how do you make a spacer to keep a torque converter out of overdrive?.

cfh

Well-Known Member
#21
I pretty much have that same problem you describe above. the yellow spring didn't help me much either.
the juggernaut really fixed all my problems. i just want to get a comet set up that works better though. but there may not be a way to do that. changing the springs/weights only seems to effect the from-dead-stop engagement, and not from low to high speed engagement.
 
#22
I pretty much have that same problem you describe above. the yellow spring didn't help me much either.
the juggernaut really fixed all my problems. i just want to get a comet set up that works better though. but there may not be a way to do that. changing the springs/weights only seems to effect the from-dead-stop engagement, and not from low to high speed engagement.
Ok. Same over here with the juggernaut.
For the low to high speed engagement with a stock driver, I think the outboard sheave should have another shape. Now it is pretty much a straight line where the weights travel, but it might work better if it's rounded. With the weights having to push harder the further they travel.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#24
great that you guys try different things to help fix the problem that you get with a comet unit,but at the end of the day comet unit is just not made for these new performance engines that are being built today. funny you can go way back into some of my threads and see how I talk about how great the jr drag 340 salsbury unit was and there would be a market if someone came back out with it. someone must of been listing. in a round about way they built the juggernaut. still not as good as the jr drag 340 unit,but it did fix most of the problems that people where getting with the comet unit.
remember when I say jr drag 340,thats different then the stock 340 unit they made.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#25
What I find interesting about this is the series20 versus the series30. I don’t have any problems with high performance motors and a clone series20. Right out of the box it seems to work pretty much perfectly, at least for me. A big Cam high rev’ing tecumseh HS50 and a comet clone stock series20, no problems. It’s the series30 that I have problems.

And I think you’re right. I’m not sure will be able to solve the problems with the comet or the comet clone. It’s really looking like a juggernaut is the way to go. It’s just so expensive... and big...
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#26
I too seem to find little better luck with a 20 series when it comes to belt not slipping with a hp motor. it does help having two sides of the belt grabbing over the 30 series only having one side working. think another reason why they built the juggernaut into a 30 series design so the rear driven would face out. on a 20 it needs to face inward or some how make it float so the belt stays aline when fully engage and as we know most bikes today are built around a 30 series and even some vintage stuff too. I do use a belt made by belt palace for a 30 series on my fox thunderbolt and been holding good. better then any other belt I have seen so far. but that too cost little more$$
they say if you want to win it will cost you$$$.....lol
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#27
they could easily make the juggernaut a series20 driver. it would require a different fixed sheave, but nothing else. Not sure there's demand for that though.
 
#28
+1 on the Juggernaut. I held off for quite some time building my 196 clone much past "stage one" because I never could get the Comet clone or Genuine Comet Driver to play nicely. I was using the yellow driven spring in the tightest hole (that was fun) on a 7" driven with white springs in the driver. Worked for a bit but wore out the weights and hub very quickly and needed lots of cleaning/dry lube to keep working properly and stretched the springs out fairly quickly. I think I was eating parts because the bike (Baja) is geared very low, 9/70, which allows the engine to rev quickly and sling the weights out hard and fast, only to be restricted by the tight yellow driven spring. The Jugger looked so good, I went ahead and ordered a Tillotson 212r to go with it. Works great! If it holds up, I'll be very pleased. Here I am makeing a few laps in the field. I was taking it easy on the jumps and wheelies. If I try it'll carry the front wheel quite some distance. In my opinion, the 30 series is probably fine for a governed motor, but isn't up to much more than that.

 
#29
I may be missing something, but the problem is that the driven clutch engages too early.
how is keeping the driver from closing achieving that?
if you want to stay out of overdrive, why would you want to keep the driven pulley from getting wider, when you really want to keep the driven from getting wider? isn’t preventing the driver from opening completely keeping the driver “big” and lowering the ratio?
and both sides of a 30 belt work, they are just different angles is all. It’s not like one side is angled and the other side is straight.
i haven’t had the problems you guys are having with the 30 series.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#30
I may be missing something, but the problem is that the driven clutch engages too early.
how is keeping the driver from closing achieving that?
if you want to stay out of overdrive, why would you want to keep the driven pulley from getting wider, when you really want to keep the driven from getting wider? isn’t preventing the driver from opening completely keeping the driver “big” and lowering the ratio?
and both sides of a 30 belt work, they are just different angles is all. It’s not like one side is angled and the other side is straight.
i haven’t had the problems you guys are having with the 30 series.
try building a 15hp+up clone motor that whats to spin 8000 rpms with a light billet aluminum flywheel and then you will see how long a comet 30 series last or better yet,maybe mount it on you race flatty without the third support bearing and get back with us.
I would say it's pretty safe to say with any clone motor with a billet flywheel and turn high rpm's is going to have problems with a comet 30 series
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#31
Mass you're definitely missing something. but that's OK because you have a good set up that you're happy with. that's all you need!

to me, just putting the juggernaut driver on the bike and having ALL my torque converter problems go away told me the problem was not the driven side...
 
#33
try building a 15hp+up clone motor that whats to spin 8000 rpms with a light billet aluminum flywheel and then you will see how long a comet 30 series last or better yet,maybe mount it on you race flatty without the third support bearing and get back with us.
I would say it's pretty safe to say with any clone motor with a billet flywheel and turn high rpm's is going to have problems with a comet 30 series
so maybe it’s ok for ppl with 5-10 hp?

i don’t run clones so I wouldn’t know about that.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#34
my personally opinion on running a 30 series on the safe side would be any engine with a heavy aluminum flywheel or cast iron flywheel that stays under 4000 rpm's.
got to remember when comet built this unit(50 yrs ago) it was design for that type of engine. not the type of engine that are being built today and when people started to hot rod them back in the day, for example: jr dragsters they came out with a 340 salsbury jr dragster torque converter that was design to handle 8500 rpm's.
i know talk a lot about the jr 340 salsbury and how great it is. good example how well it has been for me in the pass i use this setup on a built ohh-tecumseh and race against clone engines and some where built stronger then my Tecumseh and some of these guys just didn't get it and wonder how i was pulling them at the line. it wasn't the engine doing the work. it was my 340 unit with 3800 rpm stall setup and geared to pull 8000+ rpm's at 125 ft(finish line). that was a fun bike to ride. pull the front wheel off the ground about 4-5 inch's for the first 5-7ft just about everytime at the starting line. something you just can't get out of a 30 series and hold up.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#35
i've done direct comparisons of the Comet and the Clone, on the exact same bike. Frankly i can't tell any difference! so you might as well save the money...

That said, you can buy a series30 clone drive off ebay for $20 to $30 (shipped). for $55 you can get an entire clone kit (drive/driven/belt/mount/cover, shipped). that's what makes it so appealing.

Unfortunately you can't get that deal for a series20 clone. But it's pretty easy to convert a series30 driver to a series20 driver. But you have to spend $30 for the part to do it (which is effectively more than the cost of the entire series30 driver!) and you still have to get a different belt.

At one point you could get a series20 driver off ebay for $30 shipped from AutoZone. but they sold out, and don't appear to want to restock. bummer. But this still doesn't solve the Series30 issues... you can't just swap a series20 and a series30 system (usually).

bottom line... if i could come up with a series30 solution "on the cheap" i would definitely do that. The juggernaut, at $90, is a lot of money... effectively 3x the cost of a comet system. that's why i'm trying to find a comet solution. But Del may be right... you can't fix this Comet system.

I will say the comet series30 clone works *great* on a stock HS50 that turns under 4000rpm. It's when you want to zoom that up, problems occur.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#36
Got some more springs and tried them out with the Chinese series30 and Tecumseh HS50 motor with big cam and big carb

My little experiment has shown that the aluminum weights with pink springs seem to work best for me. It’s not perfect. The juggernaut is definitely still a better system. But this got close to that for less money. I was also using the yellow spring on the Driven

After you buy all the springs the price is getting close to the juggernaut. It’s probably just better to buy a Juggernaut frankly
 
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