple of engines from the same guy.
The main issues are the bends in the frame and how to put on brakes. I am just trying to make it drive and be safe. No concerns about being original. It's pretty far gone, but I want to bring it back to life.
What would you guys do about the bends/repairs in the top bars? Leave them alone? Cut out the bars and just weld new ones in and live with the look of the repairs?
As far as brakes anyone got any idea how to put brakes on this. I'm thinking of not building a jack shaft and swap the sprocket to the left side.
So some pictures so you can see what I'm working with.
T 20211022_135804.jpg 20211022_135809.jpg 20211022_140535.jpg 20211022_140540.jpg 20211026_192233.jpg 20211022_135827.jpg
 
ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#2
#2
The 212 runs and I have a bad one to get all the parts off of.
The 8 hp B&S he said runs. But I'm not sure exactly what is messed with the recoil. To me it seems this part should spin backwards but it is locked solid and not sure exactly how to take it apart. Or something has to free spin to be able to run after you start it. 20211103_215216.jpg
 
D

desert rat

Well-Known Member
#3
#3
Frame is completely fixable and the right welder can make the repairs disappear. What is on the other side of that rear rim? Just a side note I am looking for that same 8 hp motor if you don't use it.
 
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toomanytoys

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#4
#4
what are you drive system plans? Clutch or TAV?

If a clutch you could use a clutch band brake. They work great, but obviously fail if the chain falls off...!
 
ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#5
#5
The 212 has a 10 tooth clutch with it looks like 410 chain. The rear tire is 16.5 inches and 46 tooth sprocket.
I Also have this TAV with a 9 tooth sprocket. I dont have a belt for the TAV or any chains.
For ease of brakes I might do the clutch and clutch brake. 20211104_110445.jpg 20211104_110457.jpg 20211104_110503.jpg 20211104_110543.jpg 20211104_110643.jpg
 
bikesisbikes

bikesisbikes

#7
#7
The Briggs part you question is the recoil clutch. They are cheap to replace. Inside, are ball bearings and slots for them to drop into. When you pull the cord, to engage the clutch, the balls fall into the slots and lock the whole unit. Once it spins, they fall out of the slots and free up the unit. A new one would be less than $20. To remove it, you have many choices. There is a special tool, designed for just that task. ORRRR, you could do one of the many forms of the same thing, so many people do. Use a firring strip, or other soft wood, to lock the fan. Use another block of wood, flat blade screwdriver, chisel, or whatever, to tap the clutch housing counterclockwise. It will only take a couple taps to break it free enough to loosen by hand.
 
ole4

ole4

#8
#8
I've fixed frames much worse than that. You can cut out and replace the one frame rail that is bent. You do need to find a competent welder and also you can insert a inside sleeve where you are going to attach the new piece of straight tube. The inside sleeve will have to be free to move inside and you can drill a small hole in the tube to push the sleeve into the other end so it covers the cut. Hope that makes sense. This is a old rupp that had the back loop cut off, and i replaced it. I dont have pics of the inside sleeves but they are inside the tube and strengthen the joint and help hole it in place for welding. You can see after sanding you do not even see the welds.
 

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ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#9
#9
I was stressing the butt welding in new tubes on the frame. The little trick of putting a smaller tube inside to give something to weld to makes it a lot easier, and not a butt weld. Both sides are bent. So both will get replaced.
I think I found new flange bearings to put the forks on with. At the very least I know what search terms to use.
 
ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#13
#13
First day off and trying to get something done on this thing.
First issue I have a #50 rear sprocket, and 420 chain and clutch.
And the spacer for the sprocket is a homebuilt piece that is not centered very well it look like.
Are there any modern bikes with a rear tire that will fit my 9 3/8" frame? My tire is about 16 1/2" tall. Not quite sure where to start searching for new parts, but need to get something figured out and ordered tomorrow if possible.
And a picture of my wheel. It looks like it was a 3 bolt pattern that got modified into a 4 bolt pattern. 20211111_194109.jpg 20211111_205432.jpg
 
ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#14
#14
Well, this bikes repairs went past the point of no return today.
I had to cut a chunk out so I could get the right size tubing to repair it. I got 5' of the closest thing the steel store had.
And I got a 72 tooth sprocket from my buddy that he pulled off of his bike. Not really the ratio I was looking for but it fits my chain without waiting to order it. Now to build an adapter plate to make it work. 20211112_121835.jpg
 
ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#15
#15
So I was trying to do this last winter, before Jr came out to visit at Thanksgiving.
Newsflash: It didn't get done. But has been spread around my shop ever since.
I ordered some bushings from McMaster, I think, to replace the worn ones in the stem, last fall. They been bouncing around the shop too.
Of course they didn't have the exact size I needed. So I got some with the correct center hole and turned them down on my drill press.
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This is how I did it. Don't try this at home!
I had to grind the corners off the nuts so they could be used to kinda center the bushings on the bolt. Then I used a grinder with a cut off wheel while the drill press was on to get it close. Then a file to get it finished up. I had to take off like .060". It's not very accurate, but close enough for this project.
It worked and its the first time I've had the forks properly on this bike.
I also welded in the replacement tubes I bought last fall. I could not find the exact size at the metal shop. I got the closest they had and put it in.
20220527_231320.jpg
I'll be trying to figure out a way to attach a sprocket and brakes next. Probably going to have to do a clutch brake. I don't see any other options really.
 
ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#16
#16
So my buddy Jonny came over today and we made a new plan. I'm going to order a new rear wheel and use 35 chain. The wheel I found is set up for disc brakes so I'll have to build a bracket for the caliper. I have 2 hydraulic brake set-ups. I ordered one and it never showed up, so they sent another.
 
ChromeBikeGuy

ChromeBikeGuy

#18
#18
2old2care said:
Front fork looks like it needs a little straightening.
Click to expand...
So I can obviously just manually bend the forks back into a straightish shape. How well does that work? Will they just bend backwards easier next time? Anyone done it and kept them straight? Would adding a strongback on them help?

No I am not going to try to find another set that is straight and pay top dollar for them. I'll fix what I have.
 
2old2care

2old2care

Active Member
#20
#20
I think most people just bend them back cold - Yours don't look half as bad as some examples .
They were likely originally bent by crashing into something, so if you can avoid that in the future, you should be fine :~)
 
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