Krylon paint and sand blasting

[Newoldstock]

Is it just me or have any of you fellows found it to be very thin and unforgiving?

6 months into the clean up of my Onan BGE I have started to repaint it now.
The Krylon just would not stick and the rust has come out everywhere.
( that's after a chemical strip mechanical scrub, soap water and I think I even used some naval jelly ).

Going from emerald green to Glytal red.
Sure is ugly, but the stuff sticks....

New tool:
Wiped all the paint off much better than I expected.
Works good with 60/40 sand but will not pass walnut shells ( I doubt I could so I should not complain ).
29 dollars well spent
Canadian Tire MasterCraft Mastercraft Sandblaster : Questions, Answers, How To, FAQs, Tips, Advice, Answers, Buying Guide

 

[Tom S.]

Does it leave much of a mess on the ground?

 

[Lotar]

Over the years Ive become pretty good at chemical stripping, sanding, cleaning, priming and painting with rattle cans too. And I've waited weeks for the painted parts to gas out before assembling. But in the end, it still chips if you look at it too hard. So now I do the initial strip & clean but pay to have the paint done right. I'd save some money if I'd learn how to paint and weld...

 

[Newoldstock]

Not much mess.
Harbour freight sells the same tool.
I used about 4 litres worth of sand and its finely spread in my back yard thanks to way I used it.

I have used lots of spray paint over the years.
But I am baffled by the shite Krylon.
You get what you pay for shopping at Walmart sometimes....

Red Glyptal sticks but who wants everything they own to be red oxide coloured?

 

[Harleys Papa]

I hate Krylon all I use is Duplicolor High Temp, primer, color and clear :thumbsup:

 

[buckeye]

I've had good luck with Krylon.
Although, real easy to chip.
Next bike, I really paint.
I have the guns and compressor, just intimidated.
Time for my big boy drawers..

 

[Outlaw Ace]

I've had trouble with regular Krylon but the primer/paint combo stuff in flat black has held up remarkably well on the Rat Bastard chopper out in the back building. Even when the float stuck on the carb and puked fuel onto it the stuff stayed on, I was actually surprised after having such bad luck with the straight paint but a neighbor had painted one of those cast iron benches with the stuff and he raved about how good it was. So a few years later the paint/primer still sticks, it's the best result I've ever gotten with a spray can hands down. They call it colormaster if I remember correctly. Good luck with your project NOS.

 

[FOMOGO]

I hate Krylon all I use is Duplicolor High Temp, primer, color and clear :thumbsup:

Dead on the money Harleys Papa. I have used Duplicolor for 40 plus years with great results. I still have shelving and racks that I built 20 plus years ago and painted with Duplicolor. It is still in good shape. I don't use their primer though, never have. Just the color straight on the bare metal. If I use primer nowadays I use SEM brand self etching primer. Tuff as nails if properly applied. And when I go to buy the SEM primer I buy the color I want custom mixed and loaded in an aerosol can. It is standard automotive paint and is just as good as having a pint mixed and shot with a gun. Add the clear coat and its slick as glass.

 

[Cuda54]

I use a self etching primer first before painting. Let it dry for a day then use what ever paint with a heat lamp. I think the heat lamps really help the drying time. It will dry fast and get hard after a few hour of drying. I like to use heat to help it dry totally. I works with spray guns and rattle can paint jobs. But I think the self etching primer really helps too. I have a friend that powder coats too. And he has a sand blast cabinet. If you sand blast it seem to need wiped down with thinner and primed as soon as it comes out of the sand blast. It seem to be the best way to get paint to hold on the best for me!

 

[Newoldstock]

I pulled out the nuclear option and cleaned it all off with a combination of sand blast and chemical stripper.

Then I did a phosphoric acid wash and cleaned everything with soap and wire wool.

I repainted with Glyptal lie I said I would and it does indeed look like semi gloss red oxide.
But I know this will stick.

Go took the belly pan from the underfloor mount off the genset too and now that I have it naked I am considering trying to clean up the castings a little with some walnut shell media blasting ( salt corrosion on the unit from its former life under the floor of a Trailer or RV ).

Side note...
Wife in an amorous mood after watching me work in my sexy tight coveralls...
Then I got close to her to steal a kiss and she said I stink and I am full of sad YUCK!!!!!

So if the ladies don't find you handsome at least they can find you handy as Red Green says lol.

 

[FOMOGO]

Just want to add that a sandblasted surface is not an ultimate surface. It is not paint ready and it is not weld ready. I have a pressure pot, a siphon pot and 2 blast cabinets, so I blast a lot of parts with either Black Beauty abrasive or Glass Beads. This is just my experience from the school of hard knocks. And talking to the Lincoln welders rep years ago about welding sandblasted surfaces. And more recently talking to the Miller rep about welding sand blasted surfaces. Do some googling and you will see that it has to much texture and not enough "clean" metal. Sanded or ground metal is "clean" metal. Try it on a piece of scrap. I feel pretty sure that most of us doing this have or have access to some type of mig welder. Try half ground bare steel and half sand blasted with a mig. Yes it will weld but it is not as good a weld if you cut it and examine it. And the surface texture doesn't lend itself to just wipe and paint. It always works better for me to grind the weld area clean before I mig a part. And I spend a lot of time sanding a freshly blasted part before I even think about paint. Unless it is just going to be parked on the shelf for a while then I just squirt it with Krylon to seal it up and then just wipe it off with laquer thinner later when I am ready to prep for paint. Your mileage may vary.......

 

[Newoldstock]

Just want to add that a sandblasted surface is not an ultimate surface. It is not paint ready and it is not weld ready. I have a pressure pot, a siphon pot and 2 blast cabinets, so I blast a lot of parts with either Black Beauty abrasive or Glass Beads. This is just my experience from the school of hard knocks. And talking to the Lincoln welders rep years ago about welding sandblasted surfaces. And more recently talking to the Miller rep about welding sand blasted surfaces. Do some googling and you will see that it has to much texture and not enough "clean" metal. Sanded or ground metal is "clean" metal. Try it on a piece of scrap. I feel pretty sure that most of us doing this have or have access to some type of mig welder. Try half ground bare steel and half sand blasted with a mig. Yes it will weld but it is not as good a weld if you cut it and examine it. And the surface texture doesn't lend itself to just wipe and paint. It always works better for me to grind the weld area clean before I mig a part. And I spend a lot of time sanding a freshly blasted part before I even think about paint. Unless it is just going to be parked on the shelf for a while then I just squirt it with Krylon to seal it up and then just wipe it off with laquer thinner later when I am ready to prep for paint. Your mileage may vary.......

Excellent point, especially when using other media like plastic or walnuts.

I wash, sand and wire wool my steel.
I also use phosphoric acid to etch.

 

[FOMOGO]

Excellent point, especially when using other media like plastic or walnuts.

I wash, sand and wire wool my steel.
I also use phosphoric acid to etch.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I use Ospho. Wipe on and wipe off. Don't leave it unless you want it to do its thing.... Then a self etching primer too.