Older Briggs Flywheel Removal

#1
Hi all,

I know it's not a minibike, but I just got a small chipper in my hands, which has no spark. It's probably the points, but to get at them, I have to remove the flywheel.

For reference, here are the numbers off of the flywheel cover:

Model: 130902

Type: 0372-01

Code: 73032206

I attached a photo of the situation.

How do I go about removing the flywheel? I really only work on chainsaw's, so I'm a little bit out of my element.

Thanks in advance for any replies,

Bryan
 

chip

New Member
#2
Without the proper Briggs flywheel removal tool, use a hammer and knock loose the large nut/recoil assembly. Then use a brass hammer and lightly whack the end of the crankshaft, the flywheel will glide right off. a puller is not nessesary. Do not use a steel hammer on the crank or you will mushroom the end and not be able to get the nut back on. Upon re-assembly, make sure to lightly grease the end of the crank so the recoil will not squeel once the motor is started. Hope this helps.
 
#3
Without the proper Briggs flywheel removal tool, use a hammer and knock loose the large nut/recoil assembly. Then use a brass hammer and lightly whack the end of the crankshaft, the flywheel will glide right off. a puller is not nessesary. Do not use a steel hammer on the crank or you will mushroom the end and not be able to get the nut back on. Upon re-assembly, make sure to lightly grease the end of the crank so the recoil will not squeel once the motor is started. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Regarding knocking the recoil assembly loose, do you recommend hitting it from above or the side? Also, would it be best to utilize a brass hammer for this as well? For now, I've shot up the area pretty well with PB Blaster, after a few taps with a ball peen I was getting nowhere, so I'll let the chemicals do some work for the time being.

Thanks again,

Bryan
 
#5
No spark 5 hp new member also

Have wizard roto tiller with 5 hp 1970 engine.
Same problem. no spark.
Replaced the points and condenser years ago. Worked fine then.
Engine has not been started in 10 years.
Tried 5 years ago, no go, did not need, so ----
Now- maybe 10 hrs on points and condenser (look like new) from 12 year ago replacement. Also did carb and new fuel tank.
Now 2690 ohms between sparkplug wire end and bare wire bolted to coil on left above flywheel.
Gap is good.
Flywheel pin had sheared and flywheel was about 3/8 inch away from key.
Rotated sheared key 90 degrees, reassembled, carb cleaner in carb no start.
Will try at dark to verify no spark.
Have seen conflicting opinions on comp check, but thought I will do one tomorrow anyway.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Tom
 
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