HS40 55282B carb part number?
- Thread starter ruppro
- Start date
Skipp, I think the 237 number hes looking at is actually just the list number for the parts breakdown on page 1 of that engines parts lists, not the stamping on the carb body itself.
There are three main lists total associated with that era HS40, plus the breakdowns for some of the sub assemblies (such as the carburetor itself)
So here's the main section for your 55282b: partstree 55282B
you will actually find your carb part number on page "2", list number 237a It think its done that way for your particular engine because It is a Diaphragm carb.
To add to that when looking at the main section in the link I posted look at the "attachments for this model" section
On those MG means the Magneto breakdown (flywheel and ignition parts)
CA means the carburetor parts breakdown
RS Means The recoil starter parts breakdown
The numbers shown there are the part number for the complete part as well. so as an example CA-631588 means its a 631588 carb and that is the actual part number for a complete assembly which you see listed as 237a on sheet 2.
when you click on any one of those links it will pull up another file/link of the breakdown of that assembly along with usually a brief list of some other engines associated with that particular part.
Bummer here is your working with an NLA carb they stopped installing on anything by end of 1st quarter in 1971 though. So not much will show as available anymore unfortunately. The alternative that Tecumseh went to in 1971 was an intake change and float bowl carb, the new intake angled the carb so it sat level on your slanted engine plate. There were reproduction angled intakes available but currently show as sold out on the Blackwidowmotorsports.net (BWM) site. The only reproduction intake currently available is on ebay is one from BWM at a 45-50% markup from someone that at least gives the impression of simply drop shipping direct from BWM since they just use their sites supplied photos and descriptions on the Rupp parts they sell/flip. So they may not actually have one in stock either, I would verify before purchase if you went that route.
Do you still have the original carb? If you do I will link you to some info and tips for rebuild of it if so. In a pinch you can use a bowl/float carb but it wont work well since the angle it sits at, upgrading the intake makes things easier if you go that route.
There are three main lists total associated with that era HS40, plus the breakdowns for some of the sub assemblies (such as the carburetor itself)
So here's the main section for your 55282b: partstree 55282B
you will actually find your carb part number on page "2", list number 237a It think its done that way for your particular engine because It is a Diaphragm carb.
To add to that when looking at the main section in the link I posted look at the "attachments for this model" section
On those MG means the Magneto breakdown (flywheel and ignition parts)
CA means the carburetor parts breakdown
RS Means The recoil starter parts breakdown
The numbers shown there are the part number for the complete part as well. so as an example CA-631588 means its a 631588 carb and that is the actual part number for a complete assembly which you see listed as 237a on sheet 2.
when you click on any one of those links it will pull up another file/link of the breakdown of that assembly along with usually a brief list of some other engines associated with that particular part.
Bummer here is your working with an NLA carb they stopped installing on anything by end of 1st quarter in 1971 though. So not much will show as available anymore unfortunately. The alternative that Tecumseh went to in 1971 was an intake change and float bowl carb, the new intake angled the carb so it sat level on your slanted engine plate. There were reproduction angled intakes available but currently show as sold out on the Blackwidowmotorsports.net (BWM) site. The only reproduction intake currently available is on ebay is one from BWM at a 45-50% markup from someone that at least gives the impression of simply drop shipping direct from BWM since they just use their sites supplied photos and descriptions on the Rupp parts they sell/flip. So they may not actually have one in stock either, I would verify before purchase if you went that route.
Do you still have the original carb? If you do I will link you to some info and tips for rebuild of it if so. In a pinch you can use a bowl/float carb but it wont work well since the angle it sits at, upgrading the intake makes things easier if you go that route.
you wont find one of the original spec carbs for your engine on ebay currently, like I said in the post above that carb is long gone NLA. They pop up from time to time but not commonly and they never offered a direct replacement for it. It was a diaphragm type carb that could take running in that angle without problems as it had no fuel bowl.
a slanted intake is what I talked about on ebay, (currently just search "rupp intake" on ebay to find one) that takes a carb like you currently have on there and slant it to make it level so the float can work properly. Putting one of those at an angle like you have it will cause it to leak since the float sits at that 20 degree angle but the fuel sits level, If you manipulate the float lever to compensate, you most likely will cause starving issues when running etc...
The carb you have on there Looks to be a roughly correct sized "series 1" for that engine. I cant tell if its a an actual Tecumseh made carb or a Chinese aftermarket copy in those pics (it does appear to be factory Tecumseh). That will matter for rebuild kit purposes as they used different type parts internally.
The way to tell is on the top left side (side with the adjuster screws) either on the flange lip or on the flat area right near the idle adjuster will have some laser etched or stamped numbers there if its an OEM Tecumseh. If it is then take those numbers and look here on this list to match it up with its service number:
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/tecumseh_carb_mfg_no.asp
use that service number to to either search part listings or if its common may pull up rebuild kits on places like ebay. If you can find an actual Tecumseh made kit or the parts you need buy them over anything from the aftermarket world even if its old dusty stock......there IS a difference!!! I would recommend pulling the float out of it and making sure there are no leaks or damage to it so you can order one of those as well if it needs it.
The same source for the carb number list above also has a nice pictorial of a series 1 carb with explanations of whats what on them. The one they disassemble has a primer nipple on it which yours won't (everything else is the same on yours so don't let that distract you) It's very helpful if you have never had one apart.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_632107.asp
If it turns out to be a Chinese made aftermarket replacement, well honestly you may just want to order another one as they cost about the same a rebuild kit would. They are total crapshoots as far as working out of the box and you really need to take it apart, clean it, check the float for leaks, and make sure the gaskets are good and not pinched or installed correctly, or take the 2 to make one hopefully good unit.
a slanted intake is what I talked about on ebay, (currently just search "rupp intake" on ebay to find one) that takes a carb like you currently have on there and slant it to make it level so the float can work properly. Putting one of those at an angle like you have it will cause it to leak since the float sits at that 20 degree angle but the fuel sits level, If you manipulate the float lever to compensate, you most likely will cause starving issues when running etc...
The carb you have on there Looks to be a roughly correct sized "series 1" for that engine. I cant tell if its a an actual Tecumseh made carb or a Chinese aftermarket copy in those pics (it does appear to be factory Tecumseh). That will matter for rebuild kit purposes as they used different type parts internally.
The way to tell is on the top left side (side with the adjuster screws) either on the flange lip or on the flat area right near the idle adjuster will have some laser etched or stamped numbers there if its an OEM Tecumseh. If it is then take those numbers and look here on this list to match it up with its service number:
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/tecumseh_carb_mfg_no.asp
use that service number to to either search part listings or if its common may pull up rebuild kits on places like ebay. If you can find an actual Tecumseh made kit or the parts you need buy them over anything from the aftermarket world even if its old dusty stock......there IS a difference!!! I would recommend pulling the float out of it and making sure there are no leaks or damage to it so you can order one of those as well if it needs it.
The same source for the carb number list above also has a nice pictorial of a series 1 carb with explanations of whats what on them. The one they disassemble has a primer nipple on it which yours won't (everything else is the same on yours so don't let that distract you) It's very helpful if you have never had one apart.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_632107.asp
If it turns out to be a Chinese made aftermarket replacement, well honestly you may just want to order another one as they cost about the same a rebuild kit would. They are total crapshoots as far as working out of the box and you really need to take it apart, clean it, check the float for leaks, and make sure the gaskets are good and not pinched or installed correctly, or take the 2 to make one hopefully good unit.
Well - that explains a lot! Markus - per your comment, it appears I have a Tecumseh carb as I do see numbers near the adjustment screws.
So, I just need a manifold like this and it will correct the tilt thereby fixing the leak (assuming internal carb parts are cleaned and working correctly)?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/283194880263
So, I just need a manifold like this and it will correct the tilt thereby fixing the leak (assuming internal carb parts are cleaned and working correctly)?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/283194880263
correct, it will put the bowl level taking fuel overflow out of the the equation of a good working carb
style intake you have currently on your 1970
One of my old bikes with a factory "slanted" intake on it (all Tecumseh engines built for slanted engine plates past about march/april 1971 changed to this style setup)
style intake you have currently on your 1970
One of my old bikes with a factory "slanted" intake on it (all Tecumseh engines built for slanted engine plates past about march/april 1971 changed to this style setup)
