3 hp throttle problem

#1
I picked up a 3hp Briggs, and the last owner jacked up the throttle hook-up. It will not return to idle, and I don't know how it's supposed to go. Can anyone post up a pic of where to run the return spring? I tried to search, but didnt find anything. Thanks
 
#2
Heres what I have set up



It is on a 5 horse, but it should be the same.


You want the spring to pull the screw into the carb, if the spring is like that, and it still wont idle down, back that screw out a bit
 
Last edited:
#4
do you have a pic? Theres lots of ways to do it but the less stress on the throttle body the better.
I'll go snap one. I forgot to note that the air governor is still part of the equation for now. Engine is going on a little kid bike, so I prefer to keep it for now. Back in a few with pic
 
#5




I took off the throttle cable to run the engine and see if I can get it working. The cable was frayed and sticking, and I wanted to eliminate that as a problem area.

FWIW, the engine runs, but will not pull down to idle. I removed the heavier spring in the pic and tried it with just the light spring. I have another engine that only has the light one, so figured it would idle down without the bigger one. I did discover that the light spring wasn't seated correctly, but haven't tried to run it since correcting the.

Can I just disconnect the linkage running from choke to throttle arm? Part of the problem is that it seems to be binding up.
 
Last edited:
#6
you can remove it, there isnt one on mine,

one of my flatheads needs a spring, to keep the choke in the tube, it likes to work its way out, so be careful,

That spring is also at a bad angle ( to my point of view) to close the throttle completely
 
#7
you can remove it, there isnt one on mine,

one of my flatheads needs a spring, to keep the choke in the tube, it likes to work its way out, so be careful,

That spring is also at a bad angle ( to my point of view) to close the throttle completely
The choke rod was bent-I straightened it out and now it doesn't seem to hang up anymore. I may try to leave it.

Right now neither one of the springs will close the throttle-are you talking about the heavier or lighter spring? I think the heavy spring is in the wrong place. I have another 2hp motor that doesn't have it. From what I can dope out, for either spring to close the throttle one of them has got to pull in the opposite direction of the way they run now.
 
#9
shoot
i assume you want to keep the governor eh?
Yeah, I need it to keep a newbie-kid rider's speed in check. I think if I run a spring from the throttle arm to something solid (shroud maybe?) behind it I can get that to work.

I still need to make the governor return to idle. It wouldn't when I ran the engine earlier, but the light spring is mangled a little and wasn't seated on the governor blade -I think it was still under tension and pulling at idle. Will have to put cover back on and try again.
 
#10
Got engine idling now, I pulled the heavy spring off and fiddled with the lighter spring. The heavy one didn't seem to do anything as far as I could tell. Now I just need a return spring to pull the throttle arm back to idle. Any suggestions on how that should be run? I'm suspecting that the PO that futzed with the springs in the first place was trying to get it working and put the heavy spring (top spring in pic) on in an attempt to get it to close the throttle.
 
#11
For one, I would remove the Gov flap and linkage because the throttle cable will take it over anyway.. You can put a throttle stop on the cable to limit his speed with a cable nut/lock (for your kid)

Here is the simplest way to hook up and it works. I came up with this when I wanted to quickly test an engine and it works so well I left some like it and never ever had a single problem.


First install engine and get your throttle cable hooked up to the right size and leave extra cable housing slack on the frame for moving around the engine then leave enough cable to make a hook at the end of the cable.

Mark the cable where you want it ( at idle) and leave 1/2" extra for the hook part. Cut the cable and bend a hook (down/under) (see red)

Clean it and solder it so the hook is stiff top and bottom NOW all you ever have to do is pull back on the throttle to unhook it and rehook it . You can adjust it by moving the housing where it's mounted (green) So leave enough.

For the spring, make a bracket that will hold the spring somewhere on the engine (blue for example purposes only) (option #1 and #2) You want it to pull straight/level (not up or down) and get the right strength spring and angle to make sure the throttle returns at the grip EVERY time)

Next hook it to the throttle by using the Gov rod hole. The spring tension keeps the hook in place at all times.

Then to limit the boy's RPM's either leave extra cable housing or put a adjustable lock on the cable before you do the hook. (orange)

There's lots of other ways and mods (including removing the trottle body for mods) but this is the easiest one to explain and do and it works. Also put a kill switch on the bars for the boy.

Sorry for the crude pic. :doah:
 
Last edited:
#12
This is an interesting thread for me, as I've got two 2-hp Briggs engines with pneumatic gov. set ups, and I'd really like to know how to get them set up so they function as from the factory. If only because I've struggled for some time to figure it out. Lol.
 
#13
This is an interesting thread for me, as I've got two 2-hp Briggs engines with pneumatic gov. set ups, and I'd really like to know how to get them set up so they function as from the factory. If only because I've struggled for some time to figure it out. Lol.
When the fan from the fly wheel increases speed it causes the flap to move and the rod pulls back on the throttle slowing the engine down. Real simple and easy way to govern.
 
#14
Sorry for the crude pic. :doah:
Most excellent pic and explanation. I've got a solution that I'm going to try that I think will still allow the governor to work first, but if it doesn't function correctly I'll rig it as you described and put on the throttle stop. I like the soldered hook idea, too.
 
#15
This is an interesting thread for me, as I've got two 2-hp Briggs engines with pneumatic gov. set ups, and I'd really like to know how to get them set up so they function as from the factory. If only because I've struggled for some time to figure it out. Lol.
I've got a nice little 2hp edger motor that I plan to use in the future. I can snap pics of the factory spring and rod on it if you like.
 
#16
I've got a nice little 2hp edger motor that I plan to use in the future. I can snap pics of the factory spring and rod on it if you like.

That would be awesome! I would truly appreciate it if you could do that... I'd love to see how the factory set up is rigged, so I get mine set up the same way. Thanks!
 

zeeman

Active Member
#17
Hey what kind of frame are you guys with 2hp engines planning on using. I have a 2 horse I'd like to put in a frame, but I'm worried it will not pull me around. I weigh about 210. Would it have to have a jack shaft?
 
#20
Heres what I have set up



It is on a 5 horse, but it should be the same.


You want the spring to pull the screw into the carb, if the spring is like that, and it still wont idle down, back that screw out a bit


in this photo is that where it idles??? i have mine set up similiar and it seems to work?
 
Top