The Torque Converter showed up this afternoon.
I remove the Jack-Shaft drive and did a test fit of the cast aluminum mounting plate on the engine and bike's frame. I found on my bike all I needed to modify was the cast aluminum needed to be notched at the widest portion of the frame. The Jack-Shaft support bracket did need to be moved out of the way two inches.
The mounting holes to the engine block had to be open up .005" to allow the holes to line up.
Other than cutting the plastic TC cover and shortening the chain guard 1/2", no other cutting needed to be done.
The engine heat shield was left in place and used. The bearing support casting arms were not cut,nor was the rear oil fill plug. All cleared the casting with no problems.
The only problem is the drive chain is too short by one link! Aarg!
The engine cannot be moved rearward any more as the valve cover is touching the seat support as it is.
I did have to add one 1/8" spacer to the driver clutch to align the drive belt to the driven pulley.
Now I need to I.D the chain size. I have a lot of #40 chain but it is wider than the chain on the bike now. It is NOT a #35 chain.
I will need to buy a 1/2 link or find a full link in order to ride the bike.
The black ink are the four slightly enlarged holes for mounting to the engine block. You can see the notch I milled into the casting to clear the bike's frame.
Bracket that needed to be bent back two inches
The TC installed. Chain guard and TC cover cut to fit.
Heat shield still in place, it was slightly bent inward a fraction of an inch.
I remove the Jack-Shaft drive and did a test fit of the cast aluminum mounting plate on the engine and bike's frame. I found on my bike all I needed to modify was the cast aluminum needed to be notched at the widest portion of the frame. The Jack-Shaft support bracket did need to be moved out of the way two inches.
The mounting holes to the engine block had to be open up .005" to allow the holes to line up.
Other than cutting the plastic TC cover and shortening the chain guard 1/2", no other cutting needed to be done.
The engine heat shield was left in place and used. The bearing support casting arms were not cut,nor was the rear oil fill plug. All cleared the casting with no problems.
The only problem is the drive chain is too short by one link! Aarg!
The engine cannot be moved rearward any more as the valve cover is touching the seat support as it is.
I did have to add one 1/8" spacer to the driver clutch to align the drive belt to the driven pulley.
Now I need to I.D the chain size. I have a lot of #40 chain but it is wider than the chain on the bike now. It is NOT a #35 chain.
I will need to buy a 1/2 link or find a full link in order to ride the bike.
The black ink are the four slightly enlarged holes for mounting to the engine block. You can see the notch I milled into the casting to clear the bike's frame.
Bracket that needed to be bent back two inches
The TC installed. Chain guard and TC cover cut to fit.
Heat shield still in place, it was slightly bent inward a fraction of an inch.