....Also after that you can put a little oil on the small sprocket in the clutch thats the only place u can lube it TRY IT GOOD LUCK
Huh?
Where'd you come up with that?
ut:
Almost every 'dry style' centrifugal clutch requires specific & regular lubrication. I believe every 2 to 4 hours of operation is the usual recommended interval.
The following "Maintenance Tech Tips" were copied from:
Extreme Duty Centrifugal Clutches
The centrifugal clutch whether it is being used in a minibike or a go-kart needs to be lubricated each day that you ride. To get best results oil the clutch before and after each time that you ride. YOU CAN NEVER OIL THE CLUTCH TOO MUCH. It is a good idea to oil the chain at the same time that you oil the clutch.
The Hilliard Extreme Duty clutch contains an oil impregnated bronze bushing. 20% of the weight of the bushing is the oil that is impregnated into the bushing by the manufacturer. This oil can leak out, or can evaporate over time, and must be replaced. The bushing is a loose fit into the sprocket and is driven by the crankshaft. A snapring holds the bushing into the sprocket on all LD4S-“x”L series clutches. The LD4S-“x” series clutches DO NOT HAVE A SNAPRING.
To oil the clutch bushing shut the engine off, apply standard organic motor oil (SAE 10w-30) to the snap ring area. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL’S because the special additives in these oils prevent the required steel to steel contact between the clutch shoes and the clutch drum. Loosing this steel to steel contact will make the clutch slip, reducing its torque transmission to the ground. Be sure to oil the bushing on all sides. To ensure that the oil is evenly spread out over the bushing surface rotate the clutch housing (the part attached to the sprocket). Oiling the clutch while it is warm will allow the porous bushing to soak up more oil, and will help replenish the oil that was inside the bushing when it was new.
Thoroughly cleaning the dirt from the clutch will help prolong its life. Dirt is abrasive and can act like sandpaper. The rough surface will prematurely wear the bushing, sprocket, chain, and other parts of your Kart. Cleaning all of these areas regularly will prolong both the clutches life, and that of the kart. Preventive maintenance is the secret to prolonging the life of the clutch.
If you find that the drum and sprocket assembly wobbles on the engine shaft, this indicates that the bushing is wearing out. You should buy a replacement bushing before you cause damage to the sprocket or sleeve with steel to steel contact. A worn bushing can also lead to a thrown chain. Replacing the bushing early when you first see a wobble will prevent damage to the clutch.
A visual inspection of the clutch will also let you know what may be going on with the clutch in your application. For example, a clutch with blued shoes will indicate that the clutch is slipping. If the clutch is slipping, a user may want to consider a gear reduction, or a different riding technique. Also changing the tire size will affect the overall gear ratio, if your clutch is slipping try a smaller diameter tire. (Read the riding Tech Tips). If the bushing is blue or purple, again heat is a problem however, the bushing needed to be oiled more often, and should be replaced. The blued bushing is also an indication that the clutch is slipping.
If your go kart takes off by itself when the engine is started, with no one in the drivers seat, that is an indication that the clutch is badly in need of inspection. Turn the engine off and park the machine up against a tree or fence to prevent it from taking off when you crank the engine again. You can also put the rear end up on blocks so the rear wheels are not touching the ground. If the wheels do move when the engine is started, turn off the engine and try lubricating the clutch bushing. Give the lube enough time to penetrate the clutch then restart the engine. If the machine continues to take off by itself even after the clutch has been oiled, remove the clutch and perform a visual inspection of the bushing, and the springs that hold the shoes on. If the bushing is blue or purple in color, and or the springs are loose, then replace those parts as needed. If other parts are damaged then the clutch must be replaced.
There is a pretty cool product on the market to provide (In my opinion anyway) a much better way to lube the clutch bushing. (Unfortunately I'm not able to find the link to it at this time.) From what I recall, this product consists of a clutch retention washer & a 'special bolt' that threads into the end of your engines output shaft. This 'special bolt' has been center drilled for the length of the bolt. The head of the bolt has been tapped to receive a Zerk type grease fitting. If I recall correctly... the engines output shaft needs to be modified by drilling a small hole from the outside to the center.
Now when you install the clutch, plus the new retaining bolt & washer. You are able to take your handy dandy grease gun with your favorite grease & give your clutch a nice shot of grease where it needs it the most.
If someone is familiar with this product & knows of a link to it. Please add it to this post or send it to me in a PM.
Here are a few more technical links on centrifugal clutch design, operation & proper maintenance.
Extreme Duty Centrifugal Clutches
Extreme Duty Centrifugal Clutches
Fun Kart
Thank you
~JM~