New Shop Saw

Mini Bike & Go-Kart Parts

#2
ordered a new cold saw for the shop:

https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-cs315/

this will augment my cutting and sawing abilities. i wanted a more accurate miter than my bandsaw:

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-4-x-6-3-4-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw/g0622

the band saw is fine for what it is but its slow to cut.

the new saw shipped today so when the truck shows up pics will be posted!
You will enjoy the new saw.

We had a cold saw like that at school. The first time I used it I broke the blade on it.... A good dose of duh huh...

Unlike a band saw the cold saw doesnt tolerate a piece being cut to move. The piece I was cutting jumped up out of the vice and bound up the blade. Instant carneige. I have had a piece come out of the vise on my Ellis band saw and the head would just jump up away from the pieces without breaking the saw blade. Scares the heck out of you but it survives. Miter cutting abilities is why I bought my Ellis 1600 band saw. It cuts 45 degrees either right or left. The head rotates so you never have to fight adjusting the vice to the desired angle. I always cut to the right because the vice is on the left as is the feed table. It has been a great saw for my purposes. Ellis makes horizontal band saws that will miter cut up to 60 degrees in either right or left cuts.
 
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#3
your ellis is a massive piece of equipment, i like the capacities, 10" round! a local supplier has this old scotchman cold saw they let me use when i'm buying stock. i got hooked on it and never thought about a big band saw. i bought a mill from precision mathews and the service and tech support is outstanding so i figured i would try out one of there cold saws. the truck is stuck in philly, so maybe tomorrow!
 
#4
I liked the one that I used at school. It did great and did have a small footprint. My only complaint was that it was messy until I made a "squeegey" for the wet side of the blade. It keep all the splatter from being thrown off the front of the blade. I will see if I can get Steve to send me a pic of it. You might want to add one to the new saw. Kept the floor a lot cleaner. I did learn that swinging it back to the 90 degree position was not 90 degrees with it against the stop. I always set it with the square. The young guys never checked it and moved it regularly.

I had owned my Ellis 10 years when I went to school and used the cold saw there. Had never used one or been around one until then. 10" round will fit in my Ellis BUT it aint no fun... And you are correct it does have a huge foot print. My metal rack is right behind the saw. Makes it easy to set a piec of steel off the rack onto the feed table. The 2 combined take up almost a full stall sized area. 20" by 12" Not to mention the occasional 24" stick of steel...
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#5
On my end, to get pieces of metal off other pieces of metal, I typically use a cheap electric 4-1/2" angle grinder with a cut-off disc, a Sioux pneumatic die-grinder with a cut-off wheel, an electric die-grinder with cut-off wheel, Black and Decker Wizard multi-tool with cut-off wheel, hacksaw, Makita reciprocating saw, or Black and Decker jigsaw. Depending on the material or situation... I am thinking about trying one of those reasonably-priced plasma cutters I see on Amazon someday though, as I miss having access to one of those on occasion.
 
#6
IMAG0062.jpg
8:30AM the truck arrives two hours ahead of schedule.

IMAG0063.jpg
The Saw is off-loaded.

IMAG0064.jpg
Down the driveway it comes.

IMAG0065.jpg
This is my neighbor John. His Kubota has forks, mine doesnt......


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Still palletized, waiting for the snow storm to end.

Nothing is more satisfying than having a toy delivered in a 28' box truck.
 
#8
ARGH!!!! no blade. this happens every time to me when i buy a new toy. the saw supplier had
to order a blade so i told him just issue me a credit for the blade and i will order one. ended up
going with two blades from coldsawshop.com, the guy was helpful and they make the blades in
their own shop out of USA made m2 hss. he even showed me the finished blades he made that
day. he sends ups tracking, very responsive! tracking told me this morning the truck is DELAYED
due to a snow storm between new york and california and no delivery date can be given.

can't win!
 

desert rat

Well-Known Member
#10
ARGH!!!! no blade. this happens every time to me when i buy a new toy. the saw supplier had
to order a blade so i told him just issue me a credit for the blade and i will order one. ended up
going with two blades from coldsawshop.com, the guy was helpful and they make the blades in
their own shop out of USA made m2 hss. he even showed me the finished blades he made that
day. he sends ups tracking, very responsive! tracking told me this morning the truck is DELAYED
due to a snow storm between new york and california and no delivery date can be given.

can't win!
Can't blame it on California weather, Sorry Mid westerners this ones on ya'all.
 
#15
got the cold saw off the pallet and mounted to the base. the mighty kubota was instrumental. had to fit the saw between the mill and surface grinder, i got lucky when i plopped down the surface grinder, just enough clearance.

the saw is sitting in the middle of the room. maybe tomorrow i can get the hoist in there and set it where it will be. then i need to run 220 vac single phase to it.

IMAG0121.jpg

got a set of pallet forks for the mighty kubota, makes things a whole lot easier!
IMAG0122.jpg

:D
 
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#16
so i finally had the weather to finish up the cold saw. i mounted the 120 tooth 315mm blade from coldsawshop.com it is a M2 hss blade with a bw tooth style.

i've used a coldsaw before but never mounted a blade. google provided a few stories about shattered blades that had dirt under the blade and hub giving it a tiny wobble. time to measure blade runout before cutting anything.

so i grabbed my dial indicator on a noga mount and slapped it in place

IMAG0135.jpg

not good, the dial indicator mount has that screw that is used to zero the dial. i just can't seem to get a stable zero anywhere with this thing except on the lathe. so i switched over to a dial test indicator.

IMAG0137.jpg

there we go, a nice stable measurement. tapping the base or indicator doesnt give a different zero. time to scrap the dial indicators....

as soon as i get power hooked i will run the motor and see what the runout is.
 
#17
Last time my zero was jumping around a little, I tightened the tiny screws on the back of the dial indicator and that fixed it. A dial indicator should not jump if it is solidly mounted.
Just IME.
Glad you got it sorted, that saw is bad ass
 
#19
Phil, I think you better go with turning it by hand, using the motor could cause vibration that will confuse the actual reading.
the gear head has a 70:1 worm gear so it has to be driven from the motor. I have a vfd that might be able to drive the blade slow enough for a decent reading.
 
#20
a bad solder joint in the trigger switch prevented the saw motor and coolant motor from switching on. a little debugging and soldering fixed the issue and the saw is up an running.

by jogging the motor i found two run out zeroes about 180 degrees apart. the run out was +- .005" as the blade was mounted. i have a video, pm me if you want me to send it, i cant post it here.
 

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