Custom clutch system
- Thread starter TankforGod3
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- Tags clutch custom manual system
I don't want to use the TAV because parts are expensive and the 30 series on my go kart now eats belts. If I ran this setup on my go kart but I sized the pulleys so in the highest gear in my design would be a 1:1 ratio so it would run about the same speed. It would have a manual clutch and I would have to shift (which I like). This design should not eat belts and the parts shouldn't be too expensive either because their mostly from a lawn mower. So it would kind of be like a manual TAV system and it would keep belt tension except when shifting so it would help keep belts longer. So basicly I don't want to use the TAV because it's expensive and it eats belts that aren't available in stores near my house so I have to order them and pay even more for shipping.
I know some people are probable confused at the way I explained my clutch system. On the shaft I'm going to have a centrifugal belt clutch so I don't have to hold the clutch when it idles and the belt will not slip at an idle, then on my jackshaft I am going to put a variable size pulley so I will have different gear ratios each time I open and close it with my shifter, then I am going to have a very strong spring loaded belt tensioner hooked up to a pedal so when I need to shift I can remove all belt tension and open up the pulley for a smaller ratio and when I release the tensioner it will put tension on the belt so I can keep going. My goal when I thought of this was to make a cheaper, manual TAV that wouldn't slip the belt as much thus extending the life of the belt and if I size everything I can still achieve the same speed as before. I just wanted to you guys to look it over for problems that I may have missed.
as been said, your system should work with the proper parts.
however, i have a problem with my TAV eating belts also. i also found out i am using the wrong belts, Pix, instead of the Comet. the latter belts are $25.00 instead of 3 for $25.00. the Pix also cause the primary to stick.
i haven't ordered the proper belt yet but from others opinions and advice, that should take care of the belt snacks.
here's the thread:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/g...8864-comet-30-series-eating-belts-dinner.html
however, i have a problem with my TAV eating belts also. i also found out i am using the wrong belts, Pix, instead of the Comet. the latter belts are $25.00 instead of 3 for $25.00. the Pix also cause the primary to stick.
i haven't ordered the proper belt yet but from others opinions and advice, that should take care of the belt snacks.
here's the thread:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/g...8864-comet-30-series-eating-belts-dinner.html
Okay guys I've decided I am going to buy a heavy duty centrifugal drive clutch, and the variable pulley is going to be a comet 40 series driven unit, I am going to build a mount with a belt tensioner and hook it up to a shifter so when shift into gear it will put tension on the belt and I can drive then as I drive forward it will shift into the next gear by the tensioner pushing the belt down into the driven unit then when I down shift the tensioner will release some of the belt tension and the variable pulley will close into low gear. The I just realized some more upsides to this setup I can keep in a lower gear for power and with a belt tensioner to shift I can remove all the belt tension and have a neutral gear and rev it up and shift into gear and do burnouts. Right now I'm thinking of setting it up as a 3 speed plus neutral but to do it like that I will have to have a 7" driven unit and my gears will be low (belt at the top of the unit) medium (belt half way down the driven unit) and high (all the way down the driven unit). I may add another belt tensioner as a foot clutch to help with shifting. These components sound good to me and when I get it done I will post about it because it will be a major achievement for me (I'm only 14).
sorry but sounds over-complicated and unnecessary to me. your idea about putting it in "neutral" and revving it and dumping all the power on that belt sound like a good way to tear up a belt, not really sure how you wouldnt tear up the belt using it on a pulley it wasnt designed for, are you going to make a custom front pulley? you are also going to lose half your gearing because the front pulley wont be moving along with the rear.
doing this sounds more expensive than just buying a correct TAV setup. mainly because you will figure out that it doesnt work that well and need to change it anyway. just buy the TAV.
you said you are burning up belts, then something is wrong. fix that, dont make it more complex than it needs to be
just my thoughts
doing this sounds more expensive than just buying a correct TAV setup. mainly because you will figure out that it doesnt work that well and need to change it anyway. just buy the TAV.
you said you are burning up belts, then something is wrong. fix that, dont make it more complex than it needs to be
just my thoughts
Right now I think I'm going to use the 20 series driven unit because as long as I have a v belt that is 3/4" top width It will work with the 20 series. The drive unit is going to be a centrifugal pulley clutch so it always keeps belt tension without taking off. Then because the drive clutch won't pull the belt into the driven I will use the tensioner to put enough belt tension on to pull it down into the driven unit to go faster. I won't rev it up in neutral and shift into gear but I like to have the option to. By shifting I mean putting enough belt tension to pull the belt into the driven pulley. The TAV on the go kart now is how it came from the factory and I run the belts the right belts.
ok if the TAV is how it came from factory and you are using correct belts, then you wouldnt be burning up belts unless you just put way too big a tire on it. something isnt right, alignment maybe, too short of belt, etc.
i understand what you are saying about how you want to build this, but you dont seem to be understanding what we are telling you. a TAV works because the front pulley gets bigger and the rear gets smaller. you are trying to just use the rear moveable pulley and a non moveable front pulley and use a tensioner to take up the slack as the rear changes.... but you are not getting the same gearing range as a TAV because both pulleys arent changing, only one. will get you no better gearing and keeping the problems of centrifugal clutches (dont like low speed lugging, slipping equals burnt clutch)
you are saying you want to do this because it is cheaper then you are wrong, it will cost you more especially in time. it will also not perform as well.. so what is the point in reinventing the wheel? (or pulley rather)
no offense kid, but its a bad idea and you can try it but we have already explained to you why it wont work and why it doesnt make sense. we are all for new ideas that work but this just wont. sorry.
i understand what you are saying about how you want to build this, but you dont seem to be understanding what we are telling you. a TAV works because the front pulley gets bigger and the rear gets smaller. you are trying to just use the rear moveable pulley and a non moveable front pulley and use a tensioner to take up the slack as the rear changes.... but you are not getting the same gearing range as a TAV because both pulleys arent changing, only one. will get you no better gearing and keeping the problems of centrifugal clutches (dont like low speed lugging, slipping equals burnt clutch)
you are saying you want to do this because it is cheaper then you are wrong, it will cost you more especially in time. it will also not perform as well.. so what is the point in reinventing the wheel? (or pulley rather)
no offense kid, but its a bad idea and you can try it but we have already explained to you why it wont work and why it doesnt make sense. we are all for new ideas that work but this just wont. sorry.
I know it won't work the number 1 thing I want is a smarter design for the tav but to keep the performance. I am fed up with my TAV now because total I have about $400 in it thats why I floated this idea around. The design itself of the TAV is stupid the belt slips at an idle which makes it a consumable object the 30 series a symmetrical belt design is stupid when you push the throttle the angled side of the driver pulls up the belt and the other side is almost flat it tries to twist the belt and that also is unnecessary to set it up like that. I would really love the TAV if it was set up like a cvt drive on a 150 gy6 where the belt always keeps tension and everything works reverse. I know my design wouldn't be any better than the TAV probably worse . The idea when I thought up this clutch design was to make something to endure a hard ride over very long periods of time which I know couldn't be done with a centrifugal pulley clutch. They currently don't have anything really better than the TAV out as of now but if a bunch of people like you and me sat down thought out designs and tested them then we could make something better than the TAV something like the CVT drive off a gy6 but for a gx200 or clone. We have a 150 yerf dog with a gy6 and their CVT is 80 times better than a comet 40 series both the clutches are completely tuneable and we have ran one belt on a 600lb go kart that runs 60mph for 10 years and the belt is still un stretched and it's not worn down at all my 280lb go kart with a 30 series the clutches are completely aligned I have a brand new driver clutch a completely rebuilt driver they are both rust free and we have order the belts from where we purchased it the belts are all exactly the same they last about 2hrs of riding. I don't slip the belt on takeoff because if I do the belt will last only 30 minutes. My go kart also has stock gearing 9 tooth drive 60 on the axle and 18" rear tires. our other go kart with a 30 series does the same thing and it has the same gearing but with 16" rear tires. When I couldn't get the factory belt to work I tried other ones. I have used PIX belts and Comet belts we have measured the belts multiple times and we are getting the right size. We have also ran a bunch of Kevlar belts but they don't last any longer than normal. I guess I will be finding an old blown gy6 and pulling the clutches off and trying to bore them to fit a 3/4" shaft and a 5/8" jackshaft.
a comet 30 is a symmetrical belt design, slanted on both sides. comet 20 is assemetrical, has one side flat... sounds like you are using the wrong belt.
again. fix the problem, dont make more. the TAV system is great its been around forever, again if you are burning up all kinds of belts then you have something set up wrong... period.
and while the gy6 is a great design, most are made for 50cc and 150cc engines (yes there are larger scooters but those are the 2 most common gy6) and most of us run 200cc or higher engines. yes it might work (adapting a gy6 trans) but might not hold the power of a larger motor.
again. fix the problem, dont make more. the TAV system is great its been around forever, again if you are burning up all kinds of belts then you have something set up wrong... period.
and while the gy6 is a great design, most are made for 50cc and 150cc engines (yes there are larger scooters but those are the 2 most common gy6) and most of us run 200cc or higher engines. yes it might work (adapting a gy6 trans) but might not hold the power of a larger motor.
oh and the belt slipping at idle? most TAVs use a bronze idler bushing that the belt sits on while idling, the belt was already a consumable item but as jeep said, hes got original belt on one of his and still works fine...
hey man, pictures are worth 1000 words, why dont you take a picture of what you have going on and maybe we can see your problem that you are missing. im guessing from what you said about your TAV is you have a 20 series driver (assemetrical) and maybe a 30 driven and using a 30 belt (sym)?
hey man, pictures are worth 1000 words, why dont you take a picture of what you have going on and maybe we can see your problem that you are missing. im guessing from what you said about your TAV is you have a 20 series driver (assemetrical) and maybe a 30 driven and using a 30 belt (sym)?
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tank -
i applaud your efforts here.
i just bought a tav last week and i am still trying to work
out the math that defines it operation. the flat sheave on
the belt and drive cleave is pretty cool. NOS pointed me
in the right direction on its operation. there are tons of
good threads about tavs here, dig through them.
keep up the good work:thumbsup:
i applaud your efforts here.
i just bought a tav last week and i am still trying to work
out the math that defines it operation. the flat sheave on
the belt and drive cleave is pretty cool. NOS pointed me
in the right direction on its operation. there are tons of
good threads about tavs here, dig through them.
keep up the good work:thumbsup: