Help with coleman mini

SAS289

Active Member
#21
Made the spring and adjusted the throttle cable at the engine side and have the throttle cable soaking some lube up. View attachment 264034 View attachment 264033
The spring in the picture I sent was made out of a longer spring I trimmed to fit. If you want the correct spring you can order one from Honda part # 16592-ZE1-810

The spring was included on clones for years. Coleman just chose the push type worm spring for throttle return. IMO 2 throttle return springs are better than 1 as long as it doesn't make the throttle too tight.
 
#22
The spring in the picture I sent was made out of a longer spring I trimmed to fit. If you want the correct spring you can order one from Honda part # 16592-ZE1-810

The spring was included on clones for years. Coleman just chose the push type worm spring for throttle return. IMO 2 throttle return springs are better than 1 as long as it doesn't make the throttle too tight.
I was thinking on buying the honda part but the one I cut to fit works just as well.
 
#23
I know it's not a predator, but they are both clone engines...if it's still sticky...I'd be willing to bet that pivot point shown in your picture for throttle lever has a wavy washer sandwiched in there for fixed throttle applications.
I'm going to check that out. If anything I will lube up the lever mechanism.
 
#26
That nut controls the friction on the throttle butterfly and how much effort is needed to close the valve. If the nut is too tight, it is difficult for the smaller springs to close the throttle when you back off of the throttle grip.
You should be able to move the "arm" one the plate with just a little effort. Too loose and the throttle will jump to wide open with little twisting of the grip and feel like there is no resistance. With just enough friction caused by the nut, the throttle will open and close smoothly with just a little help of the springs and you will have a nice feed-back to the throttle grip.
 
#27
That nut controls the friction on the throttle butterfly and how much effort is needed to close the valve. If the nut is too tight, it is difficult for the smaller springs to close the throttle when you back off of the throttle grip.
You should be able to move the "arm" one the plate with just a little effort. Too loose and the throttle will jump to wide open with little twisting of the grip and feel like there is no resistance. With just enough friction caused by the nut, the throttle will open and close smoothly with just a little help of the springs and you will have a nice feed-back to the throttle grip.
Good point. I'll make sure to tighten it just enough after cleaning and lubricating. Bike sat for months without use and cleaning the carburetor was the first thing I did. She idles great and starts first pull. Its a 2016 model and didn't get used often. Original tires still like new.
 
#29
You might try installing an intake restrictor plate. Basically a carb gasket with a smaller hole in it...

Not sure what, if any, additional tuning is required, but they aren't very expensive to try.

https://www.bmikarts.com/Restrictor-Plates-for-196cc-Clone-Engines_p_165.html
You might try installing an intake restrictor plate. Basically a carb gasket with a smaller hole in it...

Not sure what, if any, additional tuning is required, but they aren't very expensive to try.

https://www.bmikarts.com/Restrictor-Plates-for-196cc-Clone-Engines_p_165.html
Not much info on the site but less air intake should require less fuel. Will do more research on it.
 

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