Manual Clutch...
- Thread starter guyw
- Start date
I like the idea of it, but it isn't as reliable being that it isn't consistent like a race clutch. There isn't anything bad about it at all.
It would work something like a dirtbike's first gear. You can basically kick it into gear at what ever RPM you like. The advantage of this is that you can kick it into gear at a low RPM, so you can get moving easy. Or you can rev the motor and kick it into gear for a faster take off.
The problem with free revving the motor and kicking it into gear is that you don't really know what RPM your kicking it into gear at. To know you would have to rev it slow and have a tach to know where your launching off at.
But if you know your bike good enough, like a motocross racer. He can pretty much know the best spot to launch at. But only at the start, because he has time to sit there and get ready.
The race clutch on the other had is usually setup to engage right at, or right before the motors peak torque. So you always get the best launch off the starting line. The problem with this is just the opposite. You can't really ease it off the starting line like the manual would be able to do. The bike would always want to blast off hard.
Which is the main problem with a inexperienced rider trying to ride my minibike with disc clutches on them. Now if you were to have a racing drum clutch. It wouldn't lock up are hard and it will work something like a medium. Faster then stock, but slower the a disc clutch.
It would work something like a dirtbike's first gear. You can basically kick it into gear at what ever RPM you like. The advantage of this is that you can kick it into gear at a low RPM, so you can get moving easy. Or you can rev the motor and kick it into gear for a faster take off.
The problem with free revving the motor and kicking it into gear is that you don't really know what RPM your kicking it into gear at. To know you would have to rev it slow and have a tach to know where your launching off at.
But if you know your bike good enough, like a motocross racer. He can pretty much know the best spot to launch at. But only at the start, because he has time to sit there and get ready.
The race clutch on the other had is usually setup to engage right at, or right before the motors peak torque. So you always get the best launch off the starting line. The problem with this is just the opposite. You can't really ease it off the starting line like the manual would be able to do. The bike would always want to blast off hard.
Which is the main problem with a inexperienced rider trying to ride my minibike with disc clutches on them. Now if you were to have a racing drum clutch. It wouldn't lock up are hard and it will work something like a medium. Faster then stock, but slower the a disc clutch.
I've had the same idea. I work on alot of older rototillers and snowblowers and have thought of putting a foot peddle that engages a rider pulley which then engages the belt to drive the mini. I've seen pictures of belt driven mini's but never seen one in person and up close. I guess this would be considered a manual clutch?
Yes, a manually controlled belt would be a clutch, and quite a few of the older DIY mini plans had such a setup. I don't know how good belt life is under rough useage tho...talk about burning rubber...
I was thinking more in terms of a disc clutch similar to a car clutch, due to it's (theoretical) ability to take more punishment...
BTW....a manually dis-engageable clutch appears to open the door for a simple and shiftable 2 spd gear arrangement using 2 jackshafts...
I was thinking more in terms of a disc clutch similar to a car clutch, due to it's (theoretical) ability to take more punishment...
BTW....a manually dis-engageable clutch appears to open the door for a simple and shiftable 2 spd gear arrangement using 2 jackshafts...
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A belt drive like backyard builders would work great with the tapered crank engine. You could have the bore of the drive pulley tapered. You could even run the belt to a jackshaft, with a centrifugal clutch on the other end. I've been thinking about a single disc clutch with a cam arm to engage and release the pressure plate.
i would think a single belt system would work good for just having fun and riding around on a minibike. but if it's for racing? that maybe a problem. just think of all the snow blowers and rototillers that use this system and work good. if you are using a stock 5hp or maybe little higher hp? i don't think your going to have a belt problem.
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Many years ago, (no age jokes, please), a friend was tinkering with a big B&S engine, maybe 12 or 15 hp. He came across an automobile 3 speed stick. With a bit of welding he built a crude frame, installed a motorcycle fork system for steering. He mounted the tranny across the frame with a pulley on the input shaft and a sprocket on th output. The pulley linked to another on the engine shaft and the sprocket to the axle. By squeezeing the clutch lever he depressed a belt tensioner just in front of the input shaft pulley. When he released it a heavy spring pulled it to tension the belt and engage the tranny. Worked real well but was hard on the hand due to the pull of the clutch release. He eventually swapped to a pedal actuated with linkage. A bit more complicated but the tension wheel was permitted even more spring power.
That was one flying, low horse, home made kart. So, yeah, it'll work and work well.
That was one flying, low horse, home made kart. So, yeah, it'll work and work well.
