Coleman ct200u crankshaft replacement

K

Kasper

Member
#22
#22
How important is it to use that plastic gauge in between the crankshaft and piston rod, I didn't do that, just snugged up the cap bolts as tight as I thought they should be
 
creia

creia

#23
#23
Kasper said:
How important is it to use that plastic gauge in between the crankshaft and piston rod, I didn't do that, just snugged up the cap bolts as tight as I thought they should be
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1. Yes, Plastigauge is important to check clearance. You are looking for .002" to .004" with .003" being ideal.
2. "...snugged up the cap bolts as tight as I thought they should be" does NOT cut it. Use a proper torque wrench and torque them to the proper (published) torque value.
Michael
 
K

Kasper

Member
#24
#24
creia said:
1. Yes, Plastigauge is important to check clearance. You are looking for .002" to .004" with .003" being ideal.
2. "...snugged up the cap bolts as tight as I thought they should be" does NOT cut it. Use a proper torque wrench and torque them to the proper (published) torque value.
Michael
Click to expand...
Ok I'll get that plastigauge, thank you for responding
 
M

mchadsey1

Member
#25
#25
Kasper said:
Will I need to pull out that gear and let that rod come down to det that rod under the ricker
Click to expand...
Are you considering removing the cam to get that pushrod under the rocker ? If you loosen the nut that retains the rocker you can get the pushrod back in place. You will need to check and adjust the valve clearance between the tip of the valve where it meets the rocker shaft. I would recomend watching a couple you tube videos for reference. Good luck
 
K

Kasper

Member
#27
#27
mchadsey1 said:
Are you considering removing the cam to get that pushrod under the rocker ? If you loosen the nut that retains the rocker you can get the pushrod back in place. You will need to check and adjust the valve clearance between the tip of the valve where it meets the rocker shaft. I would recomend watching a couple you tube videos for reference. Good luck
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply, I got that rocker put back without removing it, I pulled the cord slowly and both rockers are moving, I'm hoping that means there in correctly, ya I'm picking up a torque wrench tomorrow and I'll torque the piston rod bolts to spec, I'll have to watch red beards video on using that plastic gauge
 
K

Kasper

Member
#29
#29
Got her running! Set both valves to .1 and got a torque wrench for the rod bolts and flywheel, going to order the 3/4 clutch and I'm in business, thanks to all who replied and helped me
 
K

Kasper

Member
#35
#35
Ya my apologies, .1mm for both, just noticed the bottom steering stem bearing is toast, just ordered a new set. Any tips or tricks to replacing them would be appreciated
 
K

Kasper

Member
#36
#36
creia said:
What was the result?
Michael
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Didn't do the plastic gauge in between crank and rod cap, just torqued to 10 ft lbs, wasn't exactly sure what I would do if I used the gauge, torqued down and got a bad reading or whatever, not sure if there's shims or where they would go and couldn't find much info on it
 
creia

creia

#37
#37
Kasper said:
Didn't do the plastic gauge in between crank and rod cap, just torqued to 10 ft lbs, wasn't exactly sure what I would do if I used the gauge, torqued down and got a bad reading or whatever, not sure if there's shims or where they would go and couldn't find much info on it
Click to expand...
You would be looking for a new crank, new rod, or both...
Michael
 
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