Looking at an older Baja

#1
Hello all,

I have a shot at purchasing a mini bike project: either a Baja with the JF168 5.5 hp engine, or a complete, or same era Baja without an engine...

They are both steel fenders with chrome handlebar models.

I'm 6'2 and about 180, so I was kind of looking for something larger like a Baja, and the idea of front suspension sounds good to me.

I'm pretty sure the front forks will need a rebuild...

I figured I was going to go for a 212 Predator power (or bigger?), so I'm leaning toward the one with no engine...

What do I need to know about these older Bajas? This will be my first mini bike...

Thanks
 
#2
Bow if you are talking about a Baja like this then I would check for bad welds on the lower part of the frame , other than that they are pretty good riding bikes. I would go with the 212 engine though and you will have to use a torque converter on it as well.

 
#3


I would add that I would recommend buying the bike with the engine so that you don't spend forever trying to find any of the miscilanience small parts that it takes to put one together.

You might also want to read Noseoil's post about the PMR jackshaft for the Warrior. It is an interesting alternative to the factory jackshaft and/or a torque converter.I posted a link to the replacement wheel bearings on this thread as well.

Buy the SunF tires off ebay and you will be happy.

Doug
 

noseoil

Active Member
#5
What OND said is good advice. The full size ride will be better for you. The front end may or may not need a rebuild, get it running & try it first to see if it bottoms out on bumps. The 301cc motor would have a bit more grunt than the 212cc & a torque converter will give you a better start & run in general, especially at factory rpms. I would go for the roller without a motor, since the standard motor isn't too good in general & will likely be clapped-out anyway, when compared to what's available off the shelf now.

If you go with the 212, it's really OK to run. I would go with the "hemi" motor (60363) from HF & a level 1 mod to begin with (air intake, exhaust header, 36 jet & an 8 degree timing key) so it can run up to it's potential. There's a night & day difference in how it runs & feels between the stock motor & a level 1 mod motor. It's a toss-up on $ between the coupon sale 301 & the 212 with mods. Depends on what you want to do & how much you want to spend. A 301 will require the larger torque converter, etc. etc. etc.

Either way it's a lot of fun to build one & tinker with it to run well & ride.
 
#6
OND,

Yup, like that one. Looks like the sun faded, formerly black frame on both...

Where about are these infamous welds usually located?

FOMOGO,

Thanks, I was reading some threads on here yesterday on the PMR Jackshaft, very cool...

I'm currently about 80% complete building my Cycle Kart, which has a not-very-stock 212 Hemi in it and a Torque Convertor, so I'm not scared of a little fabrication.

Noseoil,

Hey, we are neighbors... kinda!

The Hemi 212 is a fun. Mine is built with a ARC Flywheel, Black Mamba Jr Cam, 26# Valve Springs, +0.020 Arc Connecting Rod, Mikuni VM22 with inverted intake, header...
It pulls my 200lb Cycle Kart with my butt into it and no body work to curb the wind load to 50 MPH running a 10/60 ratio and 17" tires...


The Asking prices are:
Roller Frame: $50
Roller With Engine: $100

Even the one with the Engine will need a clutch and a through investigation for shadiness...

I was leaning toward the Roller because that other $50 can go toward the new Predator, Jack Shaft or Torque Convertor, and everything else I'll need... I was also looking at a Disc Brake Conversion... Going is fun, stopping is important...

Thank you for the replies gents!
 
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#9
(1) Where about are these infamous welds usually located?

(2) The Asking prices are:
Roller Frame: $50
Roller With Engine: $100

(3) I was also looking at a Disc Brake Conversion... Going is fun, stopping is important...



Let me answer all 3.

(1) as far as the welds, if you read my Warrior thread I have stretched 3 of these frames so far and any weld is hit or miss. The engine plate is the most likely to have broken welds but I have seen brand new frames with the weld run down one piece never connecting it to the adjoining piece so check them all.

(2) I would buy BOTH. And here is why. Brakes. Take the rear wheel and the brake assembly off one and put it on the front of the other. You cant buy the wheel and brake assembly for the $50 bucks they want for the other bike. Its easy and it works.

(3) Don't worry about disc brakes and use these Honda shoes. Make sure the drum is squeaky clean and you will be happy.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Groove...ash=item35f33bcd9f:g:qbAAAOSwB09YD-34&vxp=mtr

Doug
 
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