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  • Well actually the hole rearend must of been moved around because the tensioner you were saying is on the opposite side... the hooe for it is atleast. Um. Im gonna do the front and rear break. The rear breake is a single drum brake with a foot peg. And the front imma have to redo the brake and lines.
    So I got the shaft open. Grinded a tooth into one of the threads got all the old bolts out. The gears look good. Im sending to your email now. The bearing are so so. Imma 3 36 them and see how they work. Suprisingly rear differental all packed with greese. Really good actually. So new bolts should get me up amd going. I think thats because the chain was super tight..
    Alright let me know if you have one. That would be awesome if you did. Let me go fiddle see if I can get theold bolts out. If I can ill just drop new ones in. Imma send you an email with a video
    That should be you CAN get the broken bolts out.... Once the axles are out of the differential housing you can clean up the axle enough to slide the bearings and drums off... Again what I would do... Now that you can see what a pain it is.... First. Take lots of pics... Nothing worse than getting it all together then realizing you forgot a bearing hanger or something. If the bearings are bad and you cant get them off then I have used an angle grinder or even sawzall to cut them off the axle... Some people just re use the old bearings if they seem good but I always replace them. They lasted 40+ years the first time so if you replace them you should be good for another 40. But you dont want to take the differential apart again if you can help it. You can new axles from Northern Tool but by the time you buy new hubs and brakes and bearings its cheaper to just swap the center section of yours. Which by the way is a Peerless 100 series.
    It is hard to tell. Is the axle 3/4" or 1"... If it is 3/4" then I have a used center section I think. I will double check tomorrow but... What I would do is.... "Btw my theory is you cant break what is broken"... I would just snap the heads off the bolts. It should then come apart then you cant get the broken bolts out. Then what you do is take the gears out and on the end of the axles there are clips that hold each side in. Take off the clips and you can slide the center section off the axle. Then you can get to the bearings on the differential side of the brake drums.
    Any idea where I can get all these parts from? Or how to start looking for them?

    The issue is the brake drum is in the way to get a tapain there to get the old bolts out
    Well I tried to seperate it. It didnt want to go. Its almost like the head and the nut tore off. Did you get the pics?
    Some of the rear ends have the bolts threaded into the housing and a nut on end. If all 4 broke you should be able to separate it and get the broken bolts out. It all depends on how the innards look.
    Yes those 4 bolts snapped. Some snapped in the hoiseing.. I just dropped the rear end. Ill send you pic in an email. What now? By a whole new rearend or build this one?
    What do you mean bolts snapped? The 4 that go through the sprocket and center differential? Were they just over tightened? If you can put it back together then you can just use new bolts. Do you have pics?
    Just a hardened bolt will work and you can space it out with washers. I would use the tensioner instead of just a 10t that way when the chain stretches over time you can adjust it.
    Does it come with rod and bolt? Or get them seperatly? Should I just upgrade to a 10 sprocket and then the chain shall work?
    So now my issue is. I am using 9 sproket. But the chain either will be tight. Where it stops the trike from moving easy or really loose
    Can you throw me the link for the belt.

    and no I understand. I build cars just it was in my dads yard and I want to build it I told him years ago id get it going again. The only odd part. Is why does mine have brake pedal.never seen one with it
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