max-torque instructions

M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#1
#1
Does anybody have instructions or a detailed diagram of a max-torque clutch syatem? Not just a centrifigal clutch, but a belt driven clutch system kind of like a comet tav2 or something. It has a centrifigal clutch with a belt instead of a chain coming off of the engine going to a driven unit, through a jackshaft then connects to the wheel with a chain. I have one on a 2seat kart that I think is either missing something, put together wrong or something.
 
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M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#4
#4
clutch assembly

1. Here is a pic of the driver unit on my kart. Most of the pictures I find of max-torque clutch systems have a driver that has the tapered end cap on them. I can find pictures of a part like mine for sale, but I have yet to see one installed or how it is supposed to be setup. They only say "for use with A or B belts".

2. The other pic is one side of my driven unit. What are the two holes one either side of the plate for? All of the pictures I have seen of these don't have holes in them.
 
george3

george3

Active Member
#5
#5
If the hole goes all the way through. they prob used them so the driven clutch would not funtion as a varable drive but as a pully only. because the driver is not the correct one. the driver and driven has to both be varable or fixed setting. on tav units on the driven the belt dropes down in the pully when the rpms go up for speed and back up the pully for power. with a fixed driver the driven must be fixed or the belt will just get loose when the driven pully opens up.
 
M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#6
#6
Mismatched parts

So are you telling me I have the wrong driver and a driven that is not functioning properly? What should I replace to get a correct setup, short of $180 TAV replacement?
 
Modding_out

Modding_out

#7
#7
If you showed us all the parts your have....then there are to many pieces need ed to make every thing work again and still retain some level of cost effectiveness. I've dealt with a comet tav's for a while now, and I have to say if you have never worked on one before, I highly recommend you buy new and fix the old one later.

But if you dead set on it working again Check out this web sight. Comet Torque Converters: Comet Clutches, Drive Belts & Info. Comet Torque Converter Clutches & Parts
<< Def not the cheapest sights but they offer good menus that let you see whats all needed, the 1 one's good for belts the 2 one's good for parts.
But in all honesty you have like 2 pieces out 20 needed.
 
M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#8
#8
more info

OK. I have more parts than I have shown, but they are all disassembled so taking a picture of a pile of parts would not make for a very specific question here. I would love to give more details and get more help from you, but I wanted to "test the water" before going all out.

BTW..This thing ran ok before I took kit apart so someone either got lucky or knew what they were cobbling together.


thanks
 
Modding_out

Modding_out

#9
#9
MJVAUGHANS said:
OK. I have more parts than I have shown, but they are all disassembled so taking a picture of a pile of parts would not make for a very specific question here. I would love to give more details and get more help from you, but I wanted to "test the water" before going all out.

BTW..This thing ran ok before I took kit apart so someone either got lucky or knew what they were cobbling together.


thanks
Click to expand...
If you fanned every part out I could tell you what you need to buy.....besides a belt and driver.
 
M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#12
#12
belt clutch

I don't know why anyone would use for a kart, must be intended primarily for industrial apps.


I will try to get all of my parts laid out and photograph so I can see what this is going to cost me.
 
M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#13
#13
clutch parts

Here is what I have. After I pulled everything I have all together off of all Karts and Mini bikes it looks like I have what appears to be a Comet 20 series Driver and Driven pulley and a comet belt.(Along with other parts) It appears all my rigs have been cobbled together in one form or another over time. I got them this way.





 
M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#15
#15
Modding_out said:
But if you dead set on it working again Check out this web sight. Comet Torque Converters: Comet Clutches, Drive Belts & Info. Comet Torque Converter Clutches & Parts
<< Def not the cheapest sights but they offer good menus that let you see whats all needed, the 1 one's good for belts the 2 one's good for parts.
But in all honesty you have like 2 pieces out 20 needed.
Click to expand...
I have studied these sites extensively and I believe I have enough stuff to assemble a Comet system and I think they are 20 series, but how can I be sure they are not 30 series?? I don't know if it is symmetric or asymmetric.

I can't tell what color spring is on my driver(it is silver).
The post on my driver pulley is 5/8".
I have 6 of those driven cam buttons on my driven pulley.
My driven pulley is 7".
 
W

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#16
#16
I'm far from an expert, but that driven backplate (left, center row) looks almost flat. That would be a 30 series. Post a side view of the driver (lower row, center, marked comet) and the backplate (center row left)
 
M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#17
#17
clutch id

It looks to me like I have a series 20 driven(symmetrical) and a series 30 driver(asymmetrical). Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
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Modding_out

Modding_out

#18
#18
Nope you are correct. you can get the to work together if you need to get rolling fast. but if won't be good for the belt.

the easiest thing to do is to get the other 20series half of the driver. the 30 and 20 series are driver are identical save for that one pully half next to the engine.
 
M

MJVAUGHANS

Member
#19
#19
belt

My belt is already trashed. It has a symmetrical part number on it, but is clearly worn one one side so much more than the other it looks like an asymmetrical belt! I have no idea how long it has been run with mismatched parts. I am going to check on pricing to replace the belt and half of the driver as you mentioned.
 
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