Coleman ct200u ex not returning to closed throttle.

#1
Hi everyone new to the group and just bought a new Coleman ct200u ex. First two days where great the bike ran Great! Well after watching red beards garage on you tube I decided to use a zip tie on the black governor spring and it felt great for another day of riding no issues. After a good full day of running I cleaned her up and put it back in my garage now two days later I jump on the bike and try to go down the road get about 100 yards before the bike dies. Well after digging in her a little bit I realized after giving the bike full throttle unless I manually move the actual
Throttle on the engine it will stay wide open and not return to closed idle position. I removed my handy dandy zip tie thinking maybe Its not letting the throttle return. And still nothing. Any advice on what is going on? Is the silver spring the return spring and could that really already have stretched out I'm just stumped at this point and a tad frustrated. And I absolutely know the zip tie in hindsight was a bad idea but I thought that just controlled the governor. From now on I'm going to do this the rite way but would like to know if y'all have had this issue and what I need to get or fix to put this machine back in the trails thank you in advance.
 
#3
Back to running again I'm guessing it was the silver spring I put a zip tie on if to get the spring tension again (I stretched it trying to re install like a dumby) and she is running again I don't know if it maybe had water in the carb or what from me washing it but now it's running and I'm confused because I don't feel like the throttle is any different while off maybe that arm to the governor only pulls back when running and I've been chasing a ghost and I had water I it. Feel free to chime in and correct me I'm still learning these little motors but I can tottaly say I'm addicted and this site is great for research and seeing and hearing about the awesome builds
 
#5
My throttle is half way open when my bike is off. It closes when I start it. I think this is why you can't just pull the governor off with out modifying the throttle. Look up how to cut coils out of the return spring. It's easier then the zip tie way. It allows for your throttle to open further and you then just adjust the governor speed with the throttle stop screw. Bypassing the governor can destroy the motor though. Look up how to mod the motor for governor removal and do it properly. It requires a few parts get replaced. It costs me about $134 if done on the cheep.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#6
In the original throttle configuration the throttle plate in the carb should be open when the engine is off. This is what makes one handed 1 or 2 pull starts possible when starting with a cold engine choke closed. When the governor is removed and a solid linkage is installed you have to crack the throttle open with your left hand when pulling to start the engine. Otherwise you have both the throttle plate and choke closed.

Imagine trying to start your push lawnmower with the throttle position at idle and the choke closed. Same thing.

This is one of the reasons why I want to remain governed. One handed pull starts. The other reason is that I will not need more than 4500 RPM's. I should be able to get 4500 RPM's with the throttle screw.
 

asdf

New Member
#7
In the original throttle configuration the throttle plate in the carb should be open when the engine is off. This is what makes one handed 1 or 2 pull starts possible when starting with a cold engine choke closed. When the governor is removed and a solid linkage is installed you have to crack the throttle open with your left hand when pulling to start the engine. Otherwise you have both the throttle plate and choke closed.

Imagine trying to start your push lawnmower with the throttle position at idle and the choke closed. Same thing.

This is one of the reasons why I want to remain governed. One handed pull starts. The other reason is that I will not need more than 4500 RPM's. I should be able to get 4500 RPM's with the throttle screw.
What returns the throttle plate back to idle after the bike starts then? I'm having similar issue as above, with the bike running wide open unless I manually move the arm that the spring going to the throttle plate connects to.

Feel like I'm missing a spring somewhere that should pull it shut.

I didn't have a ziptie on my governor. I did take my tank off to dump potentially bad gas and carb off to clean it. Starts now, but then runs full tilt...
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#9
With the original throttle configuration the throttle plate and it's linkage up to the governor "arm" should move toward closed throttle freely without much tension. The throttle rod with the tiny spring around it should be able to be manually moved to closed throttle fairly easy engine off. Carefully inspect that linkage and make sure nothing is restricting its movement. And out of position spark plug wire can do this. Make sure the plug wire is tucked into position in the plastic carb spacer. Once the engine starts airflow through the carb is the only thing there to close the throttle plate in the carb.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#10
With the throttle positioned at idle there shouldn't be a whole lot of tension on the spring that is connected to the governor arm on the engine. The governor should move the throttle to near closed (idle) when the engine starts.
 
#11
Something else to look at, the throttle cable itself. Unhook the cable from the linkage and work the the linkage manually. If it's working correctly you may have a binding throttle cable/twist grip. With the cable unhooked,, twist the throttle, and see how much force it takes to pull the cable back to return the throttle to it's idle position. Remembering all you have is that little return spring to do the same for you.

On mine, I didn't really trust that little spring, so I just went ahead and added a second return spring.
 
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