how to restore

#1
Hey guys..

well, I am just about the proud new owner of an old rusty Allis Chalmers roller. the frame is rusty and pitted..the chrome handle bars, shocks, fenders are rusty.

So...my first question, after I clean and degrease the frame, is what should I do to get rid of the rust? should I bead blast everything....or should I use navel jelly or some other chemical to remove the rust....I am going to then powder coat the fram AC orange..and have all chrome parts replated with Nickel.

I sure could use some good advice on how to get rid of the rust and pits before refinishing.

Thanks
Dan
 
#5
Weed, First do any repairs that require welding ie filling in holes, replacing rusted through tubing, repairing cracks, etc. Then the frame should be blasted with #80 glass beads and then dipped in a rust dissolver like evaporust. Best bet is to have a pros do both unless you have access to blasting cabinet and a couple of hundred bucks for enough chemical to dip a whole frame in. After that; prime with a two part epoxy primer; do your filling and body work; touch up any areas where the primer has been sanded away; then seal to prevent bleed through. Then you're ready for paint. Sanding and wire brushing will "NEVER" remove the rust that is left behind in the bottoms of the pits and in the nooks and crannies of the welds. Only a chemical rust dissolver can do that. Hope this helps. Ogy PS. Never had much success with Navel Jelly.
 
#6
Often commercial powder coaters will dip the frame to remove rust, grease, dirt, etc and this is included in their charges. It will save you time cleaning but will not help with deep pits.

Oxalic acid (often called wood bleach - in powder form - available at most hardware stores) is great for rust removal. Low cost, easy to work with, low odor, does not harm paint.
If you are interested, I am sure you could google for details on usage ...or I can send some.

Pits need to be filled. They can be filled with primer, bondo, solder, brazing alloy, etc.
What you fill with depends on how large/deep the pits are; what your intended use of the item; and your intended finish.



Would be worth your time to stop by and talk with the powdercoater you intend to use. Discuss what they will do, what services they offer (some will fill pits) and what they expect from you if doing to do your own prep work.

Preparation is key. Powdercoat, paint & plating will not hide anything. If your prepped surface is irregular, the finished surface will be too.

Have fun with the project
 
#8
Often commercial powder coaters will dip the frame to remove rust, grease, dirt, etc and this is included in their charges. It will save you time cleaning but will not help with deep pits.

Oxalic acid (often called wood bleach - in powder form - available at most hardware stores) is great for rust removal. Low cost, easy to work with, low odor, does not harm paint.
If you are interested, I am sure you could google for details on usage ...or I can send some.

Pits need to be filled. They can be filled with primer, bondo, solder, brazing alloy, etc.
What you fill with depends on how large/deep the pits are; what your intended use of the item; and your intended finish.



Would be worth your time to stop by and talk with the powdercoater you intend to use. Discuss what they will do, what services they offer (some will fill pits) and what they expect from you if doing to do your own prep work.

Preparation is key. Powdercoat, paint & plating will not hide anything. If your prepped surface is irregular, the finished surface will be too.

Have fun with the project


My powder coater told me that it would not stick to body work. Is this true???
 
#9
Bondo type fillers are not for powder coat. Partly because it is not metal so will not hold a static charge to attract the powder. Partly because it will probably not stand up to the heat of curing.
Use metal filler if power coat will be the finish
 
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