HS 40 slanted intake

#3
Heck I don't know . It came off an HS 40 rupp motor I still have , the one with the long crank shaft . When I get home next week I will see if their are any numbers on it .
 
#6
Ok, Thanks.
For my bike it doesn't have to be an original part. Is there anything "wrong" with the re-pop part?

Danford1
Your welcome.....I am not sure on the re-pop part..I always use original parts if I can. Make Mr. Wulf and offer...you might get a better deal.
 
#7
Your welcome.....I am not sure on the re-pop part..I always use original parts if I can. Make Mr. Wulf and offer...you might get a better deal.
I've been reading old threads. There was a guy making and selling a 20 degree wedge adapter that goes between the normal intake and the carb. That sounds good to me. I'll pursue that :)
I'll also look into a diaphram carb, those may be cheap too...

Thanks.
Danford1
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#9
The repops are spot on to the original hs40. The only difference is the outer casting is rougher than the original hs40 slanted intake.

David's price is great for an original part. Someone needs to grab that
 
#11
The one in the link also says it fits HS40 and HS50. I'd be leery since the engine ports are very different. The same manifold can't work on both engines, not very well anyway.
The early HS50's are the same port configuration as the common HS40's. The later HS50's have the "D" shaped port as well as some HS50's have the intake and exhaust ports reversed.
 
#14
The bolt pattern is the same, and the port shape should be the same as I've only seen one intake gasket for the "D" port. This applies to intake ports that are on the left of the exhaust port.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#15
I put a repro rupp (blackwidow) bent intake on a more recent Tecumseh HS50 with the D port. It lines up and fits. BUT the lower right corner (as facing the intake port) is slightly open. The gasket doesn't cover it, nor does the new intake manifold. My solution was dumb, but it seems to work. I took a dab of JB weld and re-shaped the lower right corner of the port on the engine. This seals up the "leak" (because it would be a leak), and you can't see the repair. I don't know what the long term viability of this will be. But it's a solution...
 
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