Who’s the powell experts….

Skipp

Skipp

#61
#61
So as I trudge on searching and scraping for info on powells I found a guy to finally give me the specs on the shifter pad that’s mounted on the top of a c model frame…..I will attempt to make one….. IMG_6176.jpeg
Using a slab from a roll of industrial belt from the plant…. IMG_6177.jpeg
we got this templet….its supposed to be 9/16” thick…,I’m going 3/4 because my belt is a tad thinner I’m putting a piece of 1/16” mild steel cut to pattern…. IMG_6179.jpeg
Then cut out another piece of rubber and bind it together with industrial adhesive….we’ll see if it works…they say they wear out we’re trying to stop thst….this is what one should resemble…. IMG_6387.jpeg
I’ll post finished product in a day or two….
 
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Skipp

Skipp

#62
#62
So our good friend @Itype2slo was kind enough to give me this templet….pretty cool huh…
IMG_6228.jpeg
so once I got this o was pretty close…but looked like shit…. IMG_6177.jpeg
But with this I’m getting very close…. IMG_6230.jpeg IMG_6234.jpeg
I think I may only go 1/2” and not the 9/16” unless someone can tell me the purpose of the specific thickness….ill have a 1/32” steel plate on bottom and the stainless templet on top….we shall see! Thanks again @Itype2slo for the assistance in this phase of the project….

next we wait on the arrival of its sisters from out west….
 
Skipp

Skipp

#64
#64
Ok before I get way too deep in this planning…has anyone ever ran a delorto or mikuni on a powell? If so how did it do? If not curious why?
Thanks!
 
Skipp

Skipp

#66
#66
Yes already figuring where to mount it….on the h model I could put the cat tank on the top rail….not sure on a c or d….maybe locate a small round tank under seat…I don’t know but I get one on it…
 
Skipp

Skipp

#69
#69
Ok on a d model…we’re speaking motor plate….the tilting assembly, its welded to the frame….is there bearings it there? Does it needs to come off and rewelded? Please explain internals… Thanks!

and if you don’t mind how long is the top nub on the shifter…,up by the knob… mines worn flat…thanks
 
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Skipp

Skipp

#70
#70
Ok, I’ll try to slow down on the questions….buuuttt, how in the hell do you get this front end apart…. I know there’s a thread, I read it, but can’t remember it and now can’t find it….damn it it sucks to get old….thanks in advance…
 
ole4

ole4

#71
#71
On my e model there were little wire retaining rings that were a pain to get apart then the innards pull out. Mine were all rusted in and it was difficult to get it apart. I wound up replacing all of it except the inner springs. Made new inner legs and outer legs and made larger bronze bushes.
 

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Skipp

Skipp

#72
#72
Well after reading ole4s post on the disassembly of the front End i decided to start in the wheels…lmao….easier don’t you know…well after 4 days I have two apart….trying to save the tires….may not work on all 4….but I did save a really nice double Indian… IMG_6296.jpeg
Saving the other 2 for a rainy day….next I found Eric’s thread on bearing replacement in the driven….so today that what we did…. IMG_6302.jpeg
Had to first remove that yellow paint….Rust oleum aircraft remover is the shit! IMG_6305.jpeg
now a night bath in evaporust and assembly tomorrow….bearings are a press fit be very easy to do by hand…I’ll add the 2 1/4” washers to each bolt so I can run a comet series 20 and the 3/4” belt….more to come…
 
Skipp

Skipp

#73
#73
IMG_6308.jpeg
IMG_6309.jpeg
Not too bad of a fit….ok break from the d on to the c….i need you fab guys to think of something….im brain locked on this, it may not even be feasible…. IMG_6310.jpeg
Like to mount this sissy bar without welding it to the seat frame as I’d like it to be removable….….like I said bored and too many extras….thanks for any input….
 
Skipp

Skipp

#74
#74
Knocked out a couple shifters today….didn’t have one for the c model but received one in the deal with Fred for the d model…so I made two like that one….the knub was worn off the old one it’ll go on the wall….going to have to take a grinder to one for the d model the knub too thick to fit into the spring…minor tweaking once assembled….any one know shot all the small holes?
IMG_6315.jpeg
 
J

JimN

#75
#75
Skipp said:
View attachment 313366
View attachment 313367
Not too bad of a fit….ok break from the d on to the c….i need you fab guys to think of something….im brain locked on this, it may not even be feasible…. View attachment 313369
Like to mount this sissy bar without welding it to the seat frame as I’d like it to be removable….….like I said bored and too many extras….thanks for any input….
Click to expand...
I'm thinking weld 2 pipes to the bottom of the seat pan that the bars can slide thru. then cross drill holes and run a pin thru them. Or a flat plate with pipes welded to them that bolts to the bottom of the seat pan.
Remove seat and use flat head screws to tapped holes in plate or clearance holes in plate with nuts.
 
Skipp

Skipp

#76
#76
Well, i tell you folks, I’ve fought some tires in my time but holy crap….day 5 on this front wheel…, for three days i tried to save the tire…. Now trying to save the wheel…. IMG_6361.jpeg
IMG_6362.jpeg
IMG_6363.jpeg
On an attitude break….
 
Studeman68

Studeman68

#77
#77
I just had a similar issue with a Heald VT3 wheel about 2-3 weeks ago on a wheel that wasn't a 2 piece. I used Kroil, and then put it in the vise using my soft face jaws holding onto the rim. I then used a air chisel with a really dull edge and went after the beads a little at a time while moving to different areas around the rim edge. I kept working it into the bead. Had to move the wheel around a few times but it worked.. took about 5 minutes per side. They were siezed on good too.
 
pomfish

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#78
#78
Skipp said:
Well, i tell you folks, I’ve fought some tires in my time but holy crap….day 5 on this front wheel…, for three days i tried to save the tire….

Don't know if you a way to try this and not sure it will work, but if you have room in deep freezer the metal should contract more than the rubber.
Worth a try.
I have ruined wheels and many a Frozen POS Aluminum torque converter driver trying to separate from engine. Once they break it's Hammertime!
Take out the frustration.

Best of luck.
Click to expand...
 
Skipp

Skipp

#79
#79
Studeman68 said:
I just had a similar issue with a Heald VT3 wheel about 2-3 weeks ago on a wheel that wasn't a 2 piece. I used Kroil, and then put it in the vise using my soft face jaws holding onto the rim. I then used an air chisel with a really dull edge and went after the beads a little at a time while moving to different areas around the rim edge. I kept working it into the bead. Had to move the wheel around a few times but it worked.. took about 5 minutes per side. They were siezed on good too.
Click to expand...
I’ve been using Gibbs…and the vise….no soft jaws I was pissed…gripped the shit out of the tire...seems the heat from cutting the tire did the best but the smell got me yelled at….once I get enough tire off I’ll soak the damn thing evaporust…then I’ll try the air chisel……

can’t use freezer….but gave me an idea…thanks all
 
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