Why does my chain keep popping off

B

Blamejefe

Member
#1
#1
I made sure my alignment was straight replaced my bent sprocket thinking about wheel bearings but my wheels seem fine it only does it when i full gas it starts shaking and pops the chain off PLEASE HELP
 
Steve73

Steve73

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
Blamejefe said:
I made sure my alignment was straight replaced my bent sprocket thinking about wheel bearings but my wheels seem fine it only does it when i full gas it starts shaking and pops the chain off PLEASE HELP
Click to expand...
add a chain tensioner so when you give it the beans, the chain will stop slapping and dancing around at high revs and popping off. also posting a picture of what your dealing with helps alot too. :rolleyes:
 
B

BrownStainRacing

Well-Known Member
#3
#3
It doesn't take much to bend, twist that #35 chain. Once it bends or gets twisted, it never runs straight again.

Pull it off, lay it straight on concrete, asphalt, or floor and inspect it. I bet you find it twisted somewhere.
 
creia

creia

#8
#8
If you really want some help put some effort in and provide some (good) pics- 3rd time you've been asked.
Also, what brand/model of bike?
Michael
 
pomfish

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#10
#10
Engine mounting plate looks like swiss cheese, bolts look undersize and what is with the spacer plate under engine?
Second look, it seems it is an adapter plate, bottom frame engine plate is still junk, flex city.
Don't like the looks of the rear axle plate either, put a bar across the top of it to rear bend in frame.
Lot's of tension in chain, let out just a little, remember "bend don't break"
If you get a new mounting plate, cut out the old one, you can eliminate the adapter, less parts the better.
You need someone with a welder.
 
B

Blamejefe

Member
#11
#11
pomfish said:
Engine mounting plate looks like swiss cheese, bolts look undersize and what is with the spacer plate under engine?
Second look, it seems it is an adapter plate, bottom frame engine plate is still junk, flex city.
Don't like the looks of the rear axle plate either, put a bar across the top of it to rear bend in frame.
Lot's of tension in chain, let out just a little, remember "bend don't break"
If you get a new mounting plate, cut out the old one, you can eliminate the adapter, less parts the better.
You need someone with a welder.
Click to expand...
Where the white lines i drew are?
 

Attachments

pomfish

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#12
#12
No, where the axle bolts onto that tab. But that is probably not the big problem, which is the engine plate.

Solve engine plate first, axle deal may not need to be addressed, I just like to beef up everything of doing a runner where originality is not an issue.
 
B

Blamejefe

Member
#13
#13
pomfish said:
No, where the axle bolts onto that tab. But that is probably not the big problem, which is the engine plate.

Solve engine plate first, axle deal may not need to be addressed, I just like to beef up everything of doing a runner where originality is not an issue.
Click to expand...
So from the axle slot to the engine mounting plate
 
pomfish

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#14
#14
No the axle plate to the bar directly to the right, but again do not focus on that right now.
Fix/replace the flat metal plate that the engine assembly bolts to, either get plate welded on top of it or preferably cut it out and replace plate from scratch.
You can buy the engine mounting plates from many vendors including the operator of this website Hent.com
 
f4radar

f4radar

Well-Known Member
#16
#16
It looks to me (based on the picture) that the engine is not level side to side, like the right side needs to be a little higher.
 
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