HS50 No spark after new points and condenser? Test coil?

Mini Bike & Go-Kart Parts

markus

Well-Known Member
#8
you do have the coil wire grounded to the condenser screw/mount correct?.......I dont see it there in the pic, and the points for some reason dont look like they are closed even though its off the cam lobe.....Might just be the photo, but always check the easy stuff first, OG coils are pretty tough units unless the get cracked or breached in some way.
 
#10
you do have the coil wire grounded to the condenser screw/mount correct?.......I dont see it there in the pic, and the points for some reason dont look like they are closed even though its off the cam lobe.....Might just be the photo, but always check the easy stuff first, OG coils are pretty tough units unless the get cracked or breached in some way.
Took better pics for your "Obi One" feedback Markus. Thank you. The coil wire is grounded to the condenser mount (towards back side)
 

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markus

Well-Known Member
#11
did you use the original mount block instead of the one that came with the points? (the plastic block that the square notched bolt goes though for the wire connection). They may call those OEM, but they are not the same as the originals. All I see is what looks like the "spring" steel looks like its angled and maybe not set tight enough in the block. I also see that you have the kill wire exiting rearward which usually points towards a throttle controlled kill switch, so you want to make sure that is disconnected from the throttle control and definitely not grounding out, same goes for the wiring from coil/condenser to points, If that OG crimp washer that the C/C wires go to is touching the stator body in any way they will ground out. I would remove the wires, tighten the post down (it has to be tight to get the right points setting and operate correctly) recheck for .020 and use an ohm meter to make sure the points are closed (making a connection) through the rotation until it hits the ramp. Then again with the ohm meter make sure they remain open all the way up and over the ramp.

Also you stated you reglued the magnets, If you got the polarity wrong I would imagine it would mess up it ability to spark, also if they are reglued far enough off it would effect it ability to produce spark.

If you do in fact end up removing the stator assembly, before you crack the bolts free just make some match marks on the top ear and the top lug like they did in the old days, Don't use the info posted for timing if you go that far, that particular mini bike service book I took that from predates HS50 engines so the timing setting (.035 btdc) is not there and those are pretty lax setting they give anyway :D

 
#12
"If that OG crimp washer that the C/C wires go to is touching the stator body in any way they will ground out. I would remove the wires, tighten the post down (it has to be tight to get the right points setting and operate correctly) recheck for .020"

Markus you truly are worthy of your avatar picture. It might as well be a picture of you. I swapped out the block, kept the new bolt and the points would not move with the spring with rotating the crank. Then I realized the new bolt is a size smaller than original and had too much play. So I swapped in the original bolt and set the gap. The OG crimp washer was indeed touching the stator body. Slight adjustment and BEHOLD! Blue spark. Thank you. Now on to a new carb swap. Cheers!!!!
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#13
Good call Markus ! :)

I was thinking today when looking @ the pics,, & was wondering if that post ''ect.'' in & around the insulator block, might be touching the housing/ body.
I almost posted to check the post to the body with an ohm meter, to see if there was any continuity.

Guess I lost my own bet of the coil being toast. LOL

I do remember though,, seeing coils rusted up & exposed to the elements for ''years'' ,, that it's real hit & miss if they are still good or not,, especially if they have cracks ''& or'' tons of built up rust.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#14
"If that OG crimp washer that the C/C wires go to is touching the stator body in any way they will ground out. I would remove the wires, tighten the post down (it has to be tight to get the right points setting and operate correctly) recheck for .020"

Markus you truly are worthy of your avatar picture. It might as well be a picture of you. I swapped out the block, kept the new bolt and the points would not move with the spring with rotating the crank. Then I realized the new bolt is a size smaller than original and had too much play. So I swapped in the original bolt and set the gap. The OG crimp washer was indeed touching the stator body. Slight adjustment and BEHOLD! Blue spark. Thank you. Now on to a new carb swap. Cheers!!!!
excellent, glad you got it figured out! My avatar. "Mr Enginuity", Is my hero, I hang his poster in my shop from time to time for inspiration:cool:
187012375_10216798258263199_903187200188098881_n.jpg
 
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Bbqman

Active Member
#15
Re glued steel flywheel magnets and installed new points (OEM) and condensor in hopes of curing no spark issue. How can I test the coil to rule that out?
Re glued steel flywheel magnets and installed new points (OEM) and condensor in hopes of curing no spark issue. How can I test the coil to rule that out?
I had same issue. It ended up being the spring on the points was touching the adjustment screw and grounding it out. Worth a look
 

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