First Minibike & Engine Swap - Need Help

[Hannibal]

Or just put a little more oil in it. You will have no problem if you don't go nuts.

Bro, it's super maxxed out with oil. I put two quarts of 10 30w in it. I think the capacity is 1/2 quart....So, I've got that base covered for at least the next two or three years....

 

[mustangfrank]

Bro, it's super maxxed out with oil. I put two quarts of 10 30w in it. I think the capacity is 1/2 quart....So, I've got that base covered for at least the next two or three years....

Please tell us you are kidding

 

[Hannibal]

Please tell us you are kidding

"Gotta keep ya guessing"... Clint Eastwood

 

[Hannibal]

If I were you I would not install the stage1 kit, you want reliability and your using it for hunting and emergency's. You'll have an open pipe and open air filter and you'll have to learn how to jet it. Do you really think a straight pipe is a good Idea for hunting? The bike will likely be in the weather so I don't think an open foam filter will be your friend. You should learn the basics of small engines and maintenance especially of the carburetor before you modify it. The stock motor makes good power and should do what you need it to do. A good quality torque converter and good gearing would get you further for your needs IMHO. Use nylock nuts on your bike. Regardless I hope you have fun with your bike!

Apologies... It appears that I may have been wrong in my assumption that a header pipe was necessary for the installation of a USDA approved spark arrester. The stock muffler comes with a removable spark arrester, though it is not USDA approved. USDA approved spark arresters are available from retailers such as Cycle Gear in the $30 to $50 range and could easily be substituted for the factory arrester with little modification. The decrease in power due to the absence of a pipe could unfortunately not be overcome.... Thanx again....

 

[toomanytoys]

I had to remove the oil sensor because every time I went up a steep hill or turned sharply the engine would cut off. Properly filled with oil but then again my bike sees more than just bopping around the yard.

 

[Hannibal]

I had to remove the oil sensor because every time I went up a steep hill or turned sharply the engine would cut off. Properly filled with oil but then again my bike sees more than just bopping around the yard.

I'll have to remove the sensor on mine as well for the same reason. Hopefully I won't wire anything improperly in my attempt to use the handlebar mounted kill switch on my bike...

 

[Charles S]

New engines never come with oil in them. There might be a bit of residual from them being run at the factory, but that's it. They always need to be filled. I've bought new 5.5 clones, 6.5 clones and 212 Predator engines and that's always been the case.

Many years ago I sold a new in the box 6.5 clone to some kid. He texted me saying I sold him a bad engine that blew up shortly after he installed it. I asked if he put oil in it and he said no. He had no idea these engines don't come with oil in them. He went from being pissed at me to "aww fuck" pretty quick.

According to an official Lifan document I once read, Lifan engines come with "shipping oil" in them. It stated that the shipping oil is to prevent rust during shipping/storage and is not suitable for lubrication. It also stated that failure to replace the shipping oil with specified motor oil before starting the engine would void the warranty. Lifan is a big manufacturer, I wouldn't be surprised if some other manufacturers also put shipping oil in their engines. I would drain anything that's in an engine and put fresh oil in it, at minimum, before starting it.

 

[Charles S]

I had to remove the oil sensor because every time I went up a steep hill or turned sharply the engine would cut off. Properly filled with oil but then again my bike sees more than just bopping around the yard.

Removing it increases the sump capacity a little bit, a good thing. The purpose of the low oil sensor/shut-down, I imagine, is to protect stationary engines that are left running unattended for extended periods, or simply neglected. For minibike use, just check the oil level before each ride, just as most of us check the oil on our lawnmowers and other equipment before each use, the sensor isn't needed.

 

[Hannibal]

Instead of removing the factory air box, installing the adapter, and then adding the filter with the Stage 1 kit, could I simply leave the air box intact, remove the top cover, and factory filter, then install the Stage 1 filter with a suitable clamp to the air tube that the factory filter was connected to? The larger Stage 1 filter would remain uncovered of course and offer better airflow. Rather than extending out beyond the frame, the Stage 1 filter would be located in the same position as the original factory filter. If this is practical (and I do have an appropriate rubber tube which fits the air flow tube and the Stage 1 kit filter) would the performance be similar to the carburetor adapter clamp on filter mod? Would I also need a new jet ( which I have)?... Thanx again