Getting a Baja Warrior up to 50?

[Mindhacker]

My goal for my warrior is 50, so I can hang with my friends who have gy6 (150cc) scooters while looking cooler than them.

Currently: 40mph (gps'd)
+ TC2 torque converter
+ air filter made of a car's paper filter in stock case w/ holes drilled
+ exhaust made from an old 2-stroke muffler (not the expansion chamber, just the secondary muffler)
+ 92 jet (89 jet was running lean, about 22 or 23 on this chart: plug chart)

Goals:
+ 50mph with reasonable acceleration
+ Lighting circuit
+ Quieter than a straight exhaust
+ $300 budget

The bike is drag-limited too, not governor-limited, otherwise I'd add some billet parts and then see where I was at. Part of the problem is I bought the bike used so I have no idea how old it is or what sort of life it's lead.

Any suggestions?

 

[Mindhacker]

I'm thinking a 420clone w/ electric start. I'll have to have the shaft turned down but other than that it should work, right?

Anyone have any idea of the acceleration of a 420 w/ jackshaft vs 200 w/ tc2? I feel like doubling the power would eat belts.

 

[Neck]

RD400 engine! WOOOOWHOOOOO

 

[Mindhacker]

I'd love to, but it's out of my price range. Maybe not 300, but 500 tops.

 

[MikeBear]

My goal for my warrior is 50, so I can hang with my friends who have gy6 (150cc) scooters while looking cooler than them.

Currently: 40mph (gps'd)
+ TC2 torque converter
+ air filter made of a car's paper filter in stock case w/ holes drilled
+ exhaust made from an old 2-stroke muffler (not the expansion chamber, just the secondary muffler)
+ 92 jet (89 jet was running lean, about 22 or 23 on this chart: plug chart)

Goals:
+ 50mph with reasonable acceleration
+ Lighting circuit
+ Quieter than a straight exhaust
+ $300 budget

The bike is drag-limited too, not governor-limited, otherwise I'd add some billet parts and then see where I was at. Part of the problem is I bought the bike used so I have no idea how old it is or what sort of life it's lead.

Any suggestions?

I suggest that you replace ALL the junk Chinese bolts and nuts that will easily break. If you haven't already that is. It would be horrible for the bike to fall into pieces at 50+ mph. I hear about these bikes breaking bolts and such all the time. Or, they just unscrew, and fall out.

 

[Moedog07]

Update the brake too. The brake on my Warrior is marginal at stock speeds.

 

[RobK]

Top speed won't change unless you change the gearing. The larger engine is still going to turn the sam RPM with the governor on. I just built a Honda GX200 with flat piston, 14cc head, mild cam, billet flywheel, connecting rod, etc. And no governor of course. I'll get it mounted tomorrow and see how fast it goes.

 

[Mindhacker]

But the larger engine will be torquey enough that a gearing change will actually raise my top speed, unlike now.

I'm thinking:
+ 420cc engine
+ hydraulic front brake from a scooter
+ rear sprocket with 2/3rds the teeth
+ new axle bolts

 

[paul_probus]

You may want to upgrade the wheel bearings. Not familiar with the BW to know if it has decent wheel bearings (or you may have already done that).

Paul

 

[YOOP]

i'm thinking a 420clone w/ electric start. .

why go with electric start? Lighter is faster

 

[RobK]

But the larger engine will be torquey enough that a gearing change will actually raise my top speed, unlike now.

I'm thinking:
+ 420cc engine
+ hydraulic front brake from a scooter
+ rear sprocket with 2/3rds the teeth
+ new axle bolts

True, but that engine will be 40 pounds heavier, and it's wider to boot. At least the GX390 and clones are. You'll have to modify the mounting plate and deal with the added weight. I considered it, but decided to go with mods to a GX200.

 

[Mindhacker]

@yooper: Electric start so I can keep all the running lights. Working turn signals has given it enough credibility to keep the police from hassling me so far.

@Paul: Bearings is a great idea. I know my soapboxing club has a few left over that I could grab!

@Rob: Wider, longer, or both? (Lets say longer is tire-to-tire when mounted, and wider is footpeg to footpeg).

 

[Neck]

Lighter is quicker! He'll still go fast, just take longer to get there, and slow down!

 

[Newoldstock]

@yooper: Electric start so I can keep all the running lights. Working turn signals has given it enough credibility to keep the police from hassling me so far.

@Paul: Bearings is a great idea. I know my soapboxing club has a few left over that I could grab!

@Rob: Wider, longer, or both? (Lets say longer is tire-to-tire when mounted, and wider is footpeg to footpeg).

Electric start is eye candy you don't need.
Bearings need to be replaced often if they get wet/muddy use the search function I posted a lot of info on bearings. Change them all from wheels to jack shaft and use a a 2rs or double lip seal 6203 jack shaft and I thinks 6202 wheel.
Use a longer chain and move the rear wheel back.
Use a 20-8-8 tyre and some sprokect stand offs.
Make stronger foot pegs from 5/8 bolts.

 

[RobK]

The base bolt pattern is about an inch larger in both directions. It looks one set of holes is slotted, so you might have a little wiggle room. However, the 420cc engine is 4" wider from the tip of the crank to the recoil. I think you'd have to bias the engine to the right to make the clutch and wheel line up. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. All the specs and dimensions are on the HF web site.

 

[Neck]

Electric start is eye candy you don't need.
Bearings need to be replaced often if they get wet/muddy use the search function I posted a lot of info on bearings. Change them all from wheels to jack shaft and use a a 2rs or double lip seal 6203 jack shaft and I thinks 6202 wheel.
Use a longer chain and move the rear wheel back.
Use a 20-8-8 tyre and some sprokect stand offs.
Make stronger foot pegs from 5/8 bolts.

I know somebody that's about to turn 70 that will argue with you on this one!

 

[TT]

Cliff,

Are you starting trouble again? We don't talk about the word "seventy." Do we? Cool it man. I am never going to hear the end of this...:hammer:

TT

 

[Neck]

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

 

[Mindhacker]

The base bolt pattern is about an inch larger in both directions. It looks one set of holes is slotted, so you might have a little wiggle room. However, the 420cc engine is 4" wider from the tip of the crank to the recoil. I think you'd have to bias the engine to the right to make the clutch and wheel line up. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. All the specs and dimensions are on the HF web site.

I have welder and access to a drill press if I need it, so I'll be able to mount it. And it sounds like it will be big, but fit. Thanks for the info!

Electric start is eye candy you don't need.
Bearings need to be replaced often if they get wet/muddy use the search function I posted a lot of info on bearings. Change them all from wheels to jack shaft and use a a 2rs or double lip seal 6203 jack shaft and I thinks 6202 wheel.
Use a longer chain and move the rear wheel back.
Use a 20-8-8 tyre and some sprokect stand offs.
Make stronger foot pegs from 5/8 bolts.

Thanks for the bearing part numbers. It's 1am and I just got back from my a car show on my bike, and a battery operated light sounds really nice like now. This "getting dark when you slow down for the corners" thing is annoying!

Pegs have already been rebuilt, might be re-rebuilt, and I'll look into the wheel stuff.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Might not be the perfect answer, but it sounds like it will work, so I'm gonna give it a shot!

 

[Mindhacker]

Update: The 420 clone had electric start but no charging coil, not even anywhere to mount one. So I'm gonna pull the electric start, convert all the lights to LED, and run off batteries. Eventually.