Ct200u stage 2 kit - anyone try it?

[Dirtyoz]

From OldMiniBikes warehouse

Basically includes angled air filter
Bored out stock carb (jet size and emulsion tube not mentioned)
1" header w/screw on muff
Valve springs (doesn't state spring tension, guessing 18lb)
Choke hold bracket

if this is a worthy kit, I'd like it to work well with a tav clutch.

Anyone?
Oz

 

[DeadPixel]

Not sure why a person would need springs or a bored out carb with the governor still intact. If your looking at keeping the governor I would just get an air filter kit that includes jets and a header you like and see where that puts ya for power. You don't need springs with the stock valve train and governor. I just bought a header for the coleman the other day although it did not have a mount for the muffler which is a simple fix, it was $30 plus shipping. If I am looking at the same kit as you mentioned it is around $140. Gopowersports has a good kit for the CT200U for $70. It dose not have the carb or springs but you don't need those tell you have removed governor. If you get valve springs I would move up to 22LB springs. This will give you more options in the future if you decide to add a mild cam or ratio rockers.

 

[SAS289]

Keep in mind that unless you plan on a fairly radical change in gearing there is no need to pull the governor when using a TAV. With the stock Coleman gearing and a TAV you will run out of engine before the governor reacts to RPM. Especially with that throttle linkage screw removed.

I bet there are plenty of people who are happy with the performance of their bikes who are running a TAV on a nearly bone stock engine. IMO the least expensive decent setup for the Coleman is a TAV, air filter, and rejetting and you are good to go.

 

[Dirtyoz]

Thanks for the input guys. I was wondering about those same issues. When bone stock it struggles on a couple of key hills that I have to go up. I can't get enough speed to get the clutch into lockup. If I do get it locked up the minimum speed I need to maintain is too fast for the road condition.
The bored carb sounds like a cool mod at first, but I usually like to progress with mods in stages, and it seems like the stage 2 kit is taking a big jump.
I've been riding snowmobiles since the 80's and have dealt with primary and driven clutches a lot. Things you could adjust on those were the weight and profile of the primary flyweights, helix ramps and springs in the driven clutch. I don't know if the tav's offer that.
So I'm going to take your advice and start with exhaust, tav and jetting.
Thanks again
Oz

 

[DeadPixel]

I have yet to install my motor back in my bike but I just added a flat top piston. The total swap after shipping was around $30. The piston was $10 and the gasket kit was about $10. I don't know if it is OK but I reused the original rings as motor only had about 30 minutes on it. It took a little bit of time but was way simple to install and is one of those mods that will add power at all RPM ranges and will add power even with the governor installed. Motor sounds slightly meaner. It would also be a good mod to have already installed if you end up installing a cam later. Might be worth tossing in your basket with your next order.

 

[Dirtyoz]

Definitely something to consider. I'll do latter mods I mentioned and see how she goes.
Cams are something I'll have to research at some point. There seems to be a lot of different grinds out there. If there's one thing I've learned, is not to invite a tuning nightmare to your project by changing everything you can think of unless you have a proven recipe that works for your intended use.
Oz

 

[SAS289]

From what you are describing it isn't a question of engine power, it is a question of gearing. I would try a TAV first, then go from there.

 

[Raskin]

I agree with you guys too..a tav will give you useable power..I'd just cut a square hole in the stock airbox fo mo air and get a header w a silencer ..

 

[Dirtyoz]

I think your right Sas. A tav in "low ratio" should be lower than a stock clutch in lockup. Only one way to find out.
Oz

 

[DeadPixel]

Ya the guys are right. Your problem with the hills is your low RPM torque and the best fix is gearing. You could try to modify the motor for little gains but best bet is going to be a TAV. Your first reduction on your jack shaft is 2:1 I remember some one saying the TAV is about 2.7:1 in low range not to long ago.