Locked up raptor
- Thread starter hill_racing
- Start date
We will see a lot of disagreement here. I soak iron, steel brass, anything but aluminum in white vinegar for days at a time.
I mess with a bunch of old farm equipment and some of these implements have been outside for years and they look like the stuff in your engine.
I do not know what Vinegar would do to aluminum, so I would not even try that. I would get everything taken apart and drop everything that sticks to a magnet into a bucket of regular white distilled vinegar for a couple of days. Until you can get the aluminum and steel separated, I would stick with Automatic trans fluid. It is way cheaper than MMO . When you get the parts separated, clean and degrease them before soaking in the vinegar.
Get ready for the fans of the environmentally safe fluids.
I mess with a bunch of old farm equipment and some of these implements have been outside for years and they look like the stuff in your engine.
I do not know what Vinegar would do to aluminum, so I would not even try that. I would get everything taken apart and drop everything that sticks to a magnet into a bucket of regular white distilled vinegar for a couple of days. Until you can get the aluminum and steel separated, I would stick with Automatic trans fluid. It is way cheaper than MMO . When you get the parts separated, clean and degrease them before soaking in the vinegar.
Get ready for the fans of the environmentally safe fluids.
Hope you didn't pay too much for that old hulk, because the seller hosed you if he didn't mention that it was full of water at one point.
Camshaft should come right out after the sump cover is removed. However, the cam may have "become one" with the other side of the block where it rides in a plain bearing. Two dissimilar metals can corrode together and become one {galvanic corrosion}, but you should be able to pull the cam right out towards you, a la this video {2:40}:
I haven't seen much disagreement around here, just different opinions {and that's always good}. You just listed environmentally safe fluids in your post, are you trying to cause division?
Camshaft should come right out after the sump cover is removed. However, the cam may have "become one" with the other side of the block where it rides in a plain bearing. Two dissimilar metals can corrode together and become one {galvanic corrosion}, but you should be able to pull the cam right out towards you, a la this video {2:40}:
I haven't seen much disagreement around here, just different opinions {and that's always good}. You just listed environmentally safe fluids in your post, are you trying to cause division?
Hope you didn't pay too much for that old hulk, because the seller hosed you if he didn't mention that it was full of water at one point.
Camshaft should come right out after the sump cover is removed. However, the cam may have "become one" with the other side of the block where it rides in a plain bearing. Two dissimilar metals can corrode together and become one {galvanic corrosion}, but you should be able to pull the cam right out towards you, a la this video {2:40}:
I haven't seen much disagreement around here, just different opinions {and that's always good}. You just listed environmentally safe fluids in your post, are you trying to cause division?
Camshaft should come right out after the sump cover is removed. However, the cam may have "become one" with the other side of the block where it rides in a plain bearing. Two dissimilar metals can corrode together and become one {galvanic corrosion}, but you should be able to pull the cam right out towards you, a la this video {2:40}:
I haven't seen much disagreement around here, just different opinions {and that's always good}. You just listed environmentally safe fluids in your post, are you trying to cause division?
Vibration is your friend.
Use a chunk of wood as buffer between surfaces and use one of those Muscle things that are all over Amazon for like $40-50.
Have one and they work great on your back, neck. etc. and have tons of speeds.
Air tool to cut off exhaust is going to be too much impact so that is out.
Regular "Marital Aid device" is not going to have enough to make a difference for this application. Work well for intended purposes however.
Now, back to our program brought of you by........"Anderson Windows and Doors, sign up now for No Money Down and NO interest for 5 years!" Because you are gonna need 8 years to pay off those over inflated windows
Use a chunk of wood as buffer between surfaces and use one of those Muscle things that are all over Amazon for like $40-50.
Have one and they work great on your back, neck. etc. and have tons of speeds.
Air tool to cut off exhaust is going to be too much impact so that is out.
Regular "Marital Aid device" is not going to have enough to make a difference for this application. Work well for intended purposes however.
Now, back to our program brought of you by........"Anderson Windows and Doors, sign up now for No Money Down and NO interest for 5 years!" Because you are gonna need 8 years to pay off those over inflated windows
Can you get a box wrench, open end wrench or a socket on the bottom of the con-rod cap? Might have Allen/Hex screws. The crank may not be at the ideal position for you to reach the screws, but you can always try.
Instead of dunking the block, spray everything down with WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or your aerosol penetrating fluid of choice and see if you can free up the parts. Spray the crank and connecting rod journal, the other bearing of the camshaft and the valve tappets. Might help to turn the engine upside down or put it on its side so gravity will work for you instead of against you.
>>I agree with the sick man. Vibrations from a hammer and a wood block to soften the blows (or even a plastic tipped hammer) might be the ticket here.
You might try going into the valve spring area and seeing if you can pry up the valves from there (and then ease the cam out since there won't be any pressure on the cam once the valves are removed). Also spray penetrating fluid in there. The spring keepers (they are keyhole shaped) can be removed, or rather dislodged, with a spring compressor tool or a screwdriver like at 3:00 ~
Are the valves seized in the block? If so, try loosening the valves by gripping the edges with slip-joint pliers and rotating them back and forth on their valve seats. Taryl is doing that, albeit with his thumb, at 2:48 in the same video but those valves aren't seized.
Instead of dunking the block, spray everything down with WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or your aerosol penetrating fluid of choice and see if you can free up the parts. Spray the crank and connecting rod journal, the other bearing of the camshaft and the valve tappets. Might help to turn the engine upside down or put it on its side so gravity will work for you instead of against you.
>>I agree with the sick man.
Vibrations from a hammer and a wood block to soften the blows (or even a plastic tipped hammer) might be the ticket here.You might try going into the valve spring area and seeing if you can pry up the valves from there (and then ease the cam out since there won't be any pressure on the cam once the valves are removed). Also spray penetrating fluid in there. The spring keepers (they are keyhole shaped) can be removed, or rather dislodged, with a spring compressor tool or a screwdriver like at 3:00 ~
Are the valves seized in the block? If so, try loosening the valves by gripping the edges with slip-joint pliers and rotating them back and forth on their valve seats. Taryl is doing that, albeit with his thumb, at 2:48 in the same video but those valves aren't seized.
Can you get a box wrench, open end wrench or a socket on the bottom of the con-rod cap? Might have Allen/Hex screws. The crank may not be at the ideal position for you to reach the screws, but you can always try.
Instead of dunking the block, spray everything down with WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or your aerosol penetrating fluid of choice and see if you can free up the parts. Spray the crank and connecting rod journal, the other bearing of the camshaft and the valve tappets. Might help to turn the engine upside down or put it on its side so gravity will work for you instead of against you.
>>I agree with the sick man. Vibrations from a hammer and a wood block to soften the blows (or even a plastic tipped hammer) might be the ticket here.
You might try going into the valve spring area and seeing if you can pry up the valves from there (and then ease the cam out since there won't be any pressure on the cam once the valves are removed). Also spray penetrating fluid in there. The spring keepers (they are keyhole shaped) can be removed, or rather dislodged, with a spring compressor tool or a screwdriver like at 3:00 ~
Are the valves seized in the block? If so, try loosening the valves by gripping the edges with slip-joint pliers and rotating them back and forth on their valve seats. Taryl is doing that, albeit with his thumb, at 2:48 in the same video but those valves aren't seized.
Instead of dunking the block, spray everything down with WD40, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or your aerosol penetrating fluid of choice and see if you can free up the parts. Spray the crank and connecting rod journal, the other bearing of the camshaft and the valve tappets. Might help to turn the engine upside down or put it on its side so gravity will work for you instead of against you.
>>I agree with the sick man.
Vibrations from a hammer and a wood block to soften the blows (or even a plastic tipped hammer) might be the ticket here.You might try going into the valve spring area and seeing if you can pry up the valves from there (and then ease the cam out since there won't be any pressure on the cam once the valves are removed). Also spray penetrating fluid in there. The spring keepers (they are keyhole shaped) can be removed, or rather dislodged, with a spring compressor tool or a screwdriver like at 3:00 ~
Are the valves seized in the block? If so, try loosening the valves by gripping the edges with slip-joint pliers and rotating them back and forth on their valve seats. Taryl is doing that, albeit with his thumb, at 2:48 in the same video but those valves aren't seized.