Bird Minibike Resto-mod

#1
Hey Y'all,

Wanted to share my new project with you (and ask a plethora of questions to some of the seasoned vets on here). I've been scouring this site since the purchase and have gotten a lot of good info! This is my first true minibike, although I grew up of all sizes of jap bikes & racing MX through childhood. A couple of friends have various modern Chinese bikes with clone swaps, and while browsing FB marketplace about 10 days ago I spotted (what I believe to be) a '69-'72ish Sears/Bird Engineering Drover in Knotts Island, NC, close to home. I am not entirely sure that it is indeed a Drover, I am going to post the build progress in this thread and will point out some conflicting equipment that I just can't match up 100% to one model. It original color is what I'll call challenger green, the frame and bars are 1" tube and the foot pegs are 7/8" tube.

This is the bike. It was mostly complete, with a 3hp flathead, I believe off of a tiller, of incorrect year. When I went to look at the bike, The frame and forks were straight as an arrow, there was no real rust, the engine was running (poorly, idle circuit only), and the tires were flat/dry rotted/bald. The handlebars and comfortable riding position (for a 6'3 230lb dude such as myself) are what sold me on the project, so with a crisp $100 bill we were off. My intent was to restore it while maintaining as much proper vintage equipment as possible, although I have only given myself memorial day weekend to complete the project and a $500 total budget, so there are some constraints. We are already in the middle of drag race season, and I want to have this at the track next weekend for motoring around the pits. This is not a strictly original restoration, so if you are a purist, prepare to be disappointed. HOWEVER, I wont hang a clone on it or any other silliness like that.

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I tinkered with the carb a bit (a flojet model) and could not get it to run on the mains at all. However, even with flat tires and a poorly running 3 horse I could still hand throttle around the yard, albeit slowly.

I stripped the bike down to a box of parts, and got my bill of materials together. The wheel bearings were a non sealed 1 3/8 flanged type, and shot. The steering neck had prior repairs done (web repaired, tube rewelded (cracked), some sort of additional bushing brazed in) and the bushings were shot. The scrub brake appears to either have been modified, is missing the wear pad, or is possibly correct and I have yet to find a duplicate on the web. The footpegs were straight, but worn from some asphalt slides. Throttle missing, kill switch not wired. Chrome rusty. Seat shot. Motor plate welds cracking. Missing the fenders. Missing chain guard.

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The scrub brake is actually a very nice aluminum casting with clean parting lines, and stainless rod, hardware, springs. Almost too nice to not be OEM 60's American made stuff.


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The bottom of the neck tube was also wallered out, and had a "shim" shoved in it to tighten up the bushing. The bushings are 3/8x5/8/3/4 steel rather than bronze.

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With all this in mind I decided to sandblast everything down bare and identify any other possible frame issues. I did not find anything else than what is mentioned above. Before blasting, I steam cleaned the frame and found under 4-5 coats of paint the original "challenger green". In the spirit of bringing this back to its former glory, I decided to stick with the original color.

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Here the bike is blasted down to bare metal and prepped for fabrication.


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Out of attachment space - To be continued
 
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#2
I looked into aftermarket wheels, but the cost would blow out my budget. I ended up sandblasting these wheels, installing new sealed high speed bearings, and reused the old 1/2"x5/8" sleeves. I was concerned with the wheels as they are different hub widths - 5" front, 5 3/4" rear, and sleeves were not readily available. However, once I disassembled them and ID'd the parts (and was pleasantly surprised the sleeves were reusable and not worn), it was evident a rebuild was a viable option. 20230528_143311.jpg

Repairs done to the frame, the engine plate was welded in the original locations as well as underneath to prevent further stress cracking from the vibration.

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Frame and wheels primed up. Unfortunately I still have to grind and weld on fenders/brackets, but I did not want it to flash rust overnight in our current >98% Virginia Humidity.

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While scouring marketplace again, for $50 I picked up 5x 5HP engines, a pz19 Carb and manifold, 2 full rebuild kits, and several other bags of spare parts. I was really only after the Red I/C motor (a '92 - dual ball bearing cast sleeve unit, w/ PTO bolt pattern and 3/4 shaft). The I/C was still in the hands of the original owner who drained the fuel and oil when the washer it was on blew up 8 years ago. We put some oil in the case and fuel in the old pulsa jet and she fired off and started humming along!
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I decided to run a 10" exhaust over the rear fender, with some 3/4 galvanized pipe and the hot dog muffler. Also swapped the carb and manifold off of the kart motor to the I/C. The 3hp flywheel and coil off the engine that came with the bike was also installed on the I/C


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New parts arrived VERY quickly (thanks OldMiniBikes). I purchased: 2x 6" fenders, 2x Carlisle copy cat tires, bronze neck bushings, high speed wheel bearings, reproduction 12" chrome shocks, a hot dog muffler, a maxtorque 12T 3/4 SS clutch, a 1" throttle assembly, 1" ribbed grips (which I believe to be proper for the bike), reproduction 7/8 foot peg grips, new chain, tygon 3/16 fuel line, fuel filters and the materials to build the new fuel tank (not all is pictured here).

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Lunch Break over, will post the rest this evening.
 
#3
Moving on to fuel tank fab, I pondered on where to locate the tank for quite a while. Ultimately classic "between the legs" mounting was best, trying to avoid the ugliness of a fuel pump and additional lines. The tank is made from a MAP gas bottle, cut down about 4", with mounting nuts (cant stand hose clamps around the frame), a speedway motors full size filler neck and cap, and a chinese metric petcock. I will say - Im not super thrilled with how the tank came out. It really could have used a skim coat and sanding before paint, however I am neither a body man nor a good sheet metal fabricator, so it will do 'for now'.

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Brackets welded on the frame


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Fabbed the bracket for the rear fender. I set them very low to the tire (with enough room for debris to clear without damage) and am very happy with the overall look.

I also believe the wheels were gloss white originally, so I went with base white and clear. The insides of the wheels were cleaned, smoothed and coated also and tires glued on- tubeless. Holding air for 2 days so far, hopefully that continues.

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Cleaned and Primed again where welding took place, and on to base coat clear coat.

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Behind schedule, was hoping to be done on Monday. The paint refused to properly cure in our current weather conditions, so I cooked it at home for 2 days and will be on to final assembly tonight. I expect to be done rather quickly other than making the throttle cable and hope to have some completed pictures up tonight as well. Stage 2 will be going into the engine in pursuit of real power and also refreshing the cosmetics of the old briggs.

The bars should clean up nicely with an SOS pad or some BKF. I'm also scheduled with an upholstery man to have the seat redone. Same shape, stiffer foam, new base, white piping rather than gold, and diamond white stitched top.

I am in search of a original chain guard - and brake pedal pad, if anyone can be of assistance. I believe the one on here is a ford clutch pedal pad. If necessary, I'll grab an actual clutch pedal from the boneyard and weld it on so a new pad will fit properly. Also still looking to ID the bike, the scrub brake, and what I may or may not be missing for a wear pad back there.
 
#4
Sweet project, it's gonna be a great rider! Here is mine, hope this helps clarify the foot pedal situation. Hopefully this summer she'll get restored as well!
9C3DA5C3-6603-4992-8F8B-CF7BABC9C50D_1_105_c.jpeg 821CC01A-CCCC-435D-A0B4-9B3C3B54F65D_1_105_c.jpeg CABC8608-CC48-4466-BD71-7B79E39AA179_1_105_c.jpeg E51811EC-1298-4D60-983C-F7F92BC11F5D_1_105_c.jpeg 93D1ECE9-A62E-4827-A3B8-20955B053597_1_102_o.jpeg 9C3DA5C3-6603-4992-8F8B-CF7BABC9C50D_1_105_c.jpeg 821CC01A-CCCC-435D-A0B4-9B3C3B54F65D_1_105_c.jpeg CABC8608-CC48-4466-BD71-7B79E39AA179_1_105_c.jpeg E51811EC-1298-4D60-983C-F7F92BC11F5D_1_105_c.jpeg 2556D4BA-9E10-46F2-8F85-5F11660243A8_1_201_a.jpeg 84D07DD8-6535-4A86-AE91-D0AA39D36D53_1_201_a.jpeg 31E9EF0F-CF8F-43E9-816F-C549D9A230DA.jpeg 1A74E2BA-8C03-4F89-AD9B-A0C6FC6F0CE0_1_201_a.jpeg 0F7BB439-867D-4A46-ADCD-664AF519C612_1_201_a.jpeg 07401D2A-C4BF-4390-8AE0-4A90DAD10951_1_102_o.jpeg 3D501DC5-8DA7-446B-A89A-AA0B3D957C94_1_102_o.jpeg EAB3AE82-DBF3-4699-A3CD-4835A7B4E8F5_1_102_o.jpeg 99899165-57BB-4683-904B-6F2D0B52EB88_1_102_o.jpeg
 

minibikefever

Well-Known Member
#5
Moving on to fuel tank fab, I pondered on where to locate the tank for quite a while. Ultimately classic "between the legs" mounting was best, trying to avoid the ugliness of a fuel pump and additional lines. The tank is made from a MAP gas bottle, cut down about 4", with mounting nuts (cant stand hose clamps around the frame), a speedway motors full size filler neck and cap, and a chinese metric petcock. I will say - Im not super thrilled with how the tank came out. It really could have used a skim coat and sanding before paint, however I am neither a body man nor a good sheet metal fabricator, so it will do 'for now'.

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Brackets welded on the frame


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Fabbed the bracket for the rear fender. I set them very low to the tire (with enough room for debris to clear without damage) and am very happy with the overall look.

I also believe the wheels were gloss white originally, so I went with base white and clear. The insides of the wheels were cleaned, smoothed and coated also and tires glued on- tubeless. Holding air for 2 days so far, hopefully that continues.

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Cleaned and Primed again where welding took place, and on to base coat clear coat.

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Behind schedule, was hoping to be done on Monday. The paint refused to properly cure in our current weather conditions, so I cooked it at home for 2 days and will be on to final assembly tonight. I expect to be done rather quickly other than making the throttle cable and hope to have some completed pictures up tonight as well. Stage 2 will be going into the engine in pursuit of real power and also refreshing the cosmetics of the old briggs.

The bars should clean up nicely with an SOS pad or some BKF. I'm also scheduled with an upholstery man to have the seat redone. Same shape, stiffer foam, new base, white piping rather than gold, and diamond white stitched top.

I am in search of a original chain guard - and brake pedal pad, if anyone can be of assistance. I believe the one on here is a ford clutch pedal pad. If necessary, I'll grab an actual clutch pedal from the boneyard and weld it on so a new pad will fit properly. Also still looking to ID the bike, the scrub brake, and what I may or may not be missing for a wear pad back there.
looking good
 
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