Has Anyone Powder Coated a Vintage Gas Tank?

#1
I have a round style gas tank like the one used on the bonanza and other vintage mini bikes. I would like to powder coat it but I don’t know how the seam was joined, soldered, brazed or otherwise. Powder coating temp is around 400 degrees and if it is brazed I’m sure I’m OK but solder could be risky. Does anyone have experience with this?
 

colt 1911

Active Member
#2
I have a round style gas tank like the one used on the bonanza and other vintage mini bikes. I would like to powder coat it but I don’t know how the seam was joined, soldered, brazed or otherwise. Powder coating temp is around 400 degrees and if it is brazed I’m sure I’m OK but solder could be risky. Does anyone have experience with this?
the guy i use won't do any gas tank because of the heat risk
 

Ding Ding

Well-Known Member
#5
I had a Speedway tank powder coated. I was most worried about the bung for the fuel valve coming loose than the tank sealing at the seam. The bung seemed fine afterword, however, I coated the tank with Kreem so I can't say for sure if there was any issues from the heat.
 
#7
Thanks for the advice, I think I ‘ll pass on trying it. I have a another tank I chromed for my project, this was just to have a spare larger tank and to try out my new powder coating setup. I found an old oven on Craigslist for $20 and made this powder coating station with some stuff I had laying around. The booth is made from an old propane bottle cover off my travel trailer. I got a pair of cheap bathroom fans at Lowe’s and mounted them in a wood backing support. A thin furnace filter was cut to fit behind the fan covers. The table top is thin piece of OSB with 4 runners to fit the recesses of the stove top and 1 down the center for reinforcement this keeps it from sliding. I added a block under the right side of the top to mount the power supply box and a gun holder out of scrap metal. I opted to use a cheap Harbor freight Oil-Free Pancake Air Compressor with a curly hose and a disposable moisture filter at the gun. The whole thing rolls around on a HF wooden dolly. As a safety measure I plan to remove the burner knobs or drill holes in them and insert a small removable rod to connect them. My first attempt at powder coating was an under the seat tank bracket for my Bonanza. The setup works great, power coat on top and move the part directly to the oven. The fans pull in the unused powder very well and what isn’t stopped by the filter is blown out the back and out of the shop.

1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#8
I powder coat gas tanks all the time. Have done Speedway and Rupp mostly. But also Gemini and Broncco tanks too.

Yes they are soldered. and yes the solder does melt at 400 degrees. But you can take some precautions and it's not a problem. Before i was doing my own powder coating, i would have my "regular PC guy" do tanks all the time, with no special work on his part.

what I do is TIG tack weld soldered parts on the tank. Anything that's soldered (aside from the center seam), gets a TIG weld tack. That includes the mounting bracket, the 1/4 NPT bung plate, and the filler neck. Also always powder coat the tank upside down (bung up). Doing this i have had no problem with powdercoating gas tanks. I've probably done no less than 20 Rupp tanks and 20 Speedway tanks, and some other brands here and there.

Another trick is to make sure the tank (upside down) is level. This way when the solder melts, it won't run off. It just pools. Then after the oven bake, let it cool level too. The solder will solidify and all is good. And even if the solder does run, usually it just flakes off after cooling without any damage to the powder.

As for baking the powder at lower temps... If you can convince your PC guy to bake at 350 to 375 that is helpful. But frankly they nearly always use 400 degree, whether you ask or not for a lower temp. So when i was sending out gas tanks for powdercoat, I stopped asking for the lower temp.

Now realize i usually seal the tanks after powder coating. But not so much because of the powder coat. Mostly because they are just old gas tank and nearly always have rust inside. So when i'm sandblasting the outside, I usually blast the inside too. Then I use POR-15 after the powder coating. It's a safety precaution I take so there aren't any problems. But frankly I've powder coated a ton of Rupp tanks without sealing them.

For example, all these Speedways I just powder coated, including the gas tanks. And these are "illusion" colors, which means that they are powder coated *twice* (once for the color, and once for the clear.)
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/speedway_frames_pc1.jpg

I should also note that the Speedway gas tanks which were powdercoated in the above picture link had significant dents. They were filled with JB Weld, and then sanded to shape. You can powdercoat JB weld (at least the 24hr dry version, I have not tried the 5 minute JB weld.) The trick though is to pre-heat the gas tank before powdercoating it. I put the tank in the oven and pre-heat it to about 350 degrees, and then powdercoat it while it's still hot. This works really well if you have tank dents that need to be filled. You can powder coat JB weld cold too. But I've had some colors that this did not work well. So pre-heating the tank before powder coating seems to be a better idea.
 
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#10
Thanks cfh, those are some great tips and tricks. I think l’m going to try it after I have a little more experience with powder coating, I’ve only coated 1 part so far but I’m happy with the results. Once your setup it’s easy to do and much less hassle than paint. I also use POR-15 to seal the tanks. I’ve been using white vinegar to deal with the rust inside the tank. I thought about sand blasting inside but didn’t know how to go about it effectively in tight spaces. How do your deal with this and what media do you use?
 
#12
If anyone has any experience with 5 minute JB weld and powder coat, please post here. thank you
Heat- wise it "should" be OK as the "regular" JB Weld is rated to 500 degrees. They also make a high temp JB weld. 100% agreed with colt 1911 as far as contact with fuel- No go, as my personal experience has proven.
Michael
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#13
I powder coated a Speedway gas tank today. Here's some pictures and explanations...

In this picture the JB Weld (original formula 24hr dry time) has been applied and sanded to fill the tank dents (blue circle). The blue arrow is where I tack TIG welded the filler neck to the body of the tank. You must do this because the filler neck is soldered in place.
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/powdergas1.jpg

Next I tack welded the bottom mount bracket and the petcock bung. This prevents them from falling off during powder coat, if the solder melts.
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/powdergas2.jpg

Now the tank is ready for pre-heat. I put it in the powdercoat oven, getting it to about 300 to 350 degrees. After that happens, the gas tank is removed from the oven and the powdercoat applied while the gas tank is still hot. Then the gas tank is put back in the oven to bake at 375 to 400 degrees for 20 minutes.
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/powdergas3.jpg

And here's the final picture with the powder coat applied. It's a prismatic color called Cosmic Teal # 2228, about $15 a pound. It's metallic but no clear coat is required (so no second oven bake needed.) Though my JB weld body work is far from perfect, overall i'm happy. This color covered the JB weld quite well. Originally the dents on the front side of the tank (looks like from fork smashes) are filled, and the tank is ready for POR-15 sealant (the inside was media blasted.)
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/p/powdergas4.jpg
 
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cfh

Well-Known Member
#15
The worst leakage potential is the soldered-in Bung hole plate for the 1/8" NPT gas outlet. Lately i've just been fully TIG welding that sucker in place. It avoids most leakage issues.
 
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