How to get crankshaft pulley off of engine

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#2
My 3HP Briggs used to be on a McLane edger and still has the crankshaft pulley on it. How do I get it off?
Pics are helpful...usually there are a couple allen set screws holding them on or sometimes a bolt in the end of the crank. Good penetrant, torch (on the pulley only), gear puller and/or a little luck in some combination should do the trick.
 

old shed finds

Well-Known Member
#3
We do need pics .
Some late model of these edges did have a 2 piece pulley and bolt in center...after removed it only has 3" or less crankshaft left.
 
#4
We removed the Allen bolt today and the pulley still isn't coming off. Is there a special key needed to get it off, and it may be a weird question now but will a stock doodlebug clutch work after I get the pulley off?
 
#5
Spray it down good with PB Blaster, or your choice of penetrating oil, spray it again tomorrow.

Then take a pulley puller to it. Most auto parts stores carry them. I believe mine was less than $20.

And yes, unless someone really messed up your pto shaft, you should be fine.
 
#6
Spray it down good with PB Blaster, or your choice of penetrating oil, spray it again tomorrow.

Then take a pulley puller to it. Most auto parts stores carry them. I believe mine was less than $20.
That is EXACTLY what we used and did! PB Blaster, so now we need a crappy little puller?
 
#7
That is EXACTLY what we used and did! PB Blaster, so now we need a crappy little puller?
There is a less impressive, non-professional way to do it for garage hacks like me. Use the weight of the engine to help you.

Grab the pulley with one hand while holding up the engine by the pulley. Now, using a dead fall hammer, soft, heavy, lead hammer, smack the end of the crank shaft just hard enough to not mushroom the PTO. If it's a threaded PTO, thread in the bolt, probably a 5/16-24, and hit the head of the bolt. I've removed a lot of stuck stuff that way. And in case you are wondering, it's fairly easy to square up the PTO with a file if you do accidently mushroom it a bit.

You'll want to make sure the engine doesn't fall on the hard floor and get damaged, and you may want to have an assistant. Double check both allen set screws are removed. I say "both" because it seems to me I am always finding another one when I can't get a pulley off. Or, just buy the puller.
 
#9
There is a less impressive, non-professional way to do it for garage hacks like me. Use the weight of the engine to help you.

Grab the pulley with one hand while holding up the engine by the pulley. Now, using a dead fall hammer, soft, heavy, lead hammer, smack the end of the crank shaft just hard enough to not mushroom the PTO. If it's a threaded PTO, thread in the bolt, probably a 5/16-24, and hit the head of the bolt. I've removed a lot of stuck stuff that way. And in case you are wondering, it's fairly easy to square up the PTO with a file if you do accidently mushroom it a bit.

You'll want to make sure the engine doesn't fall on the hard floor and get damaged, and you may want to have an assistant. Double check both allen set screws are removed. I say "both" because it seems to me I am always finding another one when I can't get a pulley off. Or, just buy the puller.
I didn't think of that one, would probably work
 
#13
Alright, I found one of my pulley pullers. We did not know we had one until now. Oh well, now I have good ideas if it breaks or for the future. Thank you for the help and ideas
 
#14
my 2 cents is get the clutch/gear puller tool at any auto parts store. they have 3 prongs that grab the back of the pulley and a central bolt. the bolt is set on the end of the shaft.
the bolt is tightened and the prongs grip the pulley/clutch and lossen it as you crank down on the bolt. The pulley/clutch moves toward the end of the shaft with each rotation of the bolt. it can be used to remove the flywheel as well. If your starting this as a hobby it is a tool you will use many times. The tool is very effective.
 
#15
You (very carefully) only cut off the PULLEY, not the crankshaft! - LOL
Michael
I should have been more specific. Yes, cut the pulley off by the shaft. I did use my Dremmel. Took less than 15 minutes.
I had the same problem. The 3hp Briggs on my chopper project is off an edger.
After 4 years, 2 months, and 22 days, I came back to this after gathering 4 years on my life, from being 13 to now 17, and was diagnosed soon after with Dyscalculia, and now looking back, realize that spatially I was imagining the crank on its X axis but not to cut through the pulleys Y axis horizontally because of that Dyscalculia. How neat the brain is... Oh and, after using a torch and, with a lot more PB blaster and a rubber mallet, the pulley did come off. It hasn't been stuck for 4 years. That would be a bit strange. But here is the final update to end this bottomless thread. Thanks for all of your help, it did pay off, and now I'm starting the project back up with some friends all these years later. It was never completed because of middle school to high school and now that I am about to be a senior I can relax. You guys were a critical part of my minibike building knowledge.
 
#17
Note: As you asked before, a doodle bug clutch will not work on a Briggs. Different size crank. Buy yourself a Max Torque clutch. Keep the bushing oiled and it will last forever. Don't buy one of those cheap knock offs from Amazon. Have fun.
Noted. I had figured that out all those years ago before being sorta forced to give up on the project. I bought a Max Torque clutch but it was the wrong size and I forgot to factor in the crank size at that point and I intend on sticking with Max Torque. According to the math, im looking for a 10T clutch with a 62T rear sproket, which equates to about a 6.2:1 ratio and at 6500rpm with the 3hp Briggs (with a billet flywheel, and heavier valve springs) will get me 40mph with a holeshot and top end balance for racing on a track and the occasional drag race.
Oh and, I promise to have fun!
 
#19
IT ALSO HELPS TO USE SANDPAPER OR EMERY CLOTH ON THE CRANKSHAFT PTO TO AID IN REMOVAL. SAND THE RUST OFF AND LESS AGGRIVATION WITH PULLEY OR GEAR REMOVAL. ONCE YOU GET IT MOVING ANYWAY.
 
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