Baha front brakes
- Thread starter Steve Albright
- Start date
- Tags baha brakes front
Great ! To me the rear brake alone just isn't enough. I am building one of my Hawg Tys with that in mind and have already installed an ATV thumb throttle and brake lever and am looking for a used rear wheel and drum assy. I have a Predator I am installing using a 9"x12" engine mount plate that moves the engine foward enough for the valve cover to fit without hitting the seat down tube. I figure I just need to lengthen the chain two or three links and I will use the stock jackshaft system untill I can afford a TAV.
I have that documented, did mine in 2007. if you goto my site: minibajaownersgroup @ yahoo groups, I designed the plate and my buddy dave entered it into his cad program. So, you have a actual size adaptor plate stencil you can print and cut out. get a rear wheel assy, some extra washers, spare cable and lever assy.
Easy job.
Easy job.
I got the drawing and made the bracket. I had a U bolt that was just a hair not wide enough. I spread it open a bit, then bent it back using a large socket that is the same diameter at the fork to hold it open at the right diameter. Fits perfect.
The only thing I am not sure about is what bracket did you use to hold the cable? I have not drilled those two holes yet until I can find the bracket they were meant to fit.
The only thing I am not sure about is what bracket did you use to hold the cable? I have not drilled those two holes yet until I can find the bracket they were meant to fit.
Well, since nobody answered, I'll post this in case someone else finds this thread.
The rear rim does come with bearings, but no valve stem. Just in case, I had already picked one up at Walmart.
The factory brake cable comes with the adjuster nut and sleeve. This is good as I will explain below.
I ordered a tire too as I wanted to keep the original one mounted in case I needed to revert back.
I ordered the rear axles spacers, but it turns out I did not need them. All I needed was one washer. I reused the existing front spacers and with the bracket, all that was needed was one washer on the opposite side.
I had already made the bracket from the template last week and was just waiting on the parts, so it all went together fairly easily. I ran into few minor issues, but after a couple of hours, I had it all sorted out.
I used the factory rear brake cable on the front and simply looped the excess around as shown in the second picture. It causes no binding or issues and IMO is better than using a cable clamp (or whatever they are called) as it's not going to slip and is easy to adjust. The "L" bracket I used for the cable hold worked out well as I only used one bolt to mount it to the bracket. This allowed me to pivot it at the correct angle to the brake arm. I originally had it mounted to the outside of the bracket, but moving it to the inside lined up the cable better.
So far it seems to work great.
The last picture shows how I mounted the spedo magnet. Actually that caused me the most grief as I needed to use the sprocket mount, and it took a while to find a way that it would stay put and also pass the sensor properly.
The rear rim does come with bearings, but no valve stem. Just in case, I had already picked one up at Walmart.
The factory brake cable comes with the adjuster nut and sleeve. This is good as I will explain below.
I ordered a tire too as I wanted to keep the original one mounted in case I needed to revert back.
I ordered the rear axles spacers, but it turns out I did not need them. All I needed was one washer. I reused the existing front spacers and with the bracket, all that was needed was one washer on the opposite side.
I had already made the bracket from the template last week and was just waiting on the parts, so it all went together fairly easily. I ran into few minor issues, but after a couple of hours, I had it all sorted out.
I used the factory rear brake cable on the front and simply looped the excess around as shown in the second picture. It causes no binding or issues and IMO is better than using a cable clamp (or whatever they are called) as it's not going to slip and is easy to adjust. The "L" bracket I used for the cable hold worked out well as I only used one bolt to mount it to the bracket. This allowed me to pivot it at the correct angle to the brake arm. I originally had it mounted to the outside of the bracket, but moving it to the inside lined up the cable better.
So far it seems to work great.
The last picture shows how I mounted the spedo magnet. Actually that caused me the most grief as I needed to use the sprocket mount, and it took a while to find a way that it would stay put and also pass the sensor properly.
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Thanks. I had been looking on craigslist for a good deal on a used bike as it never hurts to have a bunch of spare parts. But the cheapest one I could find was $400, not in very good shape, and the older "silver" model. So in the end, I decided to just buy new parts. The total cost was $175 (I built the bracket with parts I already had). However, $10 was for the bushings that I did not need, and the new tire was $60. So if I would have remounted my existing tire, I could have gotten it done for $105. Still not exactly cheap, but seeing how I paid $230 for the torque converter, it was not much in the big scheme of things. And since my wife bought me the bike for my b-day, I don't have that much into it out of my pocket. :smile: