1972 Arctic Cat Prowler Restoration - Help!

#1
Hi all,

My name is Robin and I live I Newfoundland, Canada. I've just became the proud new owner of this little gem. It's my moms old mini bike and I'd like to restore it for my daughter. She's just 2 years old yet so I have a few years to get this done.

Although I've been riding for many years, I am a complete newb in the small engine world. I have never even seen the inside of an engine before, but I've been reassured that the tiny saxonette in his little ride is extremely easy to repair and tune up. I am a tinkerer by nature so I'm really looking forward to this project.

I am not sure where to start in this restoration. Does anyone have any advice? As far as I know, the only problem was with the pull cord, and a little weld and some rasping will supposedly fix it. That being said, I want to go deeper than just getting it running, I want it to look like the day it was bought! Unfortunately, my grandparents didn't take a photo of it when it was new and no one seems to remember what colour it was when my grandfather purchased it.

Here we go:

The bike has been idle but stored inside for 25 years so what is in the gas tank is pretty thick, how do I go about fixing that? Is there a process for cleaning the inside of an old gas engine? How do I get the thickened fuel out of the tank and components? And what should be replaced in the engine after doing this? Are there seals or lines I need to purchase in advance?

How do you guys go about cleaning the white oxidation from the fins by the cylinder? Can you use abrasive pads or is there a gentler way? There is a build up or white corrosion but I don't want to damage anything with the wrong tools.

I plan on getting the chrome pieces re-chromed at a local shop if my husband will pay for it, and the black frame is easy enough to get powder coated again, but I am not sure what to do about the tank and fenders. The factory colour was navel orange as stated in the spec sheet for the 1972 Prowlers, but I cannot find a paint code or an example of the colour to bring to a shop. I do have an Orange chip from under the rubber trim around the tank, but everyone is telling me the tank is supposed to be gold, as the exposed areas are now. Can anyone confirm that all of the 1972 Prowers were actually the dark reddish orange that is hiding under the trim? And are there decals to be bought or should I tape off the existing decals? They are in hard shape, and due to the curvature on the tank I don't know if I can have them scanned and replicated.

Any tips are welcome and very much appreciated! :) Thanks in advance.

 
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#3
Thanks bigrob, looks like we are neighbours. :) Love your collection.

I am having a hard time finding anyone else here in this province with a vintage bike like mine, so I had to find a community online. Looks like I've found the right place.
 
#4
Awesome 72 Prowler! Looks nearly complete from the tiny pic on my phone. I'll have to look more closely online. So many questions...

Yes, the original color on all Prowlers, 71 and 72, was a sort of medium reddish copper metallic. Hard to describe and totally depends on the lighting. There are no paint codes from back then. It's also true that the paint color sometimes varied slightly from batch to batch.

What you see under the band is probably close. The best place to check is under the tank. There is black foam tape under the center hump. Peel some of that back and you'll see it. This paint faded horribly fast in the sun. I got my first 72 around 1980 and it was already half gone to sort of a light reddish copper color.

People paint them wrong all the time, anywhere from dark reddish brown to sort of a copper. Its sister model (Whisker) was originally more of a gold/orange mix, but fades to a similar but more washed out yellow/green. I'll try to post pics of both.

End of part 1... :)




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#5
Parts are sort of available. You have the tough to find and expensive ones, mainly the recoil. Hopefully it's complete and functional. If your throttle has an integrated red kill button, congratulations! That's a tough one to find too. Can't tell from the pictures but the seat looks decent. If soft and no cracks or tears, awesome! If the tank cap has the gauge lens is unbroken and transparent, you are lucky.

Top of the cylinder head is aluminum. Might be pitted. You can have it tumbled, vapor blasted, or carefully use an aluminum cleaner chemical spray. The problem with some of those options are that the original was smooth die cast. Do not sandblast or glass beads blast it. NOS Ines are available and fairly cheap if yours can't be salvaged.

Front forks are interesting to take apart. There are internal springs and plastic sleeve bushings. I have a post on here somewhere about it. Careful removing the white end caps. People sell replacement sleeves and end caps but they are reproductions. Too bright white and too brittle. None are very good. Stick with original if you can.

Kickstand was extra long on the spoked models. Hopefully you have that. Any available NOS replacement will be too short so use your original and have it zinc plated if necessary.

On to part 3....

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#6
Reproduction brake cables are probably a must if yours are as bad as most. We have 2 great members here who make them.

Reproduction decals are available from members here too and will cost around $40 or less. The carbs are plentiful. Hopefully your float is good.

Disassemble the carb and soak everything in carb dip. Run a small wire or stiff bristle from a nylon paintbrush through all the passages. Soak some more and repeat. There are many techniques for the inside of the tank. Search this forum.

There's a part 4? Seriously?....

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#7
The engine...

I love the Saxonette models. They are the only ones I collect.

I took my first one apart at 14 or 15. Take pics...easy now with cell phones. Have the exploded drawings on hand and lay every stack out in order. Crank seals will probably need replacing. Somewhat hard to find. Vintage gasket sets include them but those are scarce too. There are all sorts of shims, sleeves and spacers, be careful. You may not need to take the engine apart if good compression and cylinder is smooth inside.

Fuel mix is 25:1 with good quality traditional 2-cycle oil. I don't use synthetic. Same with transmission fluid. Try to go with older technology fluid for compatibility with the internal friction pads. I use Valvoline DEX/MERC.

I video taped a full tear down and rebuild once. Camera didn't zoom right on half the shots so my many, many hours were wasted. Haven't had a chance to do it again. Some day...

One final note... There are great reasonably priced parts available from members here or a couple of quality vendors online. Ebay is hit and miss. 100%'rs only! Stay far far away from any seller listed in Pleasant Valley, NY. He has multiple accounts due to his negative ratings. He sells stuff he doesn't have in stock, then orders it from the good suppliers and reships to you. He doubles (usually more) the price from what you could buy direct. It's fair business, more power to him, but takes advantage of people who don't know better. Scumbag in my book.

PM me with any questions. Parts sources, tech questions, anything. I love these bikes, inside and out.
 
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#8
One last note after reading your post again...

The recoil is extremely fragile. EXTREMELY!!! I never let anyone in my house pull one but me. It's also expensive. $400 for fully functional ones, if you can find them. There's a specific technique to doing it safely.

Your comment about welding and rasping scares me. Do not do either without serious thought and consultation.

PS: repro springs are available for $50 or less. No reason to spend hundreds of dollars for a new old stock one on eBay.

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