I recently redid an H35 for a 1970 Rupp "Sprint". Its setup internally was something I had never to come across (I learn something new everyday, too bad its about stuff that most people don't care about :laugh and its general setup is unique compared to most of the other typical 1970-up Rupp bikes so thought I would show some of that for reference.
The engine spec numbers are H35 45303G This one has a mid year date code.
This engine came off a "survivor", 95% OG Sprint and was still in original but worn and rusted paint, so I am confident in saying the setup on this correct (one deviation during rebuild was done and noted below)
Internals:
The sort of odditiy I found on this internally was that it has a non compression release cam and the bypass hole on the exhaust valve seat, but is an aluminum bore block. this is the first one I have come across in that particular configuration. anything I have ever found in the past on the small H engines were if it had the bypass hole it was a steel sleeved block. 1970 was the year you do have to watch for the changes in cases and cams.
As you can see its also 5/8 output and bushing sidecover, the 1970-1971 bikes that were centrifugal clutch driven were in fact not a ball bearing supported shaft and all 5/8"....they only used "the good stuff" on the TC-1 driven bikes :laugh: Bikes set up this way include the sprint and chopper for 1970 and the Bandit and Rascal for 1971.
External:
Riveted shroud as opposed to the bolt on type being the biggest difference over the other slant engine bikes in the Rupp lineup. non HP specific balloon decal was installed originally so I replaced with the same. This also did not have the kill wire block on the front shroud, I did deviate from original and installed one of those. The setup of these bikes does not make it that easy to get to the ground tab so I felt it was good alteration/addition. Plus it was in fact something that was on some 1970 engines and even on Rupps, I redid a 1970 scrambler (the ball bearing 3/4" crankshaft, and bolt on recoil version H35) many years ago that was a complete "survivor" to start with as well which in fact did have it. So adding a kill button to the bike will be a clean, easy install. Everything else is standard for a slanted application engine for that year.
Not the most popular bike in the Rupp lineup, but maybe somewhere down the line this info may help someone out if they are trying to build an engine up for one piece by piece or trying to right some wrongs etc..
The engine spec numbers are H35 45303G This one has a mid year date code.
This engine came off a "survivor", 95% OG Sprint and was still in original but worn and rusted paint, so I am confident in saying the setup on this correct (one deviation during rebuild was done and noted below)
Internals:
The sort of odditiy I found on this internally was that it has a non compression release cam and the bypass hole on the exhaust valve seat, but is an aluminum bore block. this is the first one I have come across in that particular configuration. anything I have ever found in the past on the small H engines were if it had the bypass hole it was a steel sleeved block. 1970 was the year you do have to watch for the changes in cases and cams.
As you can see its also 5/8 output and bushing sidecover, the 1970-1971 bikes that were centrifugal clutch driven were in fact not a ball bearing supported shaft and all 5/8"....they only used "the good stuff" on the TC-1 driven bikes :laugh: Bikes set up this way include the sprint and chopper for 1970 and the Bandit and Rascal for 1971.
External:
Riveted shroud as opposed to the bolt on type being the biggest difference over the other slant engine bikes in the Rupp lineup. non HP specific balloon decal was installed originally so I replaced with the same. This also did not have the kill wire block on the front shroud, I did deviate from original and installed one of those. The setup of these bikes does not make it that easy to get to the ground tab so I felt it was good alteration/addition. Plus it was in fact something that was on some 1970 engines and even on Rupps, I redid a 1970 scrambler (the ball bearing 3/4" crankshaft, and bolt on recoil version H35) many years ago that was a complete "survivor" to start with as well which in fact did have it. So adding a kill button to the bike will be a clean, easy install. Everything else is standard for a slanted application engine for that year.
Not the most popular bike in the Rupp lineup, but maybe somewhere down the line this info may help someone out if they are trying to build an engine up for one piece by piece or trying to right some wrongs etc..