E mini bike. Controller problems.

L

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#21
#21
Not knowing exactly how yours is wired, I'm not going into how too test it. Your dealing with a lot of voltage and amperage. Lipo batteries are not something too be playing around with, without the proper know how. The little lipo in your cell phone has enough energy to blow off half your hand. So you can imagine how much energy is in yours. First do some research, learn how to do these types of test. Get a quality meter, if your getting into electrics, your going to need it.

With all that said, if you switched back to the original controller and wiring. Then still have same problem, then I'm thinking motor prob. One easy way to test battery. Get it fully charged, run setup for short time. If it, needs a long time too charge. Then you probably have a bad cell or even 2. If not and your sure you got it wired right, with the original controller, then I would go with a bad motor. Something else to look at, if your soldering connections, cold solder joints can cause surge issues too.
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#22
#22
LIVIT said:
Not knowing exactly how yours is wired, I'm not going into how too test it. Your dealing with a lot of voltage and amperage. Lipo batteries are not something too be playing around with, without the proper know how. The little lipo in your cell phone has enough energy to blow off half your hand. So you can imagine how much energy is in yours. First do some research, learn how to do these types of test. Get a quality meter, if your getting into electrics, your going to need it.

With all that said, if you switched back to the original controller and wiring. Then still have same problem, then I'm thinking motor prob. One easy way to test battery. Get it fully charged, run setup for short time. If it, needs a long time too charge. Then you probably have a bad cell or even 2. If not and your sure you got it wired right, with the original controller, then I would go with a bad motor. Something else to look at, if your soldering connections, cold solder joints can cause surge issues too.
Click to expand...

+1 on the solder joints & conns. ;)

Getting a watt/voltage /ect, meter for R/C stuff,, will show you ''lot's'' also.

You run it ''in line'' between batt. & controller.

You can also just plug it in to the bat. lead, to monitor parasidic voltage drop ect. ect.

Here's a pic of mine.

I
gt-power-180a-watt-meter-and-power-analyzer-motion-rc-29621148713145_1024x1024.jpg
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#24
#24
Here's pics of the 48 - 54.6v - ''Li'' pack & of the elaborate ''BMS'' circuitry, that I put in my Buddies bike.

Cut the case off & wrapped it in clear Gorilla tape,, so it would fit in the alum. fixture I designed & made,, plus for cooling.;)

As you can see with the 6 fets on the board,, it also gives it a bit of regenerative function. :cool:

Have this pack in the Wifey's MM-1000 also.

These packs are originally for mobility scooters.

100_6721.JPG 100_6725.JPG 100_6726.JPG
 
Last edited:
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#25
#25
Nathan, I just put up a fresh post in my MM-E-1000 thread,, on what page & post to look at,, about explaining the wiring & switching the phase & Hall wires.

Check it out. ;)
 
Last edited:
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#26
#26
Added,,

If your phase wires don't have ''bullet conns'',, you need to get some ''gold plated'' 5.5mil ones, & solder those on,, with also using shrink tubing over them.;)
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#31
#31
Haha alright I’ll get some pics!
Both motor, controller, and battery were under warranty, so I’m getting a replacement motor, and decided to opt for a 60v 40 amp battery so it’ll be putting out 3015 watts peak. But my controller is rated for 3000 so it should be good.
I’ll keep everyone updated. Mostly gonna be waiting for my battery but it’s too muddy to ride around here for another couple months anyway haha. I’m building this bike for my gf and if I like the setup I’m gonna go with a 72 volt battery for mine, so a bit more power.
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#36
#36
Generally Sine wave controllers are very good.

Why are you running that in the mud though....

Just asking for it,, with that being electric.
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#37
#37
I74 said:
Generally Sine wave controllers are very good.

Why are you running that in the mud though....

Just asking for it,, with that being electric.
Click to expand...
It’s mostly sand, but yeah I’m mainly gonna be riding on asphalt other than test riding in the dirt around my house.
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#38
#38
So still waiting on battery but got a temporary power source hooked up. Got controller programmed however it’s registering in the controller that feedback from throttle is 1.5 volts regardless of if I twist throttle it just stays put. But weird thing is when I test the signal wire, it reads .84 volts and gradually goes to 4.5 volts at full throttle.
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#40
#40
Controller ''Hall'' signal voltage sounds about right.

Main throttle hot wire should be the same voltage as the batt.,, @ least on all the ones I have messed with.

Am guessing your power switch is on that too ?

I'd be checking for pinched wires ect. next,, & also check & make sure that throttle ''specs'' match with the voltages you are running, & is suitable.

I
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top