1960 Percival Hellcat

#1
I guess I'm new here but not really. I found where I had signed up in 2009 but had forgot all about it. From a new search this place seemed to have the best answers. I've not found much on this cart here so I thought maybe posting it might be good for someone else later also.

I bought this from the original owner. His story was he got it in January 1961. That would line up from what I've found on it. It came originally with the Clinton A490. Sometime not long after his dad bought the West Bend 580. He ran it for awhile. A few years ago he bought another and was going to put them on it and get it running but getting older he lost interest. My plan was to repair the seat and just get it running. It's in pretty nice shape for being original.

After what has to have been near 60 years I got the Clinton to run today. I couldn't really keep it running but that wasn't unexpected.

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Anyway, any suggestions on best way to go through the Clinton and carb to get it running well would be appreciated. I will run the carb through my ultrasonic tomorrow and I think I have a o-ring that will fit the bowl seal and can come up with something for the drain seal.

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#4
That is a wonderful project. Any one of those engines would be fun on pavement. Any two of them would be a blast an any flat surface.
Great score!
Oh, and Welcome back!
 
#7
I already saw the Max-Torque clutch in his box of parts. All he needs to do is talk nicely to it and it should work fine. They last forever if you just oil the bushing when you are done riding. No sense in spending money when you don't have to. The last time that engine was working gas was only .23 a gallon. I just love the good old days. We grew up in the best of times. the 50's and 60's. Doors never locked and you left the keys in the ignition and most families only owned one car so the roads were not grid locked.
 
#8
I already saw the Max-Torque clutch in his box of parts. All he needs to do is talk nicely to it and it should work fine. They last forever if you just oil the bushing when you are done riding. No sense in spending money when you don't have to. The last time that engine was working gas was only .23 a gallon. I just love the good old days. We grew up in the best of times. the 50's and 60's. Doors never locked and you left the keys in the ignition and most families only owned one car so the roads were not grid locked.
There are two clutches. One won't fit the shaft. The black one I'm not sure how to get it attached. and it doesn't seem to fit real good.
 
#9
Which shaft? The 580 West Bend will be 9/16, most likely with a 1/8" woodruff key (half moon). Some of them do have a full length 1/8 keyway so let me know. Need to know if threads are RH or LH so we send you the correct nut. You got two choices for engagement 2,500 or 3,000. Depending on what you are putting them on we start with a 9 tooth sprocket and up. Sprockets 10 tooth and up can have a needle bearing but not if it has a full length keyway. A phone call to answer other questions but prepare yourself I am long winded, hard to shut me up once I start talking. 630-369-9600
 
#10
Which shaft? The 580 West Bend will be 9/16, most likely with a 1/8" woodruff key (half moon). Some of them do have a full length 1/8 keyway so let me know. Need to know if threads are RH or LH so we send you the correct nut. You got two choices for engagement 2,500 or 3,000. Depending on what you are putting them on we start with a 9 tooth sprocket and up. Sprockets 10 tooth and up can have a needle bearing but not if it has a full length keyway. A phone call to answer other questions but prepare yourself I am long winded, hard to shut me up once I start talking. 630-369-9600
If I get time to work on it I can call. Otherwise on the Clinton. I have the clutch you see in the box. Not sure how it's supposed to stay on the shaft of the Clinton. It also doesn't seem at first glance to align up just right. I just took a few minutes.
 
#12
The clutch is a china made with a built-in-key. You have it lined up pretty good in the picture and the crankshaft has a centering hole in the end of it. Just drill in the crank about 1 1/4" deep and then tap it with a 1/4-20 tap. Better ask first then assume, is that a 3/4" crankshaft or a 5/8" and is the clutch nicely centered on the crank with no slop?

I am going on the road tonight for a week, measure me the length of the insert you need so that it comes flush with the end of the clutch. I will drill a 1/4" hole in it so when you put the clutch on it is flush. If you can measure the back of the clutch to the step I will make you a sleeve so the clutch has no movement once you put in the 1/4"- 20 hex bolt.
 
#13
The clutch is a china made with a built-in-key. You have it lined up pretty good in the picture and the crankshaft has a centering hole in the end of it. Just drill in the crank about 1 1/4" deep and then tap it with a 1/4-20 tap. Better ask first then assume, is that a 3/4" crankshaft or a 5/8" and is the clutch nicely centered on the crank with no slop?

I am going on the road tonight for a week, measure me the length of the insert you need so that it comes flush with the end of the clutch. I will drill a 1/4" hole in it so when you put the clutch on it is flush. If you can measure the back of the clutch to the step I will make you a sleeve so the clutch has no movement once you put in the 1/4"- 20 hex bolt.
Thanks a lot Jim. I will get you the info but I couldn't see how it would work without a bolt in end. I can drill and tap but tell me, is there a better solution?
 
#16
The only other way to get the alignment you need is to either move the engine over that 1/2" or move your rear sprocket inward both of which are a pain in the a$$. The simplest is to hang the clutch past the end of the crank BUT you will need to drill the crank to do this properly. Or you could get a new clutch with set screws already in the hub. Or you could drill the clutch you have and put two set screws into the hub. Those are the options, you pick what is easiest for you and the cheapest.
 
#17
The only other way to get the alignment you need is to either move the engine over that 1/2" or move your rear sprocket inward both of which are a pain in the a$$. The simplest is to hang the clutch past the end of the crank BUT you will need to drill the crank to do this properly. Or you could get a new clutch with set screws already in the hub. Or you could drill the clutch you have and put two set screws into the hub. Those are the options, you pick what is easiest for you and the cheapest.
How about what was originally there? Not something one can find today? I see where a set screw was once used. I had the Kart outside today running the engine when the original owner drove by and stopped.

I asked him about the clutch and again he repeated he never heard the Clinton run but he was pretty sure the clutch and chain was still on the kart when he ran it as a kid but doesn't remember why the clutch was removed or what happened to it.
 
#20
Gaskets are available for the carb.
Measure the float bowl diameter and i can tell/send you what you need.
I bought a kit. The needle and seat were a bit different so I used the old ones which were OK.

First time I've fooled with these types of carbs. Tillotson with no float bowls. Has diaphragm's. I understand this is so they can run even upside down. The carb I have on the extra engine is mounted sideways.
 
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