how do you make a spacer to keep a torque converter out of overdrive?.

joshua. c.

Active Member
before I begin this is what I currently am working with. I have a bike and a trike with torque converters and un governed modified engines and I'm trying to get the most speed out of my current setup. I already upped the engagement to 3100 using the white garter springs for the driver and installed the stiffer yellow spring in the driven on the stiffest setting. on both and I have a set of the lighter cast aluminum weights to try that I just need to order the correct springs for. I currently am useing the 6 inch drivens and may swich to the 7 inch at some point because I hear they allow the engine to rev better.

on the main topic: I have read you can get more speed out of the setup by making a spacer that keeps the clutches out of overdrive and I've read a few posts where people claim they've done it. but I haven found a good description or any pictures of what these should look like and where they should go. I could try to figure it out but I don't want to get it wrong and brake something. also the engagement chart mentions mod aluminum driver weights that are even lighter at 90 grams but I cant find a source for those.

If anyone has a set of these pleas post a picture of them and a description of how they work. I'm sure I'm not the only one this will help.
The Monster Moto / Mega Moto MM-B212 Pro Series had a "speed limit spacer" that was simply a ring that fit over the bronze bushing of the driver, it limited how far the driver sheaves could close, thus limiting ratio change. The width of the ring would determine how close the sheaves would get to each other. What about a gearing change (larger rear sprocket) that would allow your engine to rev higher while retaining the full ratio range of your TAV?
Those aluminum weights totally changed my bike for the better. Worth every penny.
I ended up going with the black springs with those

sorry i don’t know about the spacer


Well-Known Member
josh , i'm assuming your trying this on your three wheeler your racing with? if you really what your torque converter to work at it's best. I would dump that 30 series 6 inch driven and go with a 7inch 20series setup, so both sides of the belt are working. now if you want to win I would go with a good clutch setup and have it geared so the engine is pulling correct amount of rpm's the cam made for. for example if your cam a 4000-7000+ power band. then make sure it's pulling just about it's max rpm right before you let up on it going back into the corner. ideally you want the engine only going down to 3300-3500+(right above your stall springs) so when you get back on the bike it pulls hard right back up to 7000+. with a clutch setup you are now creating a direct drive and will not have any slippage when accelerating. not like a torque converter will. also with a direct drive you are now using the engine to help brake the bike when going back into the corner. not like a torque converter. when you let up on a torque converter/engine you are now kind of putting the torque converter in neutral and the split second your engine is waiting for it to engage again the guy next to you with clutch setup is now passing you. clutch still doesn't mean your going to win. it takes a lot of different things to make it all come together right.
On one of the Facebook groups, there is a person who makes the spacer that doesn’t allow the driver to go into overdrive. He had them for sale, I don’t remember what group.
thanks for the advice but i would like to see this setups full potential realized before deciding to switch to a clutch. and from what you guys said the mmb 212 has a spacer over the bushing to prevent the clutch from fully engaging. so if i bought one of those I could cut it down to only prevent overdrive engagement. that might just be the ticket. now dose anyone know where to find a source for the mod aluminum 90 gram weights?. the less rotational mass the bike has the better. I might even cut holes in the rear sprocket to reduce weight further. and I had thought about making a different cam for the driven to further slow the up shift. but I'd have to have somone else make that, I dont have the training or equipment to do it myself.
On one of the Facebook groups, there is a person who makes the spacer that doesn’t allow the driver to go into overdrive. He had them for sale, I don’t remember what group.
sorry, i didn't notice this post earlier. I don't have a Facebook account and never will, that type of personal info sharing just isn't for me. not to mention the insane data collecting Facebook dose on there members.(pages upon pages) so even if I found the group I couldn't make contact unless a phone number or email address was listed but thank you for the info.