I want to see if any of you engine guys have any logical suggestions past what I have already done.
I have a 1973 Honda z50A. when I first got it, it was smoking like a bandit and fouling plugs. Wet fouling and the compression was 60 psi when its suppose to be 170 psi +- 10 psi.
What I have found/done.
1. The intake valve was too tight where the valve was always open. I properly adjusted the valves and brought the psi 90 psi, still 80 psi too low and is now dry fouling plugs instead of wet fouling. checked cam timing and ignition timing, both OK. Adjusted carb. Has a strong spark.
2. Replaced piston and rings, went to 100 psi. still dry fouling.
3. Replaced cylinder with a stock honed cylinder. Also replaced piston and rings a second time. Replaced valves and lapped them, replaced springs and seals. guides look OK. psi is now 130 psi. Still dry fouling but not smoking.
4. Tried gong to hotter plugs to help burn off the carbon accumulating on the plugs, each one bringing an additional 70 to 100 degrease increase in plug tip temp.
NGK C6HSA (stock) then NGK CR5HSA (hotter) then NGK CR4HSA (hotter yet)
Still dry fouling.
It runs with a lot of power until the plug fouls and quits.
Here are some things that I know will affect plug tip temp and can cause fouling.
A. Low engine speed, excessive idling.
B. Too retarded ignition.
C. Bad piston or rings.
D. Bad cylinder.
E. Bad leaky valves.
F. Bad guides. (letting oil go past them)
G. Too cold plug.
H. Loose plug.
I. Low compression ratio.
J. weak spark.
Anyone out there with any ideas? please read my whole post before responding.
Thanks.
Animotion
I have a 1973 Honda z50A. when I first got it, it was smoking like a bandit and fouling plugs. Wet fouling and the compression was 60 psi when its suppose to be 170 psi +- 10 psi.
What I have found/done.
1. The intake valve was too tight where the valve was always open. I properly adjusted the valves and brought the psi 90 psi, still 80 psi too low and is now dry fouling plugs instead of wet fouling. checked cam timing and ignition timing, both OK. Adjusted carb. Has a strong spark.
2. Replaced piston and rings, went to 100 psi. still dry fouling.
3. Replaced cylinder with a stock honed cylinder. Also replaced piston and rings a second time. Replaced valves and lapped them, replaced springs and seals. guides look OK. psi is now 130 psi. Still dry fouling but not smoking.
4. Tried gong to hotter plugs to help burn off the carbon accumulating on the plugs, each one bringing an additional 70 to 100 degrease increase in plug tip temp.
NGK C6HSA (stock) then NGK CR5HSA (hotter) then NGK CR4HSA (hotter yet)
Still dry fouling.
It runs with a lot of power until the plug fouls and quits.
Here are some things that I know will affect plug tip temp and can cause fouling.
A. Low engine speed, excessive idling.
B. Too retarded ignition.
C. Bad piston or rings.
D. Bad cylinder.
E. Bad leaky valves.
F. Bad guides. (letting oil go past them)
G. Too cold plug.
H. Loose plug.
I. Low compression ratio.
J. weak spark.
Anyone out there with any ideas? please read my whole post before responding.
Thanks.
Animotion
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